0W-20 vs 5W-30 synthetics in cold temps

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The main issue with cold start up wear has nothing to do directly with (thick vs. thin) if using quality syn base stocks. It is the acidic compounds that form from the water vapor created as a biproduct of internal combustion; it's something astoundingly never acknowledged here. There isn't a huge difference either way, just like there isn't a huge difference in high temperature wear based on the weight of the oil.
But the alkaline buffers (represented by the TBN) do neutralize any acidic contaminates unless the TBN has reached zero..
 

OVERKILL

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But the alkaline buffers (represented by the TBN) do neutralize any acidic contaminates unless the TBN has reached zero..
Yup. We've gotten into the mechanisms of warm-up wear before. Parts that don't fit right (because they change dimensions when cold), additives that require heat to active, not being active, blow-by being higher, impacting the film on the bores, rings and pistons (and also introducing more contaminants into the pan)...etc. There is a whole series of factors.
 
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well apparently the writings of Dr. Haas on here are known to be outdated and in some cases incorrect. I wasn't aware of that until just now.
Typically, they are seagull posts with not a lot of factual data behind them. They are dropped and rarely revisited to respond to the comments (err...flames) about his "data".
 
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You are overthinking it. Either will be fine. In MN plenty of vehicles use 5W30 and 10W30 conventional and they start and run for long after the body rots apart.
 
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Let me hijack this thread because I have a similar question. Here in Eastern NC we may see a low of 10 degrees in the winter but that is rare. 2013 Nissan Maxima calls for 5w-30, but only 10w-30 is available. (Walmart has the 6qt boxes of Havoline 10w30 but not 5w-30 and they are < $20 box). Great Value :)

Would the 10w30 be fine or even better because of the viscosity spread for this vehicle in this environment?
 
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Because of the threat of global climate change, nobody can be really certain what oil viscosity to use anymore. One day could be -10F in Miami and 80F in Duluth, Mn.

No way to know.

1668095003828.jpg
 
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Because of the threat of global climate change, nobody can be really certain what oil viscosity to use anymore. One day could be -10F in Miami and 80F in Duluth, Mn.

No way to know.
That's not really true. The upper temperature is more or less controlled by the engine operating temperature (especially if there is an oil cooler). Yes, it heats up more than that under certain operating conditions but you can get an idea. All you need is a grade that will retain the HT/HS at that temperature and that's not especially difficult to do. 80F in Duluth is not a problem.

And as for the winter rating you can pick one with a 5W rating for -10F unless you think the temperature is going to go below -30, then use an oil with a 0W rating.

You're probably kidding about not knowing what to use anymore but if one were serious for a moment that's really not the situation at all.
 
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Because of the threat of global climate change, nobody can be really certain what oil viscosity to use anymore. One day could be -10F in Miami and 80F in Duluth, Mn.

No way to know.

View attachment 125424
Your car only has to last about another 10 years before the earth is toast according to some congress people, so your car only needs to last a little longer.
 
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Let me hijack this thread because I have a similar question. Here in Eastern NC we may see a low of 10 degrees in the winter but that is rare. 2013 Nissan Maxima calls for 5w-30, but only 10w-30 is available. (Walmart has the 6qt boxes of Havoline 10w30 but not 5w-30 and they are < $20 box). Great Value :)

Would the 10w30 be fine or even better because of the viscosity spread for this vehicle in this environment?
An oil with a 10W winter rating is appropriate for temperatures above 0F. Below that and down to about -30 use one with a 5W rating. So in your climate the 10W rated oil is acceptable as it will pump at that temperature.
 
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The land of USA-made Subies!
Use either oil. The J35 cares much more about frequency of oil changes than it does viscosity. Keep the PCV clean/changed with OEM as it will cause issues. My old ‘06 Odyssey is still running great at 248k, and it’s had terrible maintenance (WM quick change bulk oil and orange cans at 9-10k intervals) since I sold it to my stepson at 185k. It’s getting heavily varnished now but I’m doing some Hot Shots Stiction Eliminator and maybe a quart of HPL EC so it doesn’t conk out on them.
 
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Your car only has to last about another 10 years before the earth is toast according to some congress people, so your car only needs to last a little longer.
They’ve been spewing this garbage since the 1970s and none of it has come true, so it’s at least 50 more years out. They’ll have outlawed all ICEs by then in certain states, so the ones that are left should have plenty of spare parts 😂
 

cheesepuffs2

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Use either oil. The J35 cares much more about frequency of oil changes than it does viscosity. Keep the PCV clean/changed with OEM as it will cause issues. My old ‘06 Odyssey is still running great at 248k, and it’s had terrible maintenance (WM quick change bulk oil and orange cans at 9-10k intervals) since I sold it to my stepson at 185k. It’s getting heavily varnished now but I’m doing some Hot Shots Stiction Eliminator and maybe a quart of HPL EC so it doesn’t conk out on them.
What OCIs did you do with yours?
 
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I have two jugs in my stash right now.

One SuperTech 0W-20 HM, and one Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 HM.

Engine is a Honda 3.5 V6. Burns a bit of oil, maybe 6/10ths of a quart every 3,000 miles. Car calls for 5W-20.

Mileage is approaching 150,000. I'd like to start running 30 weights for film strength, but with the cold weather almost here (coldest mornings for me are about -10 degrees F. Not crazy cold, but still cold).

That said, I don't want to run the 5W-30 weight in the winter if it's going to induce extra wear as cold start-up over the 0W-20. At those temps though, is there even really a difference in pumpability, or does that really only matter once you start getting to more like -40 degrees with synthetics?
0w30 ?
 
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