Reason for changing is the drain plug is a self tapping drain plug from a previous owner, and I’m scared Everytime I do the oil it’s going to mess up and start leaking, and I don’t want to drop the pan and replace because this is my beater. Second reason is doing oil changes on this is a pain in the ass and I hate doing them on it so often, I’ve put 21k miles on this car in one year exactly from today, I’d like to extend it’s oci because I know this is a capable low stressed engine that’s similar to the 2uzfe, with members documented running 15k OCI in them. I ALWAYS have been the 3500-4k OCI guy, but I’m experimenting with this car
Help me choose 10k oil
- Thread starter Shucks18
- Start date
Saving money and resources without increasing risk. Picking the right oil is almost always the cheapest route of ownership even if the “up front” costs are somewhat higher.
I would personally ignore the 10K OCIs if I had a DI or a Turbo or a TT or specially a small displacement turbo or any combinations of the above.
Sounds like you need to install a fumoto valve and be done with it.
That and Delvac 1 ESP 5w40 are my favorites
You have the ideal oil 3rd picture: DELVAC 1 ESP 5w40. Does fine In my old Focus’s
If using a Group V Ester based oil, 10k OCI could be ok in terms of engine cleanliness and timing chain wear.
But most people are not using Group V oils.
When you mentioned "designed or rated"?
10k won't cause issues during the warranty period. After that point, automaker doesn't care as any repairs costs are on you.
It's more of a cumulative effect over time with piston rings getting dirty and stuck, timing chain wear, sludge/varnish, etc.
Ask yourself this question: If you were going to buy a 1994 LS 400, and you view 2 nearly identical used vehicles in terms of condition, appearance, odometer miles, etc, and the original owner was doing 4k OCI since new and the other vehicle's original owner was doing 10k OCI since new, which vehicle would you rather buy?
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To start off with I am no oil chemist by any stretch! I have been reading this forum for quite some time and have gained quite a bit of knowledge and information.
One thing I see the oil manufacturer stating is that fuel dilution is not a failure from the oil it is a defect of the engine design.
So the oil manufacturers don't consider fuel dilution as a problem.
The automotive manufacturers need to address this.
Oil manufacturers say their oil will go 10k between changes; but the real question is, will the engine designs allow that?
I am completely on the fence about these high mileage oil change intervals. And this is speaking from a new car small 4 cylinder Toyota.
Personally I don't want to start having an oil analysis after every oil change to see where my oil quality is. Are the automotive manufacturers bamboozling us into thinking we do not to worry about fuel dilution? But the oil manufacturers recognize fuel dilution as not being their problem. It almost seems like the uneducated consumer might get bamboozled!
That's just my two cents.
One thing I see the oil manufacturer stating is that fuel dilution is not a failure from the oil it is a defect of the engine design.
So the oil manufacturers don't consider fuel dilution as a problem.
The automotive manufacturers need to address this.
Oil manufacturers say their oil will go 10k between changes; but the real question is, will the engine designs allow that?
I am completely on the fence about these high mileage oil change intervals. And this is speaking from a new car small 4 cylinder Toyota.
Personally I don't want to start having an oil analysis after every oil change to see where my oil quality is. Are the automotive manufacturers bamboozling us into thinking we do not to worry about fuel dilution? But the oil manufacturers recognize fuel dilution as not being their problem. It almost seems like the uneducated consumer might get bamboozled!
That's just my two cents.
No need to do a uoa every oil change. Pick an oil, run it out, do a uoa then adjust your mileage based on that data. For me, I did one run of amsoil SS and sampled at 12k, which showed I could safely go to 15k. Did a few Runs at 15k then sampled just to see watch for wear trends, meanwhile oil held up just fine. The long OCI boogeyman is STRONG on this site.
SammyChevelleTypeS3
$50 site donor 2023
Do what lots of folks do and stop using the drain plug you have issue (possible) with. Get a battery / electric or hand powered oil pump.
These pumps come with tubing you snake down the dip stick tube to suck the oil out. Then all you have to do is replace your filter , re-fill
the sump and be on your way.
Or a Valvomax. Depends where the drain plug is, how pan is shaped by it, how protected it is. I have Fumoto on my Accord but the Valvomax on my Pilot.
Another option is MityVac it through the dipstick tube and then do the filter.
Where's that video from The Car Care Nut about "Toyota Owners don't do this" for 10k changes?
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lol. That's true!
My list has been growing since I joined bitog. I was dino only till 2016/17. Granted short (3-4K miles, iirc 5K max) OCIs and never had any engine issues!
My still growing bogeyman list (with some overlaps) after I joined bitog:
- Non-Euro oil. Currently @ ~50%
- Approvals
- High Noack
- Syn-Blend
- Thin Oil
- Long OCI
- Fuel Dilution
- Low HTHS
- Heat
- High vm
- Reserved #1
- Reserved #2.
Oil was easier back then.
ocd + bitog is a winning combo!
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
If you are crawling under the vehicle for the filter removal, may as well unscrew the oil pan plug too
I use my oil evacuator, every other oil change. only when leaving the oil filter on for two OCIs.
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Drain plug concerns from earlier post-
"Reason for changing is the drain plug is a self tapping drain plug from a previous owner, and I’m scared Everytime I do the oil it’s going to mess up and start leaking, and I don’t want to drop the pan and replace because this is my beater."
No longer API SN rated so Idk if I should.
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