To all you Xw-20 doubters out there…

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I hope you do realize that past data points obtained on non-GDI Honda engine design can not be assumed to be true in the new design Honda GDI engine. Not only GDI that is new, they are using different style of pistons that are lighter and have smaller skirt. The Honda/Toyota engines from early 2000 could run on conventional oil for 500K miles.
 
I hope you do realize that past data points obtained on non-GDI Honda engine design can not be assumed to be true in the new design Honda GDI engine. Not only GDI that is new, they are using different style of pistons that are lighter and have smaller skirt. The Honda/Toyota engines from early 2000 could run on conventional oil for 500K miles.
In the 18 page thread that was linked, there are two posters that are on a journey to 1 million miles. Both guys are couriers. The older Accord with the non direct injected V6 is on his original engine doing 15,000 mile OCI’s with 5W20 (Mobil1). The other guy has an earth dreams GDI engine, he’s on his second engine, the first one didn’t make it much past 300,000 miles. He didn’t mention his oil change history (unless I missed it). And his vehicle is now sitting at around 600,000 miles.
 
My Honda 2.0t engine runs with high gas dilution (3-4%). I am skeptical it has the same reliability as older makes.
See the other thread here where a civic with a 1.5 is at 250K in a year. The 1.5 is even worse than the 2.0

in any case......

Without a complete history and a full leak down mileage "accomplishments" are meaningless.
 
Regarding that (close to) million mile Accord — the kid is down to five cylinders and he’s been running with a completely dead cylinder for 30,000 miles or so, with 30,000 more miles to go to reach 1,000,000 miles. Then he plans to drop an engine in it. I think that would be a record - driving 60,000 miles with a dead cylinder - pretty interesting journey this guy has been on with this car.

The dead cylinder (zero compression) is from a burnt valve.
 
If an engine isn't stressed, or overpowered, and the driving style isn't stressful, then any engine can go million miles.

I worked for a company with a fleet and vehicle trade-in time was 4 years with typically 1 million miles. And, many engines didn't get anything but normal maintenance with nothing special bulk conventional 15w40.

Love to see how many GDI-T engines will be around after 10 years of usage from now with all the fuel dilution, oil consumption, ....

I sure will miss the V6's.
 
Personally not worried about 20 weight oil. As long as that is what the manufacturer calls for. Forced intake would be a different ball game. Always a better 20 weight oil but for price and the rebate PUP 0w-20 is hard to beat IMO.
 
Personally not worried about 20 weight oil. As long as that is what the manufacturer calls for. Forced intake would be a different ball game. Always a better 20 weight oil but for price and the rebate PUP 0w-20 is hard to beat IMO.
But what about Ford back specking my '93 F150 to 5w-20 when the sticker under the hood (and OM) says 10w-30? Is that OK? I really need to know.
 
An engine opersting at a stabilized operating temperature has virtually no wear.


You got that right CT8.... 95 percent plus of the 320,000 miles on my Nissan Altima VQ were highway cruising miles at 50-79 mph. Easy as one can get.
 
Regarding that (close to) million mile Accord — the kid is down to five cylinders and he’s been running with a completely dead cylinder for 30,000 miles or so, with 30,000 more miles to go to reach 1,000,000 miles. Then he plans to drop an engine in it. I think that would be a record - driving 60,000 miles with a dead cylinder - pretty interesting journey this guy has been on with this car.

The dead cylinder (zero compression) is from a burnt valve.
BTDT.. You can run on 5 or as I once said "Five and a half" cylinders for.. awhile. It will sometimes stall out at an idle and under load sometimes (AC on) but yeah, burnt valve... "Five and a half" would be your "poor cylinder contribution." if the usual plugs/wires/coil parts-change fix for that part of it doesn't do it, you've likely got engine problems (since timing or valve issues usually aren't good. Lifter if you're lucky.) One of the Honda forums is less than stellar.. I won't comment further but, as long as linked thread isn't a troll (by that forum.)

Now if it is ZERO compression.. I cant imagine that injector is still firing? Is he driving it around with the injector unplugged and a CEL on for TRUE 5 cylinder operation in a 6 cylinder engine? I would be very very concerned about fuel dilution if that were not the case, and even if it was and I would wonder if his oil level is rising not falling with use as a result.

It's not the best thing.

Thin oil could also be contributing to great compression numbers if the engine is just clean, running like a top, rings in good shape the belief as far as I know is that thicker oil is better when rings are sticking and not creating a great seal against the cylinder wall, however... perhaps thin oil can stop that from happening in the first place? There are always different schools of thought.. could it be it makes no difference?

20 vs 30 grade... vs everything else..
 
BTDT.. You can run on 5 or as I once said "Five and a half" cylinders for.. awhile. It will sometimes stall out at an idle and under load sometimes (AC on) but yeah, burnt valve... "Five and a half" would be your "poor cylinder contribution." if the usual plugs/wires/coil parts-change fix for that part of it doesn't do it, you've likely got engine problems (since timing or valve issues usually aren't good. Lifter if you're lucky.) One of the Honda forums is less than stellar.. I won't comment further but, as long as linked thread isn't a troll (by that forum.)

Now if it is ZERO compression.. I cant imagine that injector is still firing? Is he driving it around with the injector unplugged and a CEL on for TRUE 5 cylinder operation in a 6 cylinder engine? I would be very very concerned about fuel dilution if that were not the case, and even if it was and I would wonder if his oil level is rising not falling with use as a result.

It's not the best thing.

Thin oil could also be contributing to great compression numbers if the engine is just clean, running like a top, rings in good shape the belief as far as I know is that thicker oil is better when rings are sticking and not creating a great seal against the cylinder wall, however... perhaps thin oil can stop that from happening in the first place? There are always different schools of thought.. could it be it makes no difference?

20 vs 30 grade... vs everything else..
It’s a total dead cylinder, zero compression, burnt valve. He gets his flashing check engine light (cat damaging fuel scenario). He’s replaced his cats once. When he pulls the spark plug it is showing the usual carbon fuel fouled look. He says the car runs poorly, he’s had a drop in fuel economy, but he’s managing to push it along for 60,000 miles now like that.

I don’t think he’s disconnected his fuel injector, but he probably should. He may have, and I just missed it, but I don’t think so. In fact, before he finally decided to have a mechanic check compression, he tried all sorts of fuel cleaners/injector cleaners, and even considered replacing an injector. Only to discover that it was a burnt valve/zero compression. He just wants to get the original engine over the million miles finish line, and I hope he does. It’s a interesting thread he has, and an extensive documentation of repairs along the way.
 
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