Help me choose 10k oil

Personally, that engine was never designed for 10k OCI.
4k OCI with any oil should be healthy for that engine. Why change to a longer OCI. What is the benefit?
Reason for changing is the drain plug is a self tapping drain plug from a previous owner, and I’m scared Everytime I do the oil it’s going to mess up and start leaking, and I don’t want to drop the pan and replace because this is my beater. Second reason is doing oil changes on this is a pain in the ass and I hate doing them on it so often, I’ve put 21k miles on this car in one year exactly from today, I’d like to extend it’s oci because I know this is a capable low stressed engine that’s similar to the 2uzfe, with members documented running 15k OCI in them. I ALWAYS have been the 3500-4k OCI guy, but I’m experimenting with this car
 
The oil is golden honey colored until 5k miles, I know you can’t tell by oil color but cmon that’s a pretty clean running engine
 
Thanks for your input, but my question is, how in the world are modern ford direct injected twin turbo 4 and 6 cylinders “designed” or rated for 10k OCI, but my port injected naturally aspirated Toyota v8 with no oil burning or fuel dilution issues isn’t meant for 10k? Logically mine should be able to run longer OCI than 85 percent of new cars made today

I would personally ignore the 10K OCIs if I had a DI or a Turbo or a TT or specially a small displacement turbo or any combinations of the above.
 
Reason for changing is the drain plug is a self tapping drain plug from a previous owner, and I’m scared Everytime I do the oil it’s going to mess up and start leaking, and I don’t want to drop the pan and replace because this is my beater. Second reason is doing oil changes on this is a pain in the ass and I hate doing them on it so often, I’ve put 21k miles on this car in one year exactly from today, I’d like to extend it’s oci because I know this is a capable low stressed engine that’s similar to the 2uzfe, with members documented running 15k OCI in them. I ALWAYS have been the 3500-4k OCI guy, but I’m experimenting with this car

Sounds like you need to install a fumoto valve and be done with it.
 
1994 ls400. I usually do 4k oil changes with Quaker state and a Toyota oil filter yzzd3. Please help me decide which oil would be best for 10k oci of 40 percent highway 60 city. First choice is Quaker state euro 5w40 a3/b4 rated. Second choice is castrol euro 5w40 a3/b4 rated. And third choice and least likely choice is mobile esp 5w30 or delvac 5w40. These oils will be running through the fram enduro filters, I can’t find a bette filter at Walmart for extended oci besides possibly mobile 1.

From my research it appears EURO a3/b4 oils in 40wt suit my needs in my climate and spirited high rpm driving styles. It appears euro oil is inherently better than extended protection mobile 1 oils for the purpose of extended OCI (a3/b4 euros). Starting TBN of 10 or more, a light 40 weight so if it shears it’ll shear down to 30wt as its first step instead of from 30wt to 20wt. Can someone help me choose? Or if I’m wrong in my research please let me know! It seems like a3/b4 oil is extended OCI oil before oils like mobile 1 ESP ever came on the shelves! Price doesn’t matter to me, but Quaker state euro 5w40 is 21 bucks at my Walmart which is nice! My engine needs API SJ oil as the minimum, it’s ancient. It’s also notoriously easy on oil, it’s a 1uzfe v8, the 2uzfe older brother. THANKS! I appreciate all members here

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You have the ideal oil 3rd picture: DELVAC 1 ESP 5w40. Does fine In my old Focus’s
 
Thanks for your input, but my question is, how in the world are modern ford direct injected twin turbo 4 and 6 cylinders “designed” or rated for 10k OCI, but my port injected naturally aspirated Toyota v8 with no oil burning or fuel dilution issues isn’t meant for 10k? Logically mine should be able to run longer OCI than 85 percent of new cars made today
If using a Group V Ester based oil, 10k OCI could be ok in terms of engine cleanliness and timing chain wear.
But most people are not using Group V oils.

When you mentioned "designed or rated"?
10k won't cause issues during the warranty period. After that point, automaker doesn't care as any repairs costs are on you.
It's more of a cumulative effect over time with piston rings getting dirty and stuck, timing chain wear, sludge/varnish, etc.

Ask yourself this question: If you were going to buy a 1994 LS 400, and you view 2 nearly identical used vehicles in terms of condition, appearance, odometer miles, etc, and the original owner was doing 4k OCI since new and the other vehicle's original owner was doing 10k OCI since new, which vehicle would you rather buy?
 
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To start off with I am no oil chemist by any stretch! I have been reading this forum for quite some time and have gained quite a bit of knowledge and information.

One thing I see the oil manufacturer stating is that fuel dilution is not a failure from the oil it is a defect of the engine design.

So the oil manufacturers don't consider fuel dilution as a problem.

The automotive manufacturers need to address this.

Oil manufacturers say their oil will go 10k between changes; but the real question is, will the engine designs allow that?

I am completely on the fence about these high mileage oil change intervals. And this is speaking from a new car small 4 cylinder Toyota.

Personally I don't want to start having an oil analysis after every oil change to see where my oil quality is. Are the automotive manufacturers bamboozling us into thinking we do not to worry about fuel dilution? But the oil manufacturers recognize fuel dilution as not being their problem. It almost seems like the uneducated consumer might get bamboozled!

That's just my two cents.
 
To start off with I am no oil chemist by any stretch! I have been reading this forum for quite some time and have gained quite a bit of knowledge and information.

One thing I see the oil manufacturer stating is that fuel dilution is not a failure from the oil it is a defect of the engine design.

So the oil manufacturers don't consider fuel dilution as a problem.

The automotive manufacturers need to address this.

Oil manufacturers say their oil will go 10k between changes; but the real question is, will the engine designs allow that?

I am completely on the fence about these high mileage oil change intervals. And this is speaking from a new car small 4 cylinder Toyota.

Personally I don't want to start having an oil analysis after every oil change to see where my oil quality is. Are the automotive manufacturers bamboozling us into thinking we do not to worry about fuel dilution? But the oil manufacturers recognize fuel dilution as not being their problem. It almost seems like the uneducated consumer might get bamboozled!

That's just my two cents.
No need to do a uoa every oil change. Pick an oil, run it out, do a uoa then adjust your mileage based on that data. For me, I did one run of amsoil SS and sampled at 12k, which showed I could safely go to 15k. Did a few Runs at 15k then sampled just to see watch for wear trends, meanwhile oil held up just fine. The long OCI boogeyman is STRONG on this site.
 
Reason for changing is the drain plug is a self tapping drain plug from a previous owner, and I’m scared Everytime I do the oil it’s going to mess up and start leaking, and I don’t want to drop the pan and replace because this is my beater. Second reason is doing oil changes on this is a pain in the ass and I hate doing them on it so often, I’ve put 21k miles on this car in one year exactly from today, I’d like to extend it’s oci because I know this is a capable low stressed engine that’s similar to the 2uzfe, with members documented running 15k OCI in them. I ALWAYS have been the 3500-4k OCI guy, but I’m experimenting with this car
Do what lots of folks do and stop using the drain plug you have issue (possible) with. Get a battery / electric or hand powered oil pump.
These pumps come with tubing you snake down the dip stick tube to suck the oil out. Then all you have to do is replace your filter , re-fill
the sump and be on your way.
 
Sounds like you need to install a fumoto valve and be done with it.
Or a Valvomax. Depends where the drain plug is, how pan is shaped by it, how protected it is. I have Fumoto on my Accord but the Valvomax on my Pilot.

Another option is MityVac it through the dipstick tube and then do the filter.

Where's that video from The Car Care Nut about "Toyota Owners don't do this" for 10k changes?
 
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... The long OCI boogeyman is STRONG on this site.

lol. That's true!

My list has been growing since I joined bitog. I was dino only till 2016/17. Granted short (3-4K miles, iirc 5K max) OCIs and never had any engine issues!

My still growing bogeyman list (with some overlaps) after I joined bitog:
  • Non-Euro oil. Currently @ ~50%
  • Approvals
  • High Noack
  • Syn-Blend
  • Thin Oil
  • Long OCI
  • Fuel Dilution
  • Low HTHS
  • Heat
  • High vm
  • Reserved #1
  • Reserved #2.
I'm sure I missed a few.
Oil was easier back then. 🤣
ocd + bitog is a winning combo! :alien:
 
Another option is MityVac it through the dipstick tube and then do the filter.
If you are crawling under the vehicle for the filter removal, may as well unscrew the oil pan plug too

I use my oil evacuator, every other oil change. only when leaving the oil filter on for two OCIs.
 
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I wish Quaker state gave mileage oci statements out. Deciding between mobile one euro 5w40 or Quaker state euro 5w40 for long OCI with a fram enduro filter
 
If you are crawling under the vehicle for the filter removal, may as well unscrew the oil pan plug too

I use my oil evacuator, every other oil change. only when leaving the oil filter on for two OCIs.
Drain plug concerns from earlier post-

"Reason for changing is the drain plug is a self tapping drain plug from a previous owner, and I’m scared Everytime I do the oil it’s going to mess up and start leaking, and I don’t want to drop the pan and replace because this is my beater."
 
Changed the oil with Quaker state euro 5w40 with a fram 3614

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Intend to run the oil until 8k at least. This engine should be plenty good for it
 
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