Factory fill for Camaro (LFX engine) was Dexos approved blend. Interesting eh?
Yes, exactly. The Bigger Picture. For example, oxidation over those miles and what leaves on the inside of the engine. Good example is if you change your oil/filter. Then change just the filter at 5k, with topoff as needed and keep that filter, then change the oil and filter at 10k. Now look at the insides of both of those oil filters. That second one will be more contaminated. You may even see the oil get cleaner on the dipstick right after that second filter change, but it darkens up pretty quick!
I’ve actually thought about using esp 0w30 in my Acadia. It’s not D1, but I think based on my knowledge it’s probably better. Thoughts? Plus, I could use one oil in both my VW and GMC.
Mostly underwhelming to be honest.
Interesting, I never said there's a check for moisture. Maybe you're just misunderstanding. I'm not technically "new here" though I don't see why that would be a point used to discredit someone's opinion. I did check some UOA's and couldn't find one with TAN numbers. Anywho...nice chatting with you!
It was surprising to see that's what's used. But it also had me recalling my chats with oil engineers saying, essentially, there's benefits to adding even a quart of M1 to conventional oil changes. Still, not worth not doing full sync changes right? We're talking a few bucks these days between blend and full synth.
It does blur the lines between todays syn blends and “full synthetics”. Back in the Tri Syn days doing SBC intakes at 300k that looked new inside was eye opening compared to conventional or blend.
Right on! Oxidation is another untold part of the story…. It’s just not directly documented no matter how hard you look at the UOA!!!
Oxidation is listed on the UOA report from many labs actually
You are, of course correct, although I have never gotten it on oil analyses I have run, nor have I heard people say that they had a great UOA, except for heavy oxidation numbers. I think we would all agree that oxidized oil, or oil suspected of being oxidized, should be replaced.
Absolutely! Although I would be willing to bet that many people here don’t even come close to running their oil to the point where it’s badly oxidized. And when looking at the UOA, high oxidation numbers are not a reason to immediately condemn the oil. It’s the amount of oxidation change from the virgin number of that oil to what it’s at now. Oils with more esters in the base oil will show higher virgin oxidation numbers.
Yup, this is important with oils with ester content, as they tend to have high virgin oxidation numbers.
Varnish? Meh…
I've replaced, revived, or cleaned enough faulty Toyota/Lexus VVTi solenoids, and Honda/Acura VTEC solenoids, to know that varnish is not harmless. It is also what causes stuck piston rings, and then heavy carbon buildup just solidifies the deal.
All the 2uz-fe’s in Afghanistan running on conventional for 300k plus miles don’t agree. Nor do all the crown Vic’s running off bulk conventional in the ny taxi fleet running 400k miles
Multiple J35, K20, K24, R18, 2JZ, 2AZ, 1NZ, 1UZ, and 1ZZ engines got a thing or twelve to say in agreement to my initial comment. Because that's the engines I personally had to repair or replace those solenoids on. And on some the solenoids we're fine, but the pre-solenoid mesh filter was clogged, and so on.
