Unwilling to accept the data, staying with 2-3k oil changes

It's great to share your opinions. But again, it depends on the application. As an example - European vehicles that has higher oil capacity reserve and using an oil that is ACEA C2 and above can easily handle 10K OCI without harm.
 
I too am opting on the side of caution. Hyundai doesn't exactly have the best reputation for their engine longevity, so I'm going to try my luck with taking extra good care of mine to see how it turns out. Every 3K (started at 200, 1,000, then 3,000) the Forte will get the best of the Walmart synthetics (working my way through a case of Pennzoil Ultra Platinum right now) and Kia filters. If something happens to this engine, I have a clear conscience and more than enough documentation for warranty.
Just don't expect shortened OCIs to fix poor engine engineering and soft, cheap engine parts.
Yes, we will both witness extended years and tens of thousands of miles more, since nasty, carbonated, sludged and diluted oils - along with maximum OCIs recommended by the inept manufacturer, contribute mostly to an early Hyunkia engine death.

Keep the dipstick synthetic oil at full, clean and changed often - inside of 4k. Always try to use 1-2 oil grades thicker than what the oil cap states. Then enjoy your prolonged use subpar, Korean engine for a much longer time than what most minimum maintenance owners enjoy.
 
The head engineer for the Nissan GTR advocates 2000 mile oil changes for his car and all cars if you want to get maximum engine protection. I can't support or disprove his claim but that is it, there is a video out there with the statement they make.
I saw that video, 100% verified. I could see in such a monster car as a GTR, that that OCI interval would be good.......why not.....its not like you are going for long drain for $ concerns or whatever. You have a performance car, really a racecar on the street, special considerations should be made.
 
The only problem with this is oil goes bad. It’s additive package breaks down and thus becomes ineffective

Outdated & discounted oil, even if it’s a quality brand, becomes subpar..
 
The only problem with this is oil goes bad. It’s additive package breaks down and thus becomes ineffective

Outdated & discounted oil, even if it’s a quality brand, becomes subpar..
Do you have a study or a source to verify, validate, or accredit that sealed oil degrades? I have heard discussions on the subject, but have never come across a study or other accredited information on the subject.
 
Sequence VH is run on a Ford 4.6L 2V Modular. This is a 216hr test, for 216hrs to equal 3,000 miles for example, that's an average vehicle speed of 13.9 mph, 5,000 miles, 23.15 mph.

The Modular is not exactly what I would call "hard on oil", and a pass does not require pristine oil control rings or lands.

This, above, is a great example of how we shouldn't make blanket statements regarding oils, as if lubes are a one-size-fits-all product. Any one particular situation may or may not require a specific lube property or benefit.

*************************


The following is my opinion; others may or may not agree. That's OK... BITOGers are not required to agree; only to be civil.

Some engines are very, very easy on oil. Some are not. Those which are easy on lube tend to have lower power-to-displacement ratios. Those which are hard on lube tend to have higher power density. We could run a long list of engines that are easy on oil and will last a very long time. We could also run a long list of engines that are hard on lubes and tend to be trouble-prone in long-term operation.

It can't be a coincidence that many of today's modern, high-tech engines seem to have issues, or at the very least require a very robust lube just to survive. Whereas the engines of yesteryear glide by with inexpensive lubes and yet run for multiples of hundreds of thousands of miles without issue.

Ford, in particular, seems to be the king of making examples of the two extremes. I cannot think of a Ford engine in the last 40 years that didn't tend to be very, very reliable, or very, very trouble prone. There is nothing they made that falls into the "good but not great" category. They either made a fantastic or a terrible engine depending on what you bought. I've seen (literally) thousands of UOAs and dozens of anecdotal high-mileage stories of the Modular 2v engines, as well as the Cyclone v-6 family; these are outstanding engines. Contrast those to the horrors of the Modular 3v variants and the EB engines (especially the 4yl units); no further explanations are required.

Yes - anyone can point to a singular example of a success or failure; something they owned or someone they knew of. But engine stereotypes exist for a reason.

I believe the key to engine reliability lies in the power-to-displacement factor. If you have an engine that is full of technology and high-power density, you're gonna need the best lube you can afford to run if you want any hope of making it last a long time. And even then, lubricants cannot overcome poor engineering and shoddy manufacturing issues.

If you want a cockroach on wheels, go get a Panther 4.6L 2v, or maybe a GM 3800 FWD car. Drive them into Armageddon using house brand oils every 10k miles ... it literally won't matter.
 
If I were to go with the 3k OCI I would be crawling underneath my car up to 9 times a year changing my oil every 5 1/2 weeks.
Same here, I would end up changing my Civic’s oil 7 or 8 times and my Corvette’s oil 3 times. And I live in a condo, so I have to drive to my father’s place to do oil changes.

With 9-10k intervals on the Civic and 7k intervals on the Vette it saves me a lot of time and money.
 
Do you have a study or a source to verify, validate, or accredit that sealed oil degrades? I have heard discussions on the subject, but have never come across a study or other accredited information on the subject.
1741616993581.webp
 
Your oil stash is so big, you literally blew a trailer tire out moving it. That is awesome.

After getting a couple of oil analysis done, I have moved from 5k oil changes to 3k oil changes on my 2004 Tahoe. I live in a small town and make several short trips per day. My drive to to work is under 4 miles. Most of my drives are less than 10 min.
 
I am actually thinking the exact opposite. If VRP doesn’t fix the ( quart every 2500 miles ) oil consumption issues with one of our cars, I am only going to change it once a year since I end up replacing the entire sump between oil changes ( I will still change the oil filter when it’s due ) anyways.

That car has only run on Amsoil SS and HPL until trying 4 oil changes with VRP.

No way I would change my oil once a month.
 
Last edited:
I settled in at 5,000 miles which for my main vehicle happened to match two changes per year.
If a traditional MPI engine using synthetic 5 qrt. or larger oil sump with 60% Interstate / Highway driving - then yes . If a GDI engine using synthetic oil with 40% Interstate / Highway driving - then no and I’m backing off to a severe schedule 3,750 to 4,000 mile OCI (unless I’m just itching to try VR&P) .
 
Back
Top Bottom