gathermewool
Site Donor 2023
How will the additives prevent carbon buildup on the backs of valves in a GDI motor?
The world wonders.
Apparently the same way EGR-less systems work...VVT/overlap
How will the additives prevent carbon buildup on the backs of valves in a GDI motor?
The world wonders.
Good point on the oil filter!
I know higher viscosity oils than OE recommended have been discussed on quite frequently, but I’m not so keen on doing it on newer engines going to 0w20 or even 0w16. Mainly for the reason of the timing chains as PimTac had mentioned. Also on that issue is variable cam timing setups. The ECM is looking for and is programmed for specific pressures based on the oil viscosity. Changing oil viscosity can and will effect that system. By how much? Too many variables to account for, every manufacture and engine is different.
and what if I told you the same engine specs elsewhere in the world calls for 5w30 and other viscosities notwithstanding 0w20...simple CAFE garbage is at play here in US of A
If one is really worried about mechanical shear then an oil with an approval that has demonstrated shear stability would be appropriate.
I haven't seen all these massively sheared full synthetic 5w30's.... Do you want a 9cst oil that shears to 7.5cst, or a 10.5cst oil that shears to 9cst?
Sorry I've been gone for a min guys, life gets busy as you know.
To my knowledge the FA24 is only available in North America in the Ascent, Outback XT and Legacy XT as of right now with rumors of a Forster XT soon. So there are no global standards to compare to as far this engine is concerned.
I realize that increasing the oil weight most likely will not have a negative impact on anything, but I'm not sure that it would have significant enough benefits for a daily driven street car that may see full throttle a couple times a month. Maybe I'm not well enough educated on the oil weight subject but I believe the main advantage would be to the engine bearings and during extreme service/heat.
No one to my knowledge has enough mechanical knowledge of this engine in regards to bearing clearances and long term testing yet besides Subaru. I know Prime Motoring has swapped an FA24 into a Crosstrek with a 6spd manual on E85, stock injectors, threw it on the dyno and continued to flog it for over 50 dyno runs over 3 days (so very little cool down time, if any) before running too lean and putting a hole through a piston. They ran the non-synthetic oil that came in the engine throughout the whole session and besides melting a piston they did not note any other damages to the engine. So I would assume that 0w-20 is plenty capable of handling engine load. Granted this isn't long term or being at 4500k into an oil change and then flogging it. But I feel like too much emphasis is put on oil weight for normal driving with stock engines. Again, I could be very wrong. This is just how I understand it currently.
I know I'm overthinking a simple subject that someone else has probably discussed already. But thats why we are all on this forum in the first place. We are nerds that can't simply just put any old oil in our cars, we are always looking for the best. You can't deny that.
Come back when you have a reasonable number of UOAs and not the few their. SOPUS and generic oils doesn't draw a conclusion for all.
And, if that engine is that tough on oil, I'd step up my recommendation to a euro/hdeo >3.5HTHS 30 grade.
Do you want to wait to find out what misengineerings an engine has?
A new engine comes out.... similar engineering from all the previous engines. Will it be just as iffy as some of the previous engines? or as good as newer engines from all the other automakers with similar technology?
So, if the vehicle is a keeper, and for most owners vehicles are disposal, make the adjustment with grades/intervals/filters for your driving style/location/expectations
Dyno doesn't include soccer mom short tripping and/or excessive idling, winter usage, and or excessive restarts.. Dyno floggin' is useless and meaningless. Theta-ii, Hyundai's headache, was dyno flogged/tested and ended up being a lemon.
A decade from now, maybe someone should bump this thread concerning the common issues this engine might have...
Does it have a timing chain/vvt/? Bet it will be common wear point
Does it have GDI? fuel dilution? IVD deposits? oil consumption from ring crud? Place your bets!
Does it have a good amount of boost and/or compression ratio and still recommend regular fuel?
Are the intervals extended like some automakers or did Subaru take a safe(hint) time/mileage interval, and why?
I haven't seen all these massively sheared full synthetic 5w30's.... Do you want a 9cst oil that shears to 7.5cst, or a 10.5cst oil that shears to 9cst?
And, bypass PSI on the filter is a fools argument. Don't use that filter because its lower/higher/whatever concerning bypass is silly.
I guess a decade or so from now we will know whether Subaru built a good engine. Until then, do want you want and reap what you sow.
I was looking all over the place for the 229.71, C5 and Dexos 1 Gen 2 and stumbled into this oil also. I will be using this in my moms Forester and my 1.5Turbo DI equinoxCastrol Edge Extended Performance 0w20 (Gold Bottle)
API SP rated and is has the Mercedes Benz 229.71 approval, good luck finding a 0w20 with a high level European approval like that for less.
My beater Subaru had over 200k miles and it lived a hard life. I know it wasn't taken care of very well before I got it, but lasted me 4 years with what ever decent oil was on sale. It guzzled about 1 quart every 2 months. had very loud piston slap, still got great MPG, and never failed on me. Rear-wheel bearings and rust finally took it off the road. I did have some success quieting the piston slap by using Restore. It went from 2 8lb sledgehammers down to 2 framing hammers but didn't last long. I put over 50k with it and would still be driving but it cost too much to repair. I would not overthink the oil just use a brand name 5W-30 and be happy.While I do agree with that for the most part. I do tend to overthink things with random topics on vehicles (mainly lighting) and especially being a new car I want to ensure that I do everything possible to keep it going for as long as possible or as long as we own it.
My 01 Outback has 220k-ish and I’ve had it for about 2 years. Has had piston slap since I got it. Hasn’t gotten worse and still keeps truckin. I’m sure the PO’s put whatever oil in that the shop put in and probably didn’t follow OCI’s very strictly. Lol
My beater Subaru had over 200k miles and it lived a hard life. I know it wasn't taken care of very well before I got it, but lasted me 4 years with what ever decent oil was on sale. It guzzled about 1 quart every 2 months. had very loud piston slap, still got great MPG, and never failed on me. Rear-wheel bearings and rust finally took it off the road. I did have some success quieting the piston slap by using Restore. It went from 2 8lb sledgehammers down to 2 framing hammers but didn't last long. I put over 50k with it and would still be driving but it cost too much to repair. I would not overthink the oil just use a brand name 5W-30 and be happy.