Guy goes a million miles on group lll synthetics doing 15,000 mile intervals.

None of the Honda international manuals I found show this, even in the UK. It just shows 0w-20 and Honda type 2.0 which is factory fill 0w-20.

I can’t pull Toyota manuals on the computer I have now, but the ones that do give the option do it for high load and speed, which almost none of the thickies are achieving
You also mentioned Toyota, so I provided a Toyota example, since I knew they still used that verbiage.

You snarked "welcome to 2023", and yes, here we are in 2023 with that same verbiage in Toyota manuals 🤷‍♂️
Screenshot 2023-07-25 152458.jpg
 
Owners manual calls for thin oil: “stupid manufacturer doesn’t care about the consumer and build cars only to last to ___ miles”
Same vehicle manual from another country gives option of thicker oil: “what a wise manufacturer, much prudence”

BITOG
 
Owners manual calls for thin oil: “stupid manufacturer doesn’t care about the consumer and build cars only to last to ___ miles”
Same vehicle manual from another country gives option of thicker oil: “what a wise manufacturer, much prudence”

BITOG
This has become your mantra.

Do you feel that everyone is against you?
 
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An Accord 6/6 is a bucket list car for me.

Honda J30s have always been an impressive engine to me. So , so , so smooth with nice power delivery. And the 7th gen Accords drive so nice. Too bad they switched to struts in the front for the 8th generation.
The 8th generation still has double-wishbone suspension. The 9th gen switched to MacPherson.
 
I have questioned Mobil Tech a couple of times(last time maybe 5 years ago) and they assured me all M1 badged oils are considered Grp 4. With the results I have had all these years with M1 at 10K OCIs, I don't doubt it. Now Mobil synthetic is a Grp 3. With all this said, no oils are of one base stock, but a combination of base stocks.
 
I have questioned Mobil Tech a couple of times(last time maybe 5 years ago) and they assured me all M1 badged oils are considered Grp 4. With the results I have had all these years with M1 at 10K OCIs, I don't doubt it. Now Mobil synthetic is a Grp 3. With all this said, no oils are of one base stock, but a combination of base stocks.
I use Mobil1 but I don’t consider it a group lV oil - when Mobil1 says all their oils are considered group lV, considered by who? Mobil1? And if no oils are made of one base stock (I agree with), why wouldn’t regular Mobil synthetic be considered a group lV by them (if they’re the ones that are determining when an oil becomes a group lV)?

My understanding is that Mobil1 is a group lll synthetic, and that Mobil1 EP 0W20 used to have around 70% PAO, but has now been reformulated, reducing the amount of PAO to under 30%. All their other weights in the EP lineup have almost no PAO. I think I’ve read that their 0W16 has some group lV base stocks and their euro formula 0W40, but that’s all that I know of.

I guess what I’m asking is, what determines an oil to be a group lll synthetic and what is considered a group lV synthetic, outside of Mobil1 saying it is? I thought the American Petroleum Institute considers a group lV base stock to be 100% PAO, but I could be wrong.
 
View attachment 168780I guess 6000-7500 oci on M1 EP and Amsoil XL. A few 10K runs on Amsoil SS with 127K is doing me no good. I laugh every time someone mentions that video. 2015 Toyota Tacoma 4.0L
Toyota is one of the few who use a roller chain and not a silent chain. The timing chain and ring lands are not related. Watch the video.

I've had many engines apart, and tye 4 square inches you see through the oil fill hole are not indicative of the overall health of the engine. This isn't the old days where oil varnishes in 3000 miles.
 
There are no "100% Group IV base stock oils", so everything is a "blend" from that standpoint.

As far as what percentage of on base stock makes an oil some specific "group" as a finished product, that's not defined. Groups are just that, base stocks, and are used to achieve a specific performance target. Not all Group III base stocks have the same viscosity index and the same level of saturates, so attempting to predict the future performance of the finished product based on the sole criteria of base is pretty impossible. PAO still has an edge in oxidation resistance and severe cold weather performance but again that's not an absolute. It has drawbacks as well as advantages.
 
My first car was an 86 Accord and the book spec for adjusting the valves was 15K miles. I did it dutifully many times.

Yes, I bought the factory service manual from Helms.
I did the same with my '81 Celica. Adjusting the valves (overhead valves with solid lifters) was an annual or alternate year event. And on those simpler engines it wasn't even very hard.

Valves don't need adjustment that often any more but they do need it once in a very long while. And actually adjusting them (not just listening for loose valves) seems to be much harder on these overhead cam engines. I say "seems to be" because I haven't done it on my Accord. And anyway loose valves (while not a good thing) aren't as bad as tight valves.

The general rule is: Intake valves loosen. Exhaust valves tighten. I don't know why that is. Does anyone know?
 
Does anybody know how many times this million mile Accord had it's clutch changed? Just wondering as I drive a manual transmission car.
 
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Does anybody know how many times this million mile Accord had it's clutch changed? Just wondering as I drive a manual transmission car.
I believe he managed to get 280k miles out of the first transmission before replacing it due to a 3rd gear synchro problem, and the first clutch lasted 320,000 miles. Not sure about after that.
 
I believe he managed to get 280k miles out of the first transmission before replacing it due to a 3rd gear synchro problem, and the first clutch lasted 320,000 miles. Not sure about after that.
Interesting that the OE clutch outlasted the actual M/T. The guy obviously knows how to drive a 'stick shift' to get 320K out of a clutch. I'll be happy to get that on my Focus MTX-75. I changed the OE MTF at 26K and it's still shifting nice and smooth at 72K. (I think I remember it getting a bit notchy on the OE by 26K but it hasn't gotten that way since....probably break in swarf)...I'll change it again around 90K.
 
Interesting that the OE clutch outlasted the actual M/T. The guy obviously knows how to drive a 'stick shift' to get 320K out of a clutch. I'll be happy to get that on my Focus MTX-75. I changed the OE MTF at 26K and it's still shifting nice and smooth at 72K. (I think I remember it getting a bit notchy on the OE by 26K but it hasn't gotten that way since....probably break in swarf)...I'll change it again around 90K.
I bet you’ll get many miles out of that thing with careful driving and good maintenance. Best of luck!
 
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I can’t really think of any other car manufacturer recommending valve adjustments besides Honda.

One would think they would’ve figured it out by now given how the internet portrays Honda as the “engine builder”.
Not a Honda fanboy, but solid cams can provide better power and Honda's VTEC design works will with SOHC or DOHC with roller rockers and jam nut adjusters. This assures proper valve action with quick opening ramps regardless of oil viscosity.

The Subaru used a similar valvetrain on their EJ253 engine with their own version of VTEC they trademarked as AVLS.

That economy Subaru 2.5 litre made more power than the 1984 4bbl H.O 5.0 L. V8 Foxbody.
 
The Subaru used a similar valvetrain on their EJ253 engine with their own version of VTEC they trademarked as AVLS.

That economy Subaru 2.5 litre made more power than the 1984 4bbl H.O 5.0 L. V8 Foxbody.
That doesn't seem like a very logical or reasonable comparison, a 1984 smogger V8 vs a 1999 design? The 1999 Ford 4.6L DOHC made 320HP vs the Scoobie's 162HP if we are doing random comparos of the same year. BMW's 5.0L made 400HP. Both V8's use HLA's.
 
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