thin perhaps not as good as i thought

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I am just so amazed that there are folks here with so many posts, but they seem to lack the comprehension of some basic arguments as well as ignore the evidence around them from respected manufacturers.

There is nobody on the so called "thinner is better" oil side, that is saying always use thin oil.

I for one noticed Caterham's signature a long time ago and saw all sorts of viscosities for his different vehicles including 5w50.

They are simply saying the following;

1) All oils are getting technologically better
2) This typically means they are getting more robust
3) This typically means that a 20 weight oil today is better than a 20 weight oil of yesteryear. A 30 weight oil is better than a 30 weight oil of yesteryear. And so on.
4) That in many instances, engines are spending a significant proportion of their time warming up and have oil at a thicker viscosity than ideal
5) That if manufacturers can adequately test improving engines and improving oils together, then by moving to lighter oils, with higher viscosity indexes, oil can be closer to operating viscosity when cold and during warm up and still have adequate viscosity when hot.

What does the evidence show us?

A) Ford developed and tested synthetic blend 5w20 on fully loaded / towing pick up trucks in the desert non stop until 150k. This is way beyond the way that average users will use vehicles spec'd on 5w20.

Since then, the oils have only gotten better.

Are there exceptions? Of course! Surprise surprise, turbos get so hot, they need 30 weight. Turbos have always required a weight or two higher. The fact that turbos can operate on 30 weight just goes to show how much better 30 weight oils are now. If there was no 20 weight oil, no doubt we would have complaints that 30 weight is too light and that 40 should be normal.

Diesels. Diesels can be heavy on oil compared to gasoline engines. That's a design characteristic of the diesel, not a design flaw with 20 weight. Nobody is saying that a 20 weight is as strong as a 30 weight. They are just saying that for a gasoline, non turbo application, a 20 weight is strong enough.

Read this article to learn how much pressure a diesel can put on oil and then talk about it being a failure of 20 weight oil.

Powerstroke Diesel & Oil Change Intervals

B) Toyota & Honda have gone to 0w20 and have back spec'd them for many vehicles.

The Toyota back spec is confusing but one needs to ask why it's confusing. Is it a conspiracy?

Of course not! It's a careful theoretical and field based assessment of whether an engine is suitable for a lighter oil. Perhaps based on design factors or perhaps based on wear so far, or perhaps a combination of the two. It may even be that one of the factors is that older engines have suffered wear from start up (maybe even from 5w30) and they are now unlikely to be suitable for thinner oil due to potential oil pressure drops. That is the general pattern - older engines stay with 5w30, then some can also take 5w20, and then some can also take 0w20. Then into the more recent years, 5w30 is not recommended at all, and in some cases not even 5w20. There are some exceptions, which further suggests there is some very careful design considerations taking place.

In any case, there is an incredible reputation that Toyota need to uphold. There's nothing showing me that they are taking any chances here.

Lastly, those talking about thinner oils are just exploiting the fact that all oils are getting better, so thinner oils can now do a job that heavier oils once did. They are exploiting the fact that folks come here looking for oil recommendations and have engines that are back spec'd and / or are used mostly when cold.

I for one am grateful to have learnt that HTHSV is the correct measure of viscosity and the importance of higher VIs.

I have an OBDII scanner arriving soon so am keen to see what my oil pressure and other indicators are all doing.
 
Also we should note that this entire thread is based upon a likely faulty premise.......that the air SALGRA feels coming out of the filler cap is blowby. All the 4 cyl engines that I have owned "seem" to do the same thing..... I first noticed it in 1965 with my Opel, then with my new 1967 BMW, etc.

Closer investigation reveals that the air is going in and out.... covering the filler hole with clear plastic and watching it stretch both directions makes this obvious. Or, puff and inhale quickly into the palm of you hand and you will feel the outflow, and not the inflow.

He did not notice it the first time, but it was there then, I am sure.

As I have mentioned in previous posts, our commuter Escort went over 300K miles with an engine that seemed like new, our tortured 3.1 litre Chevy APV (only rated to tow 2,000 lbs since it had no towing package) pulled 5,000 lbs 4 days a week on a grueling commercial schedule, also perfect after 300,000 miles..... All on Mobil 1 0W20.

Then, the bullet proof winter starting, often nearly the only vehicle to start at -40F on my many winter snowskiing trips, possibly better gas mileage, ummmmm heck for me 0W20 is better!

All the manufacturers are aware that consumers shop for cars that have a reputation for durability....they are not going to recommend or approve an oil that shortens engine life in any way.
 
The bottom line for me is that I use the lowest viscosity oil that the manufacturer recommends. There is a great deal of overlap with exactly viscosity is recommended at a given temperature.

For example, both the owners manuals and the auto manufacturer website says that my BMW and my wife's Mercedes should run either a 5W-30 or a 0W-40. Regardless, the oil used must meet A3/B3/B4 specs and LL-01 for the BMW and 229.5 for the Merc.

In both these cars I use 0W-30 German Castrol, which meets all the specs listed above, and is currently shown on the most recent factory official Mercedes Benz "Bevo" list (which, BTW, approves a boatload of different 0W-30, 5W-30, 0W-40, and 5W-40 oils). IMO, the Mercedes 229.5 spec is the holy grail for my fleet.

Even though my wife's Mercedes seldom sees anything beyond 3,000 RPM and half throttle I'd never ever consider using a 20W oil, even in the dead of winter.

Sometimes when our fleet of cars is distributed between our two homes such that I have to use the Mercedes to make an early morning, garaged, overnight cold start, 2 mile round trip with an outside winter temp of 30 degrees I'd still never consider using a 20W oil. That's why I use 0W-30 German Castrol, rather than a 5W-30, 0W-40, or 5W-40.

Part of being knowledgeable about things automotive is knowing that one shouldn't lean on a cold motor and rev it unnecessarily. Given the 7 quart sump on the BMW and the 8.5 quart sump on the Mercedes, neither of those cars will see anything beyond half throttle and 2,500 RPM for 7 or 8 miles, maybe more if it's unusually cold and they've been sitting unused for several days!

IMO, caring for one's car in these kinds of nuanced ways provides far better mechanical longevity than does experimenting with non-spec oils and justifying it depending on whether it's being driven on the Autobahn at WOT or the corner grocery store, never exceeding 2K RPM.

Respectfully,

Scott
 
Originally Posted By: SLO_Town


Part of being knowledgeable about things automotive is knowing that one shouldn't lean on a cold motor and rev it unnecessarily. Given the 7 quart sump on the BMW and the 8.5 quart sump on the Mercedes, neither of those cars will see anything beyond half throttle and 2,500 RPM for 7 or 8 miles, maybe more if it's unusually cold and they've been sitting unused for several days!

IMO, caring for one's car in these kinds of nuanced ways provides far better mechanical longevity than does experimenting with non-spec oils and justifying it depending on whether it's being driven on the Autobahn at WOT or the corner grocery store, never exceeding 2K RPM.

Respectfully,

Scott


A post I can agree with...

I have to really watch the Marauder when cold, it can start making boost at less than 1/4 throttle, but I try to keep vac to no less than five inches when cold...
 
Originally Posted By: SLO_Town
Sometimes when our fleet of cars is distributed between our two homes such that I have to use the Mercedes to make an early morning, garaged, overnight cold start, 2 mile round trip with an outside winter temp of 30 degrees I'd still never consider using a 20W oil. That's why I use 0W-30 German Castrol, rather than a 5W-30, 0W-40, or 5W-40.


The specs indicate that M1 0w40 is not that different to GC 0w30 for your cold start. It has a higher VI.

Originally Posted By: SLO_Town
Part of being knowledgeable about things automotive is knowing that one shouldn't lean on a cold motor and rev it unnecessarily. Given the 7 quart sump on the BMW and the 8.5 quart sump on the Mercedes, neither of those cars will see anything beyond half throttle and 2,500 RPM for 7 or 8 miles, maybe more if it's unusually cold and they've been sitting unused for several days!


Good point about how much oil needs to be heated. My Mercedes has a 9 quart sump. Thankfully, with the 5.5L engine and 7 gears, 2000rpm is 80mph.
 
Originally Posted By: SLO_Town
The bottom line for me is that I use the lowest viscosity oil that the manufacturer recommends. There is a great deal of overlap with exactly viscosity is recommended at a given temperature.
In both these cars I use 0W-30 German Castrol, (which, BTW, approves a boatload of different 0W-30, 5W-30, 0W-40, and 5W-40 oils).
Even though my wife's Mercedes seldom sees anything beyond 3,000 RPM and half throttle I'd never ever consider using a 20W oil, even in the dead of winter.

with an outside winter temp of 30 degrees I'd still never consider using a 20W oil. That's why I use 0w-30 German Castrol, rather than a 5W-30, 0W-40, or 5W-40.

Using the lightest oil that the manufacturer recommends is a very reasonable approach but the grade alone won't tell you if that's what you're actually doing. The four grades you've mentioned are virtually identical in terms viscosity at operating temp's. They're all A3/B3/B4 oils with HTHSVs in a very narrow 3.5-3.8cP range.
And GC (167 VI) isn't the lightest oil of the bunch, that would be M1 0W-40 due to it's higher 185 viscosity index. In fact it's lighter than GC at start-up temp's as high as 75F.

As far as your adversion to using a 0W-20 grade oil, I can understand that since it's not a recommmended oil (although MB did recommend the 5W-20 grade for extreme cold temperature operations years ago before the advent of 0W oils). Your very careful cold start procedure is to be commended and I follow a similar approach using my oil pressure gauge as a variable rev' limiter to determine my shift points (just before by-pass). Of course if it's really cold, below 0F, even with a 0W-20 oil you'll be in by-pass the second the engine starts and will stay that way for a good amount of time before some heat can get into the oil to at least start to thin it out. Your 30F under such conditions seems balmy?
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Maybe Doug Hillary can chime in, he is the best source for this sort of info on diesels.

He has some valid opinions on Gas engines as well.
He certainly doesn't subscribe to any conspiracy theory on the part of the OEMs regarding 20wt oils and is on record stating that it generally best to use the lightest oil recommended and even lighter in some cases such as the following thread where he recommended TGMO 0W-20 for winter use in a 2011 Hyundai Accent.
The lightest specified oil is a 5W-20:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...140#Post2768140
 
My Jetta has I think excessive blow-by. When I open the oil filler cap, it starts dancing up and down almost tipping it over. But, it accelerates well and runs smooth on the highway. How does your car drive before and after the thin oil? Also, do you use OEM filters and spark plugs?
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: SLO_Town
The bottom line for me is that I use the lowest viscosity oil that the manufacturer recommends. There is a great deal of overlap with exactly viscosity is recommended at a given temperature.
In both these cars I use 0W-30 German Castrol, (which, BTW, approves a boatload of different 0W-30, 5W-30, 0W-40, and 5W-40 oils).
Even though my wife's Mercedes seldom sees anything beyond 3,000 RPM and half throttle I'd never ever consider using a 20W oil, even in the dead of winter.

with an outside winter temp of 30 degrees I'd still never consider using a 20W oil. That's why I use 0w-30 German Castrol, rather than a 5W-30, 0W-40, or 5W-40.


And GC (167 VI) isn't the lightest oil of the bunch, that would be M1 0W-40 due to it's higher 185 viscosity index. In fact it's lighter than GC at start-up temp's as high as 75F.



With the way I warmup and drive a cold car I'm not so much worried about viscosity at low temps. Plus, even in the dead of our coldest winter my garage will only get down to 40 degrees F (which seems cold as [censored] to me).

As I said, by my definition of thin, a xW-30 works best for me because of its viscosity at 100 degrees C. Though it might sound impossible to some of you on this forum, I feel noticeably more power in my BMW when using a 30 weight versus a 40 weight. When I say "noticeable" I'm talking about a difference similar to when driving your car on a cold morning versus a hot afternoon. There is a difference.

If I had to run a xW-40 I'd choose Pennzoil Ultra because it has the lowest viscosity at 100C. Actually, I tried this oil in both the BMW and Merc and thought the cars ran well. But, at the risk of suffering from the wrath of some of you, I am a short OCI guy (Forgive me. I'm one of the old gear heads on this forum. In my day we had lead in our gasoline and carburetors caused wicked fuel dilution. Heck, many of my cars had manual chokes! You want toxic waste? Stand behind my old four carburetor, manual choke V12 E-Type Jag during a cold start!!! It would literally make your eyes water and nostrils burn! But, there was nothing like the sound of that thing lighting up and roaring to life. Every man needs to own a V12 sometime in his lifetime!).

Anyway, the PU was almost black after 3K miles. Pentospeed VS used to drain out after 3K miles looking so unused it would sometimes make me feel guilty.

And, don't even got there with the supposed cleaning ability of PU and that it was somehow cleaning up my motor. At 75K miles the top end of my M54 motor looks brand new, literally so.

Here are some A3/B3/B4 MB 229.5 and BMW LL-01 oil comparisons:

40C 100C
German Castrol 0W-30 72.0 12.2
Pentospeed VS 0W-30 73.0 12.1
Total QE 0W-30 68.5 12.2
Mobil 1 0W-40 75.0 13.5
Penz Ultra 5W-40 74.4 13.1
Kendall GT1 84.3 13.9

Looking at these, if I were really concerned about colder temps, it seems that the Total Quartz Energy 0W-30 would be the ticket. But, that oil doesn't interest me. I'd take the Pentospeed VS any day (too bad it's discontinued - but I still have 50 liters of it left in my 200 liter/quart oil stash).

FWIW,

Scott
 
Originally Posted By: SLO_Town
The bottom line for me is that I use the lowest viscosity oil that the manufacturer recommends. There is a great deal of overlap with exactly viscosity is recommended at a given temperature.

For example, both the owners manuals and the auto manufacturer website says that my BMW and my wife's Mercedes should run either a 5W-30 or a 0W-40. Regardless, the oil used must meet A3/B3/B4 specs and LL-01 for the BMW and 229.5 for the Merc.

In both these cars I use 0W-30 German Castrol, which meets all the specs listed above, and is currently shown on the most recent factory official Mercedes Benz "Bevo" list (which, BTW, approves a boatload of different 0W-30, 5W-30, 0W-40, and 5W-40 oils). IMO, the Mercedes 229.5 spec is the holy grail for my fleet.

Even though my wife's Mercedes seldom sees anything beyond 3,000 RPM and half throttle I'd never ever consider using a 20W oil, even in the dead of winter.

Sometimes when our fleet of cars is distributed between our two homes such that I have to use the Mercedes to make an early morning, garaged, overnight cold start, 2 mile round trip with an outside winter temp of 30 degrees I'd still never consider using a 20W oil. That's why I use 0W-30 German Castrol, rather than a 5W-30, 0W-40, or 5W-40.

Part of being knowledgeable about things automotive is knowing that one shouldn't lean on a cold motor and rev it unnecessarily. Given the 7 quart sump on the BMW and the 8.5 quart sump on the Mercedes, neither of those cars will see anything beyond half throttle and 2,500 RPM for 7 or 8 miles, maybe more if it's unusually cold and they've been sitting unused for several days!

IMO, caring for one's car in these kinds of nuanced ways provides far better mechanical longevity than does experimenting with non-spec oils and justifying it depending on whether it's being driven on the Autobahn at WOT or the corner grocery store, never exceeding 2K RPM.

Respectfully,

Scott


Good points Scott! I'm not disagreeing with you at all, I'm just using your post to state some of my own opinions, I agree with you.

Your mfg is giving you the option to use more than one grade of oil based on how the vehicle is used. Which I think is a great idea. Many cars sold in the USA only give one option, and that is for either 0W20 or 5w20 with no other choices. In fact many of us run the risk of voiding a warranty using 0W20 in place of 5W20 if the mfg used 5W20 for their testing. I think the reason is if the car maker used lets say 0W20 to establish their mpg figures CAFE says that grade is the oil that has to be mentioned on the fill cap and in the OM, with NO OTHER CHOICES.

IIRC the 3.7L engine I have in my Liberty called for 5W30 oil in 2006 the same exact engine, no changes made to it calls for 5W20 in 2007 and newer. That is only one example, there are several more. At the time I believe API SM was in, did SM oils improve from December 31, 2006 - January 1,2007? Or did CAFE become more influential in 2007?

JOD mentioned under some circumstances [in bearings I think] the film strength of 20 grade oil is supposed to be [thicker?] than 30 and 40 grade oils. Why do some high performance gas engines call for 40 and even 50 grade oil? After all the 20 grade oil has the characteristics JOD mentioned and dissipates heat faster and better that should be the better choice, shouldn't it? Same can be said for turbo engines calling for 30 grade oil, a 20 dissipates heat better and cools better. Then I read all the time that a 30 grade oil shears to a 20 grade oil in engines calling for 30 grade oil. If that's the case I'm sure the engine maker knows it too. So if it happens as often as many claim here why not just use a 20 grade oil to begin with? Why even make a 30 grade oil if it shears to 20 grade oil? I also think JOD is using an oil thicker than what his vehicle calls for because he feels it is a better choice, based on how the engine runs? Correct me if I'm wrong I'm not really sure why, but I believe I read that.

What bothers me is I'd rather make the choice of what oil grade to use, not have CAFE do it for me. I'd rather not be penalized for doing so by having my warranty denied if I have an oil related problem because I use 0W30 in place of 5W20, or I used 0w20 in place of 5W20. JMO
 
Quote:
What does the evidence show us?

From you post showing the chart from Toyota the "evidence" is the American motorist is being played.

Proof this is CAFE motivated and nothing more when they say 20w ONLY and not giving any option for different weights.
The same engines running everywhere else don't use 20w and the motorist has a choice in the owners manual depending on the conditions the vehicle will be operated in.

In Euro and possibly Asian and Australian owners manuals 20w isn't even an option 5w30 and 0w40 are, in the US its 20w only for many of the engines.
This is because they got their CAFE with 20w and have to force (not just recommend) 20w with no option. They do this with warranty enforcement mechanism.
Quote:
Ford developed and tested synthetic blend 5w20 on fully loaded / towing pick up trucks in the desert non stop until 150k

What model of truck was that and what engine was it?
Were you referring to this one..

http://media.ford.com/article_display.cfm?article_id=33286

That was 5w30 not a 5w20 blend in the ecoboost. with more turbo and DI engines coming online 20w use will decline.
With even stiffer CAFE and EPA regulation turbochargers and DI use will become more necessary to achieve the same power in smaller engines.
Even Toyota will probably have to use 5w30 in their Toyota badged Subaru BRZ turbo when it comes.

I choose my oils based on what is being run in places with a similar climate and no regulation forced requirements in the same engine.
To me this makes sense because the manufacturer has nothing to gain whatsoever by recommending an oil that is possibly only marginal in some conditions like they do in the US.
 
Originally Posted By: JOD
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Why is it if the thinner technologically advanced 20 grade oil is so good, a diesel engine in a truck can't use it? Even a truck driven on the ice roads in the dead of winter? It has to be more than just the soot issues associated with diesel engines. I don't think the thinner oil could stand up to the stress the bearings see in those engines, and provide enough film thickness. And once loaded up with a little soot the oil would be totally useless and destroy the engine. Maybe a diesel expert can weigh in to help me understand.



You're not talking about "a little bit of soot". Soot loads in diesel engines are anywhere from 3-10%, vs. .2-.4% in a gasoline engine. As the soot loads increase, so does the particle size (since the particles agglomerate), hence requiring thicker films to keep them in suspension. The ACEA engine wear tests use 4-5% soot loads and 7% fuel dilution.

These are not similar operating parameters to what a gasoline engine will see, not even remotely close. So, choosing an oil for a gasoline engine based on wear rates in a diesel engine makes no logical sense to me. If someone can make a convincing argument as to why it should, I'm all ears.


Dont be so sure about that. In this era of modern GDI engines, the limits of soot loading and fuel dilution in SI engines are increasing. I am in a position to know this.
 
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
Originally Posted By: JOD
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Why is it if the thinner technologically advanced 20 grade oil is so good, a diesel engine in a truck can't use it? Even a truck driven on the ice roads in the dead of winter? It has to be more than just the soot issues associated with diesel engines. I don't think the thinner oil could stand up to the stress the bearings see in those engines, and provide enough film thickness. And once loaded up with a little soot the oil would be totally useless and destroy the engine. Maybe a diesel expert can weigh in to help me understand.



You're not talking about "a little bit of soot". Soot loads in diesel engines are anywhere from 3-10%, vs. .2-.4% in a gasoline engine. As the soot loads increase, so does the particle size (since the particles agglomerate), hence requiring thicker films to keep them in suspension. The ACEA engine wear tests use 4-5% soot loads and 7% fuel dilution.

These are not similar operating parameters to what a gasoline engine will see, not even remotely close. So, choosing an oil for a gasoline engine based on wear rates in a diesel engine makes no logical sense to me. If someone can make a convincing argument as to why it should, I'm all ears.


Dont be so sure about that. In this era of modern GDI engines, the limits of soot loading and fuel dilution in SI engines are increasing. I am in a position to know this.



I guess they have a reason for recommending 30 grade in many of these GDI engines them, shearing and all.
smile.gif


Just wondering, what's your opinion on diesel engine bearings in a heavy duty application using a 20 grade oil, would the bearings survive or would a 40 grade be better? Soot taken out of the equation. I'm trying to wrap on head around the early film strength/thickness comments. Thanks
 
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
Originally Posted By: JOD
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Why is it if the thinner technologically advanced 20 grade oil is so good, a diesel engine in a truck can't use it? Even a truck driven on the ice roads in the dead of winter? It has to be more than just the soot issues associated with diesel engines. I don't think the thinner oil could stand up to the stress the bearings see in those engines, and provide enough film thickness. And once loaded up with a little soot the oil would be totally useless and destroy the engine. Maybe a diesel expert can weigh in to help me understand.



You're not talking about "a little bit of soot". Soot loads in diesel engines are anywhere from 3-10%, vs. .2-.4% in a gasoline engine. As the soot loads increase, so does the particle size (since the particles agglomerate), hence requiring thicker films to keep them in suspension. The ACEA engine wear tests use 4-5% soot loads and 7% fuel dilution.

These are not similar operating parameters to what a gasoline engine will see, not even remotely close. So, choosing an oil for a gasoline engine based on wear rates in a diesel engine makes no logical sense to me. If someone can make a convincing argument as to why it should, I'm all ears.


Dont be so sure about that. In this era of modern GDI engines, the limits of soot loading and fuel dilution in SI engines are increasing. I am in a position to know this.


Increased fuel dilution? Sure. But there are still several dozen, if not hundreds of UOA's on DI engines. Those soot levels are not realistic in any gasoline engine which is currently available, not even remotely close. Total insoluables (which include soot and other byproducts) pretty much never exceeds .5% even in DI engines.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Quote:
What does the evidence show us?

From you post showing the chart from Toyota the "evidence" is the American motorist is being played.

Proof this is CAFE motivated and nothing more when they say 20w ONLY and not giving any option for different weights.
The same engines running everywhere else don't use 20w and the motorist has a choice in the owners manual depending on the conditions the vehicle will be operated in.

In Euro and possibly Asian and Australian owners manuals 20w isn't even an option 5w30 and 0w40 are, in the US its 20w only for many of the engines.
This is because they got their CAFE with 20w and have to force (not just recommend) 20w with no option. They do this with warranty enforcement mechanism.
Quote:
Ford developed and tested synthetic blend 5w20 on fully loaded / towing pick up trucks in the desert non stop until 150k

What model of truck was that and what engine was it?
Were you referring to this one..

http://media.ford.com/article_display.cfm?article_id=33286

That was 5w30 not a 5w20 blend in the ecoboost. with more turbo and DI engines coming online 20w use will decline.
With even stiffer CAFE and EPA regulation turbochargers and DI use will become more necessary to achieve the same power in smaller engines.
Even Toyota will probably have to use 5w30 in their Toyota badged Subaru BRZ turbo when it comes.

I choose my oils based on what is being run in places with a similar climate and no regulation forced requirements in the same engine.
To me this makes sense because the manufacturer has nothing to gain whatsoever by recommending an oil that is possibly only marginal in some conditions like they do in the US.











+1
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint

I'm trying to wrap on head around the early film strength/thickness comments. Thanks


I guess I did a poor job of explaining this, so I'll try again. Mutligrade oils have different viscoelestic properties than monograde oils, because of their higher VI and polymer additives. That is, they're more elastic. So, a thinner oil, which is subjected to more pressure in a journal bearing, becomes thicker and supports larger loads, since it's viscosity increases exponentially (not linearly) with pressure. That's where the Barus Equation fits in.

If you're really interested, you can go to the library and pick this up for some pleasure reading: LINK

Obviously, you can get to a point where this effect will not be enough to overcome a lack of minimum oil film thickness, so there are limits to MOFT. That's why I said earlier that "it should" be adequate. It depends on the bearing clearances and the temperatures which the oil sees. It most applications though, a minimum hths of 2.4 or so seems to currently be the minimum across a broad range of engines. To go thinner than that, engine clearances will have to change.

Alternatively, you can always fall back to "what they do in Australia", and believing the gub'ment is trying to ruin our engines, as it seems popular around here...
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I was looking for the reason/reasons why they don't use 20 grade oil in the big diesels especially during the winter that's all. Also a lot of people like diesel oil in passenger cars because the oil is more "stout/robust".


Stout and robust are very technical terms only explained to those who get their masters in mechanical engineering.
wink.gif


Set aside for now that the additive packs on a PCMO are not suitable for a diesel engine. We also need to remember that the duty cycle of the average diesel (particularly in fleet usage) is totally different from that in the average gasoline vehicle. While a 0w-20 might be wonderful for an unaided, cold weather start in a diesel, a diesel's sump isn't going to stay cold for long and it's not being used as a grocery getter. There's a reason that 15w-40 HDEO is still a very common diesel lube (as is 10w-30), whereas 10w-30 PCMO is a tad obsolete.

I have no idea how badly a 20 grade would shear in a diesel application due to fuel dilution, or how soot would affect it, even if the additive package were suitable. As for bearing loading, I'll have to leave that to one of our resident experts.

Garak, 20W-20 and 10W` HDEOs have been around forever and were commonly used (what choice did they have) for unaided starting at temp's down to -38C.
One would think that the development of the 5W-30 HDEO multi-grade and of course synthetic 0W-30 and 0W-40 HDEOs would have rendered the light single grade HDEOs obsolete but they're still in production. I suspect they're cheap cost is why they're still used primarily in construction equipment.
The following are the spec's of Esso's XD-3 range of HDEOs their 10W and 20W-20 monograde oils:

http://www.imperialoil.ca/Canada-English/Files/Products_Lubes/IOCAENCVLESEsso_Xd-3_extra.pdf
 
So overhauling scores of engines makes one an instant oil expert?

Good to know!

I guess that makes me one because I've overhauled a bunch, from German air and watercooled, Brit stuff, American stuff, Italian stuff and Japanese stuff, even some (gag, choke) French stuff. In power ranges from a 1200 hp Atlas Imperial, as big as a house, to a tiny 1.25 hp air cooled that fit on an end table.

Having been a German car tech (VW, Porsche & Audi dealers & indy shops) I can also attest that overhauling German car engines gives one a lot of experience because you have to do it so often. Hey, being former German car tech makes me an uberoil expert (sorry, can't get the umlaut in there)!

Sarcasm disengaged.

I don't know why this thick vs thin garbage has to go on and on and why CATERHAM has to be the thin oil whipping boy. If you actually READ his stuff, he says time and time and time again it's the RIGHT oil for the application, not thick OR thin. Maybe he falls on the thin side more often than not but he does so by making a reasoned choice, not riding a particular bandwagon. Unlike others.

"As thin as possible, as thick as necessary." Get it? If not, think hard and you will.

I coined that phase, by the way, not CATERHAM or anyone else. If you don't like it, blame ME. I stole it from the old Camel Trophy four-wheel driving credo, "As slow as possible, as fast as necessary."

Unlike most of of the naysayers and one-liner-one-weight-fratboy posters, CATERHAM has posted some objective methods of determining the right oil viscosity. If you disagree, tell us why and how it's wrong.

If you look at the preponderance of the evidence, there is more that shows "thin is just fine in most cases" than show "thicker is always better." The many OEs specing thinner oils have done a lot of work to validate those recommendations. And it really doesn't matter why they did it either. It was done and it works when specified. They have MILLIONS invested in the testing itself and millions on the line if they do it wrong. You have to give that a lot of weight. If you don't, you're a fool.

If I somehow missed the comparable volume of testing that shows thicker than spec'ed is better, buy all means educate me.

As to light oils and diesels, I'm old enough to remember when straight 20 grade was the winter speced oil for diesels. If you go to the University of Nebraska website http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tractormuseumlit> and look through the thousands of tractor tests there, you will see a lot of diesel tractors from the '70s and back tested on straight 20 grade oil. Some were even tested in warmish weather that way.
 
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