Should I switch to synthetic?

[ryan2022]

Hi guys, I'm just l'm just looking for a quick poll. I drive basically 9 miles each way to work everyday, with a mix of probably 40/60 highway/city driving. I only change the oil every 6 months or so, and the car sees the odd (1/year), light track day.

Its an '02 Acura RSX base model and I run 5w20. Not sure if its my head, but synthetics feel and sound better in the care. Everything just feels muted on regular oil. What are your thoughts? Thanks again for the help.

 

[demarpaint]

You are going to get people that will say synthetics are a waste of $$ for a 6 month OCI, and others like myself will say go with the synthetic. My feeling is that little extra margin of protection (especially that you are not getting that oil up to temp), and better flow in cold weather gives the synthetic the plus for ME. Also if you watch the weekly and monthly ads you can get good deals on Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum with a high quality filter for a very reasonable price.

JMO,
Frank D

 

[Pablo]

Yours sounds like a fine application for synthetic oil.

 

[Bill in Utah]

9 miles each way = 18 miles a day times 180 days = 3240 miles OCI.

Conventional 5w-20 without question.

But if your "dyno" has you thinking since you spend more $$ for syn that it makes your engine running better, stay with the syn.

But actual data (back it up with a UOA) would show that any 5w-20 conventional would be doing as well in a 6 mo 3.3k OCI as syn. (do UOAs on both! I have)

The only concern with ANY oil is how much water and byproducts you are getting with the short trips over the 6 months.

A UOA would help here..

Take care, bill

 

[ryan2022]

Thanks guys, my head gets cloudy with internet wisom these days. I can always trust you guys

 

[Cup of Joe]

If I only drove 18 miles a day I'd through a party.

I drive 12,500 miles in 6 months. I use synthetic just to cut down on the number of oil changes I have to do, otherwise its every 10 weeks.

 

[ChiTDI]

Originally Posted By: ryan2022
Thanks guys, my head gets cloudy with internet wisom these days. I can always trust you guys



Copy that !

 

[Jeffdc5]

my ex gf has an 05 base rsx I used to service it with exxon superflo car ran great

 

[Built_Well]

Interesting info about today's engines:

(From the Schaeffer Oil web site)

New Emission Regulations

Since January 1994, all new engines are designed to provide
low emissions. These design changes resulted in an increase in
the soot particles going into the engine oil instead of out the
stack. With the introduction of Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR)
engines in 2004, even more soot reaches the engine oil. This
results in higher soot related wear and increases in the engines
oil’s viscosity due to soot thickening. These low emission
engines run hotter, too. All of this results in more stress on
the engine oil.

The synthetic portion and proprietary detergent and dispersant
chemistry provide a Margin of Safety that significantly improves
Schaeffer's SUPREME 7000’s ability to disperse soot. It gives
greater protection against abrasive soot wear, viscosity thickening
and deposits. This oil also handles temperatures over 450ºF without
breaking down.

# # #

To a novice like myself, this sounds like another good reason to use synthetic oils.

Here's the link if you want more info:

http://www.schaefferoil.com/supreme_7000.html

 

[Gary Allan]

Quote:
I drive basically 9 miles each way to work everyday,


So, you do around 6k a year? No sub zero starting? (where's Peterbough? NH, Canada, UK?)

I'd say that you're fine. Most cars can fall into 6 month OCI's. Outside of severe cold, it's hard to justify a synth under 10k+/- UNLESS it's the only thing that allows someone to do a 6 month OCI instead of 3m/3k.

 

[Built_Well]

I waited 7 months this time for the OCI, since April had a lot of cold days in it. I would have felt less comfortable doing the OCI in the 7th month if dino were in the car in place of PP.

I think technically I'm in violation of Toyota's warranty which requires 6-month OCIs, but I bought my oil filter and drain plug gasket from the dealership in April, and have the dated receipt

Only traveled 4,000 miles in 7 months, but was eager to do my first-ever DIY change.

 

[ericthepig]

I think that Schaeffers article was discussing diesel apps (and their 15w40 oil).

For your app - I'd recommend a 1 yr OCI w/ PP 0w20, M1 0w20, Amsoil 0w20, or Schaeffer 5w20 (no special order - though Amsoil would be at the top of the list if I had a local dist.) The 0w20s should prove a bit more robust than their 5w20 same brand counterparts.

 

[ryan2022]

Well, I'mm convinced to go with conventional, but at the most extreme we do see -25 in the winter. Its usually only for a couple weeks though. -25 is roughly -18 or so F.

 

[Gary Allan]

In that environment... I'd have no trouble justifying the use of a synth over the winter. No question in my mind.

 

[PT1]

Originally Posted By: Jeffdc5
my ex gf has an 05 base rsx I used to service it with exxon superflo car ran great


Are you sure she didn't leave you for an Amsoil guy?

j/k

 

[PT1]

Originally Posted By: ryan2022
Well, I'mm convinced to go with conventional, but at the most extreme we do see -25 in the winter. Its usually only for a couple weeks though. -25 is roughly -18 or so F.


-18F would be an automatic synthetic choice for me.

 

[Built_Well]

Originally Posted By: ericthepig
For your app - I'd recommend a 1 yr OCI w/ PP 0w20, M1 0w20, Amsoil 0w20, or Schaeffer 5w20 (no special order - though Amsoil would be at the top of the list if I had a local dist.)


I'm not knowledgeable enough and am too scared to try anything other than the 5w-30 viscocity recommended in the '06 Camry manual. I'd like to try the Amsoil ASL, but I'm kinda scared to venture beyond API-certification, too.

I saw at Wikipedia under the AMSOIL entry that XLF is API-Certified. Anyone know if that's true; I don't have any Amsoil bottles around to check the label.

Some of the Wiki entry:

"Another common misconception is that motor oils must be API certified in order to meet warranty requirements. The fact is, lubricants are not required to be certified by the API, only meet or exceed API specifications. An API license indicates that a specific motor oil formulation has passed the minimum performance standards as defined by a series of laboratory bench tests that include physical, chemical and engine tests.

"API licensing was originally developed for mineral- based oils. Petroleum motor oil companies can take advantage of the convenience and flexibility associated with base stock interchange, which allows them to buy petroleum base stocks from any number of suppliers without being required to re-test and re-certify their products. This ensures adequate supply and competitive pricing. Most synthetic base stocks, on the other hand, are supplier specific and base stock interchange is not allowed. If, for instance, if AMSOIL wanted to blend an API-approved motor oil using the same type of base stock from a different supplier, the oil would have to be re-tested and re-certified."

 

[globey]

The XL line is API certified and is a grp III based synthetic. It is a very good oil. I am running the 5W-20 version of it now and I ran and posted a UOA a few weeks ago from my last fill.

You won't get drains as long as the ASL or other Amsoil oils but it is a fine oil nonetheless. It's priced a little less than the others too. I read that they developed this line to cater to the quick change places that required API certifications. This is their entry.

 

[Built_Well]

Would anyone know what the TBN value is for extra virgin PP oil? I don't see it in the .pdf file available at Pennzoil.com for Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30.

I think I've gained enough courage to try Amsoil ASL but I'd like to compare TBNs.

Gonna get my first-ever UOA when I dump out the PP next time. And I'll get a UOA after the ASL, too.

 

[Built_Well]

...Sorry forgot to add: Is there any chance the ASL will eventually hose my catalytic converter?