I haven't read or experienced FB2.0L burning any oil. And we have owned a coupleIt's not miles per gallon of gas, it's miles per quarter of oil.
I haven't read or experienced FB2.0L burning any oil. And we have owned a coupleIt's not miles per gallon of gas, it's miles per quarter of oil.
Tried and failed those engines don't like a 2.9+ HTHS lube.10w30 in south Florida and never think twice about it.
i might be wrong but I dont think modern roo's like anything north of 5wIf you only do short trips, 0w-16 will be perfectly fine. If you do long trips and run the car hard, how about a 10w-20? This will have no Viscosity Index Improvers, be a bit thicker than most 20 weights, and not as thick as a 30 weight, so any tiny loss of MPG will be just that: tiny...unmeasurable in the noise of all the other variables. The increased thickness of a 10w-20 will provide a bit more MOFT. Or, you could jump right to Mobil 1 0w40. Your engine won't explode.
Eddy, you know it is RPM that is the killer.It is CAFE related.
South Florida, you are at pretty much sea level. Cooling is much easier.
To give you an example. A few weeks ago, I was blasting up the Vail Pass (above 10,000ft) at around 80mph in Atlas. I managed to get oil temperature to 255f.
I was doing 90mph in the Arizona desert recently, around 100-102 ambient temperature, and oil temperature was 217f.
Altitude is killer! High ambient temperature but low elevation is a non-issue. Your cooling system will keep oil temperature in check.
So, do not worry about that. Now, 0W16? I personally would not go.
The Xw only matters at the lowest startup temperature. OP lives in Florida...no low temp starts down there.i might be wrong but I dont think modern roo's like anything north of 5w
All things equal. But, when you don’t have air density, you just don’t have something to offload heat to.Eddy, you know it is RPM that is the killer.
I'll bet the makeup of their 2024 engines recommending 0w16, are different than years past.
0w20 in a EP-tier, is what I'd run. Not anything thicker...... not for a while anyways. I would need more consumer reviews/feedback first, prior to me reaching for the 0/5w30s.
Not VW 508 509.A higher HT/HS which protects the engine somewhat better from wear.
I don’t believe thinner oil at startup for the timing chain is really a thing, given that all models outside of N. America allow thicker grades.I need BITOG roo experts on this one
I have a new 2024 blue geyser colored crosstrek that is supposed to be delivered 2nd week of December.
I test drove a black one. I looked at the owners manual and saw its go to oil is 0w-16 with an optional conventional ow-20. I didnt know there weas such a thing as conventional 0w-20. Anyway the service manager said they run ow-20 full synthetic on their crosstreks.
anyway
I've read on here that roo's need thinner oil at start up because of the timing chains. I hate thin oil but I dont want to have warranty related issues. I'd like to run 0w-30 or 5w-30 on this engine. Is it okay? did the tolerances and clearances change at all?
It's cold right now in the Colorado Rockies and will only get colder.
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I don’t believe thinner oil at startup for the timing chain is really a thing, given that all models outside of N. America allow thicker grades.
I’m curious whether the dealer using 0W-20 is due to them deciding that 0W-20 is best for the application and location or if they are unaware of the new grade requirement? Regardless, 0W-20 will be fine. A thin XW-30 would probably be fine, but not sure I’d jump two grades over the recommended viscosity. Even the 2.4DIT specs 0W-20.
I think this site should ban thin/thick discussions. Also ban “what kind of oil should I use”questions and pictures of dipsticks.By my count this is about the eighth or ninth "thick vs. thin" vs. CAFE thread in about a week. Most have the side of "engineers know best".
Surely one of those threads or one of the previous 300 before them contain an answer?