Toyota genuine motor oil?

I have a few questions ...
- what is "drag"?
- how does it "set in"?
- how is that "set in" measured?
- why is 5k too much but 4k is "safe"?
Do you think humans cannot sense things on a very small scale. Especially in a vibration box like a Corolla(or Matrix)?

First a language thing, since you seem to doubt the existence of "drag" completely. Drag in all of its senses, indicates an interfering, opposing "force" or action against something. Can be physical, or mental, monetary, psychological "opposition" to whatever is desired.

Oil literally exists to reduce friction between metals. That friction makes a lot of things. Noise, vibration, heat, decreased "ease" of motion.

It's not like it's fiction. It's friction between metals being reduced by an oil+additives. This continuously decreases during the use of the oil. And the slight increases in friction makes the engine struggle ever so slightly with old oil compared to a fresh fill.

It's just that validating and authenticating a slight increase in the coefficient of friction between surfaces in an entire engine with used motor oil requires considerable specialized equipment to test such that a regular person cannot validate it.

The specimen remains in the family's possession right now. It was bought new in 2007 and timely cared for on the essentials like oil and transmission fluid.
 
A now banned poster who said he was a formulator posted years ago that Japanese formulations tended to have high moly levels in what he wrote was a misguided approach to improved fuel economy.
Who knows?
Another poster who I no longer see here worshiped what he identified as the superior properties of TGMO and even came up with his own mathematical formula to prove it.
Once again, who knows?

 
Do you think humans cannot sense things on a very small scale. Especially in a vibration box like a Corolla(or Matrix)?

First a language thing, since you seem to doubt the existence of "drag" completely. Drag in all of its senses, indicates an interfering, opposing "force" or action against something. Can be physical, or mental, monetary, psychological "opposition" to whatever is desired.

Oil literally exists to reduce friction between metals. That friction makes a lot of things. Noise, vibration, heat, decreased "ease" of motion.

It's not like it's fiction. It's friction between metals being reduced by an oil+additives. This continuously decreases during the use of the oil. And the slight increases in friction makes the engine struggle ever so slightly with old oil compared to a fresh fill.

It's just that validating and authenticating a slight increase in the coefficient of friction between surfaces in an entire engine with used motor oil requires considerable specialized equipment to test such that a regular person cannot validate it.

The specimen remains in the family's possession right now. It was bought new in 2007 and timely cared for on the essentials like oil and transmission fluid.
Friction is the least of your concerns with just about any motor oil.
 
Friction is the least of your concerns with just about any motor oil.
It becomes a concern the older it gets. Or are you intentionally being obtuse here?
That's not the point. It's when it's noticeable that the wear protection has deteriorated. For the Toyota's 5w-30 dino, it's not optimal to run it past 4k.
 
It becomes a concern the older it gets. Or are you intentionally being obtuse here?
That's not the point. It's when it's noticeable that the wear protection has deteriorated. For the Toyota's 5w-30 dino, it's not optimal to run it past 4k.
So you are claiming that at the driver’s seat you detect a friction increase that’s due to wear protection being depleted?

Okay sure.
 
I think using Toyota Genuine Motor oil helps those who are worried about using 0W-16 or 0W-8 oil to get past their fear,
and feel re-assured that if it says "Toyota" on the oil container, it must be ok regardless of the ridiculously thin viscosity.
 
Unfortunately I purchased prepaid maintenance up to 85K on my 2024 Tundra. Will not go 10K per requirements. So I’ll do 5K with EP and 5K with Toyota oil. I’ll do one and Toyota will do the other.
 
Unfortunately I purchased prepaid maintenance up to 85K on my 2024 Tundra. Will not go 10K per requirements. So I’ll do 5K with EP and 5K with Toyota oil. I’ll do one and Toyota will do the other.
That's what many of us do here at BITOG. As a plus, we really never have to buy an oil filter during that warranty protection period. At OCI, I get out the Fluid Extractor -pump it up and go have a sandwich for 10-15 minutes.
Using the same filter twice is nowadays often recommended anyways.
 
That's what many of us do here at BITOG. As a plus, we really never have to buy an oil filter during that warranty protection period. At OCI, I get out the Fluid Extractor -pump it up and go have a sandwich for 10-15 minutes.
Using the same filter twice is nowadays often recommended anyways.
I may reuse the same filter after I do the 5K change. I did a 1700 mile change. At 5K I’m going to filter the drained oil. As long as no metal is present. These 3.4LTT’s at least the 22-23’s will soon be having engines changed. My build date is 5/24 so I’m hoping to be in the clear. I do like the extraction idea.
 
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