thin perhaps not as good as i thought

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Originally Posted By: Trav


The 20w didn't have a high enough VI and you didn't keep your eyes glued your OP and oil temp gauges. It has to be your fault!
crackmeup2.gif


JK


crackmeup2.gif


The hint of truth makes it that much more hilarious.
 
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Originally Posted By: Trav


The 20w didn't have a high enough VI and you didn't keep your eyes glued your OP and oil temp gauges. It has to be your fault!
crackmeup2.gif


JK


crackmeup2.gif


The hint of truth makes it that much more hilarious.

Except the attempt at humour underlies a basic misunderstanding of motor oil. A higher VI would have exacerbated the situation since the oil would have been even lighter. A lower VI or preferably a higher HTHSV would have increased the operational viscosity in the right direction.
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: salgra
guy's i wanted to share this with you:

ftp://ftp.astmtmc.cmu.edu/docs/diesel/hdeocp/minutes/2001/hdeocp.2001-07/0701ATT16.PDF



Yeah, but Ford did a bajillion miles of testing...

Cool, thanks for the link, it's interesting added to the lower viscosity improved seal link that pops up regularly.



who's engaging in ridiculous straw man arguments now? When exactly has Ford recommended thinner oils FOR DIESEL ENGINES? There are far more particles in suspension and much more fuel dilution, so it's not surprising that thinner oils=more ring wear. What does that have to do with Ford's recommendation of thinner oils in a gasoline engine?
 
Hey your the one always pushing high VI and eyeballs glued to gauges not me.
Quote:
Except the attempt at humour underlies a basic misunderstanding of motor oil.

Don't kid yourself my understanding may be better than you think. Calling you out when you post some really off the wall stuff makes more fun.
grin.gif
 
Originally Posted By: SargeBB
... Maximum gas mileage is their goal. Engine longevity and reliability is my goal.


Hear, HEAR!

Not to hijack the thread, but SargeBB your engines...what are they spec'd for? I know the newer Toyotas are all 0w20; was it the same for your 03 and 08s?
 
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Originally Posted By: Trav


The 20w didn't have a high enough VI and you didn't keep your eyes glued your OP and oil temp gauges. It has to be your fault!
crackmeup2.gif


JK


crackmeup2.gif


The hint of truth makes it that much more hilarious.


Nah, shoulda used a 0W-10 and it would have run forever.
crackmeup2.gif


Why do I have to be so nervous about running light 30-weight oils in my Volvo that people run 40-weights in? Why? This is why.

Also, should be noted that it is near impossible to get that geenrator below "minimum recommended oil pressure," on just about any oil.
27.gif


Not only that, but i didn't get a TB done yet so VH is acting like he can't see me and is acting all cold and indifferent.. Hmmm. Must also be partly the conventional oil i put in there...

Half fact, half fiction. (And OP: Stop ruining perfectly good FL generators with too heavy motor oils. All your fault!)
crackmeup2.gif
lol

I%2BWant%2BTo%2BBelieve.jpg
 
I've read enough. I've studied enough. Call me crazy. Call me ignorant. I don't believe a 30 weight is "best" for my fleet. I'm going to a 5w-40 in all my stock. Probably T-6...


If only I didn't have so much 5w-30 on hand....I think I'll go back to 3000 miles OCI's just to use it up. Maybe it will be gone by Spring.
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Choosing a suitable oil viscosity for any engine is not difficult and it certainly isn't rocket science.
There is a minimum optimum and maximum optimum operational viscosity for every engine. A 5W-30 engine oil will place you in the middle somewhere with any engine at normal operating temp's (80-100C). If the engine is worn or operates at higher oil temp's then a heavier oil grade may be required. If the engine spends a lot of it's time at low operating temp's then a high viscosity index 20wt oil may be more appropriate or an even lighter grade (Toyota and Honda will be coming out with 0W-16 grades in 2014).

So what is the minimum optimal viscosity for an engine? Well an oil that is just heavy enough to meet the oil pressure test spec's provided my the OEM is a good place to start. The maximum optimum viscosity would be an oil that is light enough so that the oil pump is not in by-pass mode at the maximum oil flow rate (that would be at elevated engine rev's) when the oil is up to temperature.

I told it wasn't rocket science.
 
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Originally Posted By: Trav


The 20w didn't have a high enough VI and you didn't keep your eyes glued your OP and oil temp gauges. It has to be your fault!
crackmeup2.gif


JK


crackmeup2.gif


The hint of truth makes it that much more hilarious.


Nah, shoulda used a 0W-10 and it would have run forever.
crackmeup2.gif


Why do I have to be so nervous about running light 30-weight oils in my Volvo that people run 40-weights in? Why? This is why.

Also, should be noted that it is near impossible to get that geenrator below "minimum recommended oil pressure," on just about any oil.
27.gif


Not only that, but i didn't get a TB done yet so VH is acting like he can't see me and is acting all cold and indifferent.. Hmmm. Must also be partly the conventional oil i put in there...

Half fact, half fiction. (And OP: Stop ruining perfectly good FL generators with too heavy motor oils. All your fault!)
crackmeup2.gif
lol

I%2BWant%2BTo%2BBelieve.jpg





???
 
Quote:
(Toyota and Honda will be coming out with 0W-16 grades in 2014).

So what does that have to do with the price of air at gas stations? I could post Bums Rush Motors is talking about bringing paint thinner and 2 stroke oil mix in 2015. That doesn't mean its any good.
Before launching into these thinner is better tirades you really should Google CAFE credits and their value.

Truth is they would spec the paint thinner mix if they thought they could get through the warranty with it and cash in on some more CAFE credits to save or trade.

http://lobby.la.psu.edu/_107th/126_CAFE_...verview_FAQ.htm
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Choosing a suitable oil viscosity for any engine is not difficult and it certainly isn't rocket science.
There is a minimum optimum and maximum optimum operational viscosity for every engine. A 5W-30 engine oil will place you in the middle somewhere with any engine at normal operating temp's (80-100C). If the engine is worn or operates at higher oil temp's then a heavier oil grade may be required. If the engine spends a lot of it's time at low operating temp's then a high viscosity index 20wt oil may be more appropriate or an even lighter grade (Toyota and Honda will be coming out with 0W-16 grades in 2014).

So what is the minimum optimal viscosity for an engine? Well an oil that is just heavy enough to meet the oil pressure test spec's provided my the OEM is a good place to start. The maximum optimum viscosity would be an oil that is light enough so that the oil pump is not in by-pass mode at the maximum oil flow rate (that would be at elevated engine rev's) when the oil is up to temperature.

I told it wasn't rocket science.


Everything you say makes perfect sense. The problem is that fuel economy standards have been the main driver behind thinner oils, and as a result some people can't or won't look at the problem logically. Every piece of information is looked at though a filter than just validates what they believe: government is evil, and so is an oil viscosity recommendation foisted upon me by the gub'ment... "Higher cylinder wall wear in diesels?" Hey, there's my "proof" that what I believe is correct! Never mind that engine wear rates w/hths down to about 2.4 have consistently been shown to be the same or lower than higher hths oils, or that 20W oils have been proven in use to be effective in long term use. If it doesn't fit what I "believe", I'll just choose to ignore it...
 
Quote:
ame or lower than higher hths oils, or that 20W oils have been proven in use to be effective in long term use. If it doesn't fit what I "believe", I'll just choose to ignore it...

Answer this question.
If 20w doesn't shear and 30w does shear to a 20w anyway then why does Ford spec 30w for it in their ecoboost instead of just specing 20w in the first place?
Quote:
If it doesn't fit what I "believe", I'll just choose to ignore it...

Seeing you are agreeing with Caterham. I would say this statement is applicable to him more than anyone on this forum.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Quote:
ame or lower than higher hths oils, or that 20W oils have been proven in use to be effective in long term use. If it doesn't fit what I "believe", I'll just choose to ignore it...

Answer this question.
If 20w doesn't shear and 30w does shear to a 20w anyway then why does Ford spec 30w for it in their ecoboost instead of just specing 20w in the first place?



1) who ever said "20W oils don't shear?". Certainly not me (nor Caterham, to the best of my knowlege)

2) While a 30W oil often does shear into a (heavy) 20W oil, it's still most likely going to be thicker than a 20W oil (which will shear, but almost never out of grade. I'm not sure I've ever actually seen a 20W shear out of grade among all of the UOA's posted on this site. Obviously, the same isn't the case for 30W oils).

So, the answer would be that most likely Ford wants more headroom in the specification, say a minimum hths of 2.7-2.8 vs. 2.4. Since turbos generally have higher oil temps, that's hardly surprising.

Originally Posted By: Trav
If it doesn't fit what I "believe", I'll just choose to ignore it...

Seeing you are agreeing with Caterham. I would say this statement is applicable to him more than anyone on this forum.


[/quote]

Why? I don't see where any of his recommendations are based on "belief", just basic information and physics. Maybe I'm missing something? What evidence is he ignoring?
 
I consider the minimum OP figure of 10psi per 1000rpm to be used for a mostly worn out engine, if I'm not seeing at least 25-50% higher figures I'm nervous...
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Choosing a suitable oil viscosity for any engine is not difficult and it certainly isn't rocket science.
There is a minimum optimum and maximum optimum operational viscosity for every engine. A 5W-30 engine oil will place you in the middle somewhere with any engine at normal operating temp's (80-100C). If the engine is worn or operates at higher oil temp's then a heavier oil grade may be required. If the engine spends a lot of it's time at low operating temp's then a high viscosity index 20wt oil may be more appropriate or an even lighter grade (Toyota and Honda will be coming out with 0W-16 grades in 2014).

So what is the minimum optimal viscosity for an engine? Well an oil that is just heavy enough to meet the oil pressure test spec's provided my the OEM is a good place to start. The maximum optimum viscosity would be an oil that is light enough so that the oil pump is not in by-pass mode at the maximum oil flow rate (that would be at elevated engine rev's) when the oil is up to temperature.

I told it wasn't rocket science.




Caterham,

While I am not against thin oils by any means (there, I said it just to clear the air before I start!!!), I would like to point out a few of my own observations / thoughts.

I can agree that almost any passenger car on the road today can run on anything from 0W20 to 20W50 and live a reasonably long life. I can also agree that it is not smart to put 20W50 in a car driving across the street everyday, and that 0W20 on a race track may not be appropriate either. So, as you state, just meet the minimum oil pressure spec as listed in the service manual, right???

However, I see a few possible concerns with this. Firstly, this is not a "spec" it is a MINIMUM spec. I will use my old 2005 Nissan Altima (3.5 L V6 engine) as an example, since I have a lot of data and experience with it. The service manual clearly states that oil pressure must be HIGHER than these numbers. It says nothing about any maximum. It states rather clearly that when an engine cannot meet these minimum numbers with specified oil at full operating temperature (oil temp), then it needs an overhaul.

Using the same car with some numbers now... It states that the MIN oil pressure at full hot idle is 15 psi, and it gives a second test spec of MIN 45 psi at 2500 RPM. This obviously assumes that all healthy engines exceed these numbers on spec'd oil. With a MIN spec of 45 psi at 2500 RPM, how on earth would you not cause the oil pump to bypass at 7500 RPM??? There is no way that this could be true unless you use a 0W10 racing oil, in which case the minimum specs would not be met at the two test RPM's.

Using another vehicle, my tow vehicle (Chev Venture) has a relatively low bypass setting, and will still cause the bypass to open up at hot idle anytime above 4500 RPM. This is with a 3.1 cP HTHS synthetic oil, which is inline with what GM specs. This is also after long highway runs with my trailer, often engaging and remaining in 3rd gear to climb long uphill passes. 270,000 km so far and runs well.

My friend's Mercedes S500 with the spec'd 0W40 always went into bypass about 2500 RPM prior to hitting redline even after long highway runs, and this vehicle is equipped with a very large oil to water heat exchanger which maintains the oil temp at 90C once warmed up (it will make its way to 100+ C on the highway but returns to 90C with a bit of idling). This car has about 340,000 km on it at this point btw.

Are you suggesting that all of these vehicles that routinely enter oil pump bypass in daily use are not using the correct lubricant? Do you honestly think that the engineers that designed these engines don't know that they will enter pump bypass during normal operation? Ultimately, do you think that they did not already take that into account and ensure that the engine, despite being in bypass, still has ample flow of oil (i.e. more than the min required for proper lubrication, even though bypass is active)?

I can't say with any certaintly, but then again, neither can anyone else unless they happen to work on the engine development teams of a major manufacturer.
 
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JOD, I think you've pretty much summed up the psychology of the lack of acceptance of 20wt or even light 30wt oil by many and the upcoming SAE 16 grade will certainly have many at risk of an apoplectic fit when it becomes available.

The thing is, 20wt and even 10wt oil has been around since the 30s, if not earlier and under what conditions they can be used; long before CAFE. The move to lighter more technically advanced high VI oils has been universal, not just with PCMOs but also with racing oils and it has little to do with fuel economy. 20wt and lighter oils are the norm with nothing heavier than light 30wt oils except for situations usually involving fuel dilution.
But what's particularly egregious is the chicken little whining
from those that should know better. Anyone who claims to know anything about engines should be able to tell, without know anything about the SAE grade of an oil if it is too thin or too thick in an engine; from the moment it is fired up to when it is fully hot. If they can't then they don't know a [censored] thing about engine lubrication.
 
5W30 oil is a typical universal weight for passenger vehicle engine. Besides, the 30 weigh oil will shear or diluted to 20 range. In addition, a 5W30 oil has hight VI index than 5W20, 10W30 if you looking at dino oil. Unless vehicle manual specifies in 5W20, I would use 5W30. Of course, 0W30 is better for winter useage. In recent years, engine are built to run high RPM or stop and go for hybrid cars, to reduce the pump loose and increase fule economy, many vehicles uses 5W20 or 0W20 but still 5W30 is better of you consider durability and fuel economy.
 
Just an aside: I just took a 1,200 mile trip in my old work car, a 16 yr. old V-6 Camry. The odometer rolled over 286,000 miles on the trip. I've used Mobil-1 5W-40 TDT for the past 11 old changes, UNTIL the last one, when I used an old 5-qt. jug that I had in the farm shop of Mobil-1 10W-30 in it. The oil had 3,200 miles on it when I left home on the trip & almost 4,500 mi. when I got back. Many of the miles were driven on I-10 at the (legal) limit of 80 MPH. The result is NO oil usage. There's a moral here, at least for me...a person who does not subscribe to the light oil philosophy...if you use the oil recommended by the manufacturer (Toyota recommended 5W-30 or 10W-30 for the 1MZ-FE V-6 in 1996), then you are good to go...even after almost 300,000 miles. BTW, this is the engine that was known after 1996 as the 'sludge monster.' I've never bought into that line of reasoning either, as the valve covers have never been off that old car. Now, as to 0 or 5W-20, I don't know if this old man could go that light a weight. Thankfully, my wife's 2010 V-6 Camry calls for 5W-30, and that's what I use in it.
 
Why is it if the thinner technologically advanced 20 grade oil is so good, a diesel engine in a truck can't use it? Even a truck driven on the ice roads in the dead of winter? It has to be more than just the soot issues associated with diesel engines. I don't think the thinner oil could stand up to the stress the bearings see in those engines, and provide enough film thickness. And once loaded up with a little soot the oil would be totally useless and destroy the engine. Maybe a diesel expert can weigh in to help me understand.
 
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