yeah, there's science behind my decision - fewer vapors meaning less carbon buildup. You have yet to even form your point, so far debating yourselfI need before and after.
Quality oil for Subaru Ascent FA2.4F
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Point is my "solution" works great. Evidence: zero carbon issues in use. Other VW owners have carbon-cleaned their 1.8T GDI during my ownership period. Maybe you should try it.
You’ve disassembled it and saw for yourself? That’d be a good evidence. Can you explain it to me, how exactly the additive makes it on top of the valves to clean them?
edyvw
$50 site donor 2025
Any Euro W30 oil.
I have zero issues, why would I tear it apart - that is what I use the additives to prevent doing!
Magic. Just like your Noack.
OP - we need you to settle this, as we've sidetracked your thread too long. Flip a coin and let us know who "won" the internet today.
You just presented the purest evidence you don't understand what you're talking about. I think we're done
What are the advantages of a Euro oil compared to standard synthetics?
edyvw
$50 site donor 2025
You have numerous topics here, but pretty much they are more "stout" in every aspect. You will take 1% hit in MPG.
Look for oil with MB229.52 approval. Mobil1 ESP 5W30, Motul X-Clean+ 5W30.
It’s not really about the base stock but more about the stringent manufacturer approvals the oil may meet. The approvals demonstrate and document the oil’s performance.
Haha! I think I’d have to side with most of your points surfstar made.
Though SlavaB I see what you’re getting getting at. Not all engines, fuel systems and even DI setups are made the same. There are so many variables it makes it difficult to say for sure that something that helps one vehicle may not help a different one. But these additives are only going to help, even if it’s minimal.
The way I’m looking at this info is what surfstar is saying is that it certainly won’t hurt to run those additives and seeing as the additives are $60 or less, it’s cheap insurance over the long run. Sure I could use redline, eneos, motul or royal purple at $60+ an oil change. Or I can get PP or M1, add the additives and save $30+ an oil change.
That’s how I see it.
I tried to keep it specific to the oil that would best protect the engine over the long haul. My main concern is preventing carbon build up as this is the first DI engine I have owned.
I did change topics to adding an oil catch can, but it has gotten side tracked from others as well. I’m still somewhat new to this forum.
edyvw
$50 site donor 2025
Then, again, MB229.52.
Well you have at least 2 adults here that just “feel” it. Reminds of a recent post where someone claimed they feel the difference in the throttle response when Redline is used
yeah it is minimal, like 0%
the only thing it helps with is injectors
Honestly I'm surprised we still have to argue over this even after I've presented the DI engine structure diagram up there.
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wemay
Site Donor 2023
OP, as you're noticing in real time here, BITOG is all about splitting hairs. All you really need is an SP/GF-6 oil in the recommended viscosity. You can also choose Euro oils and/or different viscosity if you like as it's doubtful they'd cause any issue. Lots of good oils out there.
Wemay is a living proof that the oil decision is not as important, probably ran everything but 0w16 in that Passat
wemay
Site Donor 2023
...and without trying to hijack the thread, I've got 6qts of 508 waiting for the next fill in the VWWemay is a living proof that the oil decision is not as important, probably ran everything but 0w16 in that Passat
and what if I told you the same engine specs elsewhere in the world calls for 5w30 and other viscosities notwithstanding 0w20...simple CAFE garbage is at play here in US of A
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