Help with recommendation for motor oil for Toyota and Nissan daily drivers

[tired]

5.7L v8

Tundra is very easy on oil.
Also I don't need 0W in my area and 10W is very adequate.

I try to go one notch higher than the owner's manual recommendation or spec. I have also seen many good reports with M1 EP and Valvoline EP 5W-30 has UOAs comparable to Amsoil.

My own experience with M1 EP 10W-30 has been very good also. It doesn't burn in any of our cars. That's the only approval I care about. I don't care how many approvals an oil carries, If it burns, game over.

For example M1 FS 0W-40 burned in the only car I tried and in a week or two I'm trying M1 5W-40 (with the same Euro approvals) in the same car to see what's going on ... And this car didn't burn any oil with other oils that I've tried including M1 EP 10W-30, Havoline PRO DS 5W-30, Kirkland 5W-30, Castrol Euro 0W-40, and in older days, Chevron Supreme 5/10W-30, Castrol GTX Magnatec 5/10W-30.
It also burned oil with another full synthetic 5W-30 multiple times but I am not going to mention the brand. I am a M1 fan so I feel like it's not a real criticism but FS 0W-40 is like a family member I'm staying away for now. Lol

If you are looking for a good Euro oil, lately I have been buying bunch of Castrol Edge Euro Car 5W-30 on sale gor $24.xx/5qt with the following approvals:
A3/B4, BMW LL-01, MB 229.5/229.3, VW 505 00/502 00
Exceeds API SL.
Price per approval is very good.

That Toyota UR is a great engine. I'm sure you're on top of it, but I'd be very aggressive with the coolant changes every 50k. People are seeing some head gasket issues in engines without proper coolant changes.

Agree on approval = not burning oil!

I'm still trying to figure out the significance of the Euro approvals. Appreciate all the recs.

You know my adventures well from my oil burner thread. As you also know my thoughts have changed on using any synthetic oil at 5k mile oci’s. The Valvoline R&P 5w30 will work great in both vehicles and clean up if needed and keep things clean. You’re definitely severe service so keep oci’s 5k or under. ESP 0w30 is my current oil in everything and would also work great. It has very stringent approvals that concentrate on wear, sludge, oxidative thickening, and deposits.

As far a boutique's, probably in my next new car. Not sure it would benefit you in your circumstances.

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Thank you for the advice. Definitely leaning towards at least the 4 full OCIs on VRP.

I'd just do 5w30 VRP in each in shortish OCIs.

It's cheap enough you aren't breaking the bank to run short OCIs. It seems (in my experience) like it can clean up even 18 year old engines full of varnish.

If you had truly cold starts, I'd suggest running a couple OCIs of VRP and switching to ESP 0w-30. But if you don't need the 0w (and few of us do), then the 5w30 VRP is the easy button.

Coldest starts for me probably in the single digits in the mountains. Doubt I'd get below 0 but possible. Fortunately those days are behind me! Previously would have some -20F starts.

 

[Hohn]

at least the 5.7L doesn't have the notorious Valley Cover Plate issue of the 4.6L 1UR-FE. My GX460 has been an adventure in some great ways and some miserable ones.

 

[tired]

Just had another thought. After running some VRP prophylactically (I don't think either car burns oil), what about the AMSOIL synthetic blend? With the PC pricing, it's pretty close to the Walmart synthetic offerings, and even lower with gallon jugs and when you include the 5% rewards.

It would also support a small company (if AMSOIL still qualifies. They seem pretty big but apparently only have 315 employees.) and would inject a little money back into the local economy through my local rep.

I know it's a synthetic blend, but aren't all "full synthetics" because they contain group III base oils? And doesn't it contain esters?

I think with my fuel dilution from short tripping and stop and go traffic (I can smell gas when I pull the dipstick and when I drain the oil on both), I'm going to need to change minimum 6 months.

 

[D1dad]

This this and more of this! I learned this past winter after having to dump hpl and Schaeffer well before I got any sort of return on what I paid. I’ll use some of what I’ve got, mostly plain old pennzoil synthetic. Not platinum or ultra, just synthetic. @4-5k in an Ohio winter and any oil is going to be nasty. My plan of using hpl on a new car from 1k on is derailed.

Short tripping in the winter is detrimental and there is little reason to use an expensive oil. Your best defense is a short OCI.

 

[addyguy]

Another idea if you want to support Amsoil is the Amsoil HM oil.

 

[tired]

Another idea if you want to support Amsoil is the Amsoil HM oil.

I had not considered that one. Wasn't on my radar. I just knew syn blend, OE (doesn't like a good option honestly), XL, SS.

How does the HM stack up? How does it compare to a good oil with Euro approvals?

 

[Averroes]

For both of those engines I’d pass on the boutique oils, just my personal stance. They are a premium and do a phenomenal job no doubt. However you’re concerned about engine longevity right?

Truth be told. Doing 6month to a year OCI at 5000k miles will ensure you engines never die before the chassis rusting out or getting your car written off (God forbid).

If I were you, I’d stick to the VRP for the Nissan and the Toyota. You can bump up the weight if you’re not under warranty of any kind. Like others have said, you don’t need a 0w oil unless you’re somewhere in Canada or Alaska.

Oil filter is another discussion but I’d go with OEM or Carquest premium. For the trans fluid for both cars I’d stick to 40k miles or four years whatever comes first (peace of mind). Coolant drain and refill ever 4 - 5 years, along with the diff fluids. Brake fluid every two or three years. For the fluids I’d use Redline/Amsoil/HPL. Well, for brake I’d use ATE or whatever else since you’re not tracking the cars (would be weird if you did haha).

But seriously, 5k oil changes will make sure your engines live a long happy life. Lots of great advice here already. Oh if you’re a stickler for high HTHS numbers, then go with euro oils with Mercedes 229.5 approvals. In this case M1 0w40, Pennzoil Plat 5w40, or Castrol 0w40. Happy driving.

 

[tired]

For both of those engines I’d pass on the boutique oils, just my personal stance. They are a premium and do a phenomenal job no doubt. However you’re concerned about engine longevity right?

Truth be told. Doing 6month to a year OCI at 5000k miles will ensure you engines never die before the chassis rusting out or getting your car written off (God forbid).

If I were you, I’d stick to the VRP for the Nissan and the Toyota. You can bump up the weight if you’re not under warranty of any kind. Like others have said, you don’t need a 0w oil unless you’re somewhere in Canada or Alaska.

Oil filter is another discussion but I’d go with OEM or Carquest premium. For the trans fluid for both cars I’d stick to 40k miles or four years whatever comes first (peace of mind). Coolant drain and refill ever 4 - 5 years, along with the diff fluids. Brake fluid every two or three years. For the fluids I’d use Redline/Amsoil/HPL. Well, for brake I’d use ATE or whatever else since you’re not tracking the cars (would be weird if you did haha).

But seriously, 5k oil changes will make sure your engines live a long happy life. Lots of great advice here already. Oh if you’re a stickler for high HTHS numbers, then go with euro oils with Mercedes 229.5 approvals. In this case M1 0w40, Pennzoil Plat 5w40, or Castrol 0w40. Happy driving.

Thank you so much. Appreciate all the advice. Yes, my goal is just a clean, long lasting engine.

I am leaning towards the VRP every 6 months. Still trying to sort out the significance of HTHS and Euro approvals. It's discussed so much here, but actually why it matters eludes me. Perhaps better wear protection? Seems like maybe the API is biased towards fuel economy and Euro approvals towards wear protection (I think I read about a 650 hour engine wear test for BMW/VW? Can't remember.) Either way, going to do four OCIs with VRP to get it cleaned up and then decide.

I'm doing OEM for the Toyota and Carquest Premium for the Nissan. Thank you! (Was able to sort that recommendation out from all the posts on the oil filter forum without having to ask... once I figured out what Premium Guard referred to ha)

Fortunately I have a standard transmission on the Tundra, so that's easy. For the CVT on the Nissan, I've been aggressive on the service. I might try to do it myself next time. I had not considered non-OEM fluid for it though. Up to date on the brake fluid too.

Doing the diffs and T-case on the Tundra soon. It supposedly was done recently but I just want the peace of mind. Leaning towards AMSOIL. Asked about it here. Nissan is good to go for a while.

 

[kschachn]

Thank you so much. Appreciate all the advice. Yes, my goal is just a clean, long lasting engine.

I am leaning towards the VRP every 6 months. Still trying to sort out the significance of HTHS and Euro approvals. It's discussed so much here, but actually why it matters eludes me. Perhaps better wear protection? Seems like maybe the API is biased towards fuel economy and Euro approvals towards wear protection (I think I read about a 650 hour engine wear test for BMW/VW? Can't remember.) Either way, going to do four OCIs with VRP to get it cleaned up and then decide.

I'm doing OEM for the Toyota and Carquest Premium for the Nissan. Thank you! (Was able to sort that recommendation out from all the posts on the oil filter forum without having to ask... once I figured out what Premium Guard referred to ha)

Fortunately I have a standard transmission on the Tundra, so that's easy. For the CVT on the Nissan, I've been aggressive on the service. I might try to do it myself next time. I had not considered non-OEM fluid for it though. Up to date on the brake fluid too.

Doing the diffs and T-case on the Tundra soon. It supposedly was done recently but I just want the peace of mind. Leaning towards AMSOIL. Asked about it here. Nissan is good to go for a while.

I'm not sure you can draw that conclusion from just a licensing standpoint, wear is most strongly correlated to HT/HS and there are plenty of higher HT/HS oils that have API licenses.

European approvals used to concentrate on attributes associated with permitting a long-drain capability, such as deposit formation. There are also European approvals that have a focus on fuel economy (or CO2 which is typically the European metric).

 

[tired]

I'm not sure you can draw that conclusion from just a licensing standpoint, wear is most strongly correlated to HT/HS and there are plenty of higher HT/HS oils that have API licenses.

European approvals used to concentrate on attributes associated with permitting a long-drain capability, such as deposit formation. There are also European approvals that have a focus on fuel economy (or CO2 which is typically the European metric).

Bless. Thank you. Been trying to get to the bottom of that for a while.

 

[Speedy3861]

Don't make it over complicated, use either Mobil1 5W-30 EP or 5W-30 VRP, 5k intervals, your filter choices are fine. Both oils have good track records for both protection and cleaning and are easily available often on sale. The main concern is direct injection, the solution is more frequent changes and Toptier fuels.

 

[tired]

Don't make it over complicated, use either Mobil1 5W-30 EP or 5W-30 VRP, 5k intervals, your filter choices are fine. Both oils have good track records for both protection and cleaning and are easily available often on sale. The main concern is direct injection, the solution is more frequent changes and Toptier fuels.

Unfortunately stories like this make me worried about even M1 EP. I think I'd do ESP before EP.

 

[Azimuth]

@tiredguy Why don't you do a run or 2 with say VRP and then the same with a euro oil and get a UOA for each and look at the wear metals to make a decision?

 

[tired]

@tiredguy Why don't you do a run or 2 with say VRP and then the same with a euro oil and get a UOA for each and look at the wear metals to make a decision?

Definitely an option. I'm just not sure that I could draw any conclusion about the quality of the oils.

 

[D1dad]

I ran our 18 rogue to 85k on nothing but valvoline synthetic HM, 0-20. Since then I did a couple changes of schaeffers and am now using HPs 5-20. Car doesn’t use a drop @100k. I changed oil every 4-5k.

 

[tired]

Yeah I don't think the Nissan burns a drop either, from best I can tell. That's good to hear. I think I'm going to clean it up with VRP (if there is anything) and then make a decision from there.

Can I ask why the HPL? Do you think there's some value to be realized this late in the game?

I ran our 18 rogue to 85k on nothing but valvoline synthetic HM, 0-20. Since then I did a couple changes of schaeffers and am now using HPs 5-20. Car doesn’t use a drop @100k. I changed oil every 4-5k.

 

[D1dad]

I’ve got a change of HPL left that I may use in the rogue and see if it cleans anything. I’m sure I’ll get skewered for saying this, but I’ve tried it in 2 cars and didn’t like the way the engines sounded compared to those same engines using Torco and Schaeffers. Nothing technical, it is what it is.

 

[ARB1977]

Here’s my beloved 15 Tacoma 4.0L at 137K. Amsoil XL 5W30 most of its life with some runs with SS 5W30. 5500-7500 miles between changes.

 

[OilStainedNapkin]

Personally, I think Napa synthetic is solid oil and will serve both of these engines well. It’s currently on sale too. Check out the lake speed video where he compares it to amsoil and royal purple

 

[tired]

View attachment 273412Here’s my beloved 15 Tacoma 4.0L at 137K. Amsoil XL 5W30 most of its life with some runs with SS 5W30. 5500-7500 miles between changes.

Looks brand new, man.

How did you decide on XL vs SS?