Guy goes a million miles on group lll synthetics doing 15,000 mile intervals.

ARCOgraphite said:
Not a Honda fanboy, but solid cams can provide better power and Honda's VTEC design works will with SOHC or DOHC with roller rockers and jam nut adjusters. This assures proper valve action with quick opening ramps regardless of oil viscosity.

The Subaru used a similar valvetrain on their EJ253 engine with their own version of VTEC they trademarked as AVLS.

That economy Subaru 2.5 litre made more power than the 1984 4bbl H.O 5.0 L. V8 Foxbody.
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On a high revving engine like in the S2000 or motorcycle engines, yes that would be a good trade off, but Hondas pedestrian engines don’t make impressive numbers vs the competition.

That design is just a poor choice for their commuter engines IMO.
 
KrisZ said:
I can’t really think of any other car manufacturer recommending valve adjustments besides Honda.

One would think they would’ve figured it out by now given how the internet portrays Honda as the “engine builder”.
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Cummins.

Solid valvetrain has some advantages
 
The guy had the skill to keep his car going. Heck I'm impressed. No sure how the valve seat handled the broken valve. Personally, if I had enough skills I'd stick in another valve, some seals, gaskets, and a new timing belt and get it back on the road.
 
KrisZ said:
On a high revving engine like in the S2000 or motorcycle engines, yes that would be a good trade off, but Hondas pedestrian engines don’t make impressive numbers vs the competition.

That design is just a poor choice for their commuter engines IMO.
Click to expand...
How 'bout the prev gen Nissan and Toyota workhorse 4 bangers with shim under bucket solid DOHC. That VT may be more stable, but if you have to adjust lash the cam box has to come apart, I noticed when they went to 0W20 they went with stationary HLA with finger followers. Makes you think is a mid saps 20 grade to skinny for the aggressive ramps on direct acting cams?

I feel your pain with some cars with adjustable rockers, I wanted to to check lash on my Honda Fit, but the engine was under the windscreen overhang. Nothing like on an old 80's Mitsubishi Colt where the valve cover was up front in the bay and staring at you when you popped open the hood.
 
ARCOgraphite said:
How 'bout the prev gen Nissan and Toyota workhorse 4 bangers with shim under bucket solid DOHC. That VT may be more stable, but if you have to adjust lash the cam box has to come apart, I noticed when they went to 0W20 they went with stationary HLA with finger followers. Makes you think is a mid saps 20 grade to skinny for the aggressive ramps on direct acting cams?

I feel your pain with some cars with adjustable rockers, I wanted to to check lash on my Honda Fit, but the engine was under the windscreen overhang. Nothing like on an old 80's Mitsubishi Colt where the valve cover was up front in the bay and staring at you when you popped open the hood.
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That’s a good point. Honda has been one of the early 5w20 weight adopters and perhaps noticed their setup is more tolerant to the loss of HTHS so they just stayed with it?
 
I just lost a whole post.

Ahhh ok. Let me make it again...

doublebase said:
You have a point there: most of use aren’t putting 200-300 miles a day on our cars going up and down the highway at 75 mph for hours on end. That is an advantage (one would think), and an easier life for an engine/and oil.

Although on the flip side, lately I seem to be reading a lot of posts about high speed highway driving and increased oil consumption. But still, it’s an easy way to accumulate a lot of miles very quickly.
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most of use aren’t putting 200-300 miles a day on our cars going up and down the highway at 75 mph for hours on end.
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I do do that quite a bit in the Taurus. And that has 5W-20 in it (an ILSAC GF-6a) and has ~11,000 miles on present OCI. Doesn't use a drop of oil, either. Shall I get a UOA and share it....

The other vehicle? Well, the OM says to use 5W-30 and I think I've shown that the whole "Use a 5W-20 in a 5W-30 app" isn't always... wise....
Click to expand...

I do do that quite a bit in the Taurus. And that has 5W-20 in it (an ILSAC GF-6a) and has ~11,000 miles on present OCI. Doesn't use a drop of oil, either. Shall I get a UOA and share it....

The other vehicle? Well, the OM says to use 5W-30 and I think I've shown that the whole "Use a 5W-20 in a 5W-30 app" isn't always... wise....
 
Bullet said:
No sure how the valve seat handled the broken valve. Personally, if I had enough skills I'd stick in another valve, some seals, gaskets, and a new timing belt and get it back on the road.
Click to expand...
People are saying it's a "broken valve" but I think it's actually a burned valve. A gap appears between the valve and the valve seat when the lifter gets too tight and escaping exhaust gases burn a hole along the edge of the valve and probably on the valve seat as well. Simple as that.

In the old days we would take that head (both heads usually) to a machine shop and have it/them rebuilt. I'm not a machinist but I think they replaced some of the valves, reground the valve seats (machined in an insert first if a valve seat was burned), knurled the valve guides and replaced the valve guide seals. As good as new. I probably don't have that process exactly right but I'm sure someone will correct it.

My dad used to "grind the valves" himself on a low power, low rpm agricultural tractor engine using grinding compound and rotating the valve in the valve seat using a tool similar to an old fashioned toy arrow that stuck onto the face of the valve.
 
I use 0W20 in the Camrys because it is recommended. I feel like I'm driving around without a good spare. I have anecdotal evidence that 20W50 oil protected bearing journals and inserts during a catastrophic overheat resulting in a warped head,and a detonated through piston. I bought a hulk for the head , piston and rod assembly and re-used the original rod bearing because it was shiny and smooth. Drove the Datsun pickup another 50K miles til the twins arrived and I needed a station wagon. Somehow, I don't think that OHC Datsun 1.6 wouldn't have run as long with 0W20 in it. :cool:
 
Slow Car Sport Mode said:
I just lost a whole post.

Ahhh ok. Let me make it again...





I do do that quite a bit in the Taurus. And that has 5W-20 in it (an ILSAC GF-6a) and has ~11,000 miles on present OCI. Doesn't use a drop of oil, either. Shall I get a UOA and share it....

The other vehicle? Well, the OM says to use 5W-30 and I think I've shown that the whole "Use a 5W-20 in a 5W-30 app" isn't always... wise....
Click to expand...
Yeah, share that. I’d like to see how it’s doing.
 
SavetheRimBrake said:
But I thought engines running x20 were only designed for a 150k mile lifespan. But I thought x20 was no good for the heat. But I thought it was only for CAFE and detrimental to the customer. But I thought x20 hasn’t been around long enough to know.

But what I’m definitely sure of is it it WAS running x30 it would have made it to 3 million miles
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I don't think 20 weights are good for long OCI especially in severe service conditions.....
I am super curious to see what comes of 0w16 oils, just not enough vehicles on the road yet
 
Not quibbling but I have a stash of Mobil 1 5W-20, I don't think it is just Group III. There is more than likely some PAO and AN in there as well...
 
SavetheRimBrake said:
Ahh good ol valve lapping. I did this on my BP4W head when it was all apart and I was reshimming the head.
Click to expand...
you can also chuck the valve stem in a drill motor,with valve in place in head, use double sided emery paper and lapping compound and do a custom hi speed valve job. :)
 
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