Quality oil for Subaru Ascent FA2.4F

[TacoFergie]

Looking to find the highest quality oil within reason considering price. I have a 2021 Subaru Ascent with the FA24F direct injection 2.4L turbo. I want to keep this vehicle in great shape as we tend to keep our vehicles 10+ years. I live in Iowa so we experience -20F to 100F temps. We typically drive about 10k-12k a yr so I generally have done 5K OCI’s and will stick with that. I use Subaru oil filters from the dealer as well to ensure it is not a fake. The manual calls for ISLAC GF-6 0w20, which seems to be the most specific requirement among the other listings. What I am most concerned with is carbon build up, extreme and heat resistance regarding the turbo. The oils I am considering are based on research done mostly here.

Idemitsu 0w20
TMGO 0w20 (Toyota, though I haven’t seen GF-6 on the label)
Penzoil Platinum or Ultra Platinum 0w20
Schaffer’s 9000 0w20
Valvoline Modern Engine 0w20

So far these have been on the top of my list, if you have other suggestions I’m all ears. Question is, if it was your vehicle what would run??

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Use whatever d1g2 is on sale

PP is a great choice.

 

[PimTac]

They don’t make Valvoline Modern Engine any longer so you can scratch that one.

Any major brand will run fine. Pennzoil has two N’s. The Idemitsu is a good oil as well.

 

[wemay]

No issue with your choices except Valvoline Modern Engine is no more. SuperTECH is a quality motor oil as is any API SP/GF-6 d1G2 as well.

Congrats on that nice Subie.

 

[SatinSilver]

M1 EP 0w20 would be at the top of my list. Not to say I wouldn’t use other oils already mentioned.

 

[JoelB]

I think "highest quality oil" is a myth. Pick the oil with the proper certification and a bottle shape you like, heck even your favorite color. You and the engine won't know the difference.

 

[ka9mnx]

Any off-the-shelf modern synthetic oil that meets spec will make the engine outlast the body in Iowa.

 

[TacoFergie]

They don’t make Valvoline Modern Engine any longer so you can scratch that one.

Any major brand will run fine. Pennzoil has two N’s. The Idemitsu is a good oil as well.

Thank you, I did not realize the Valvoline was not made anymore. I found it on their site but I didn’t check store availability. Sorry about the misspelling on Pennzoil as well.

No issue with your choices except Valvoline Modern Engine is no more. SuperTECH is a quality motor oil as is any API SP/GF-6 d1G2 as well.

Congrats on that nice Subie.

I didn’t realize that SuperTECH was a decent brand. I have always pushed it aside as I tend to think of it as a low quality oil.

Thank you for the kind words. It’s been amazing so far. So far just a set of wheels, Diode Dynamics SS3 Pro SAE selective yell fog lights and soon I’ll be ordering a COBB AccessPort. That’s about all I’ll be doing.

M1 EP 0w20 would be at the top of my list. Not to say I wouldn’t use other oils already mentioned.

I did use M1 0w20 on my first oil change. I changed it at 1k miles and I am close to changing it again. I’m guessing the EP stands for European blend? If so, what are the advantages of using that over standard?

I think my biggest concern is carbon build up being a DI engine and not having port injectors like Toyota has been doing.

 

[TacoFergie]

Any off-the-shelf modern synthetic oil that meets spec will make the engine outlast the body in Iowa.

Ain’t that the truth!!! Once it gets consistently warmer out I’m going to do some corrosion prevention via fluid film. Seems to be doing great on my 2015 Tacoma.

 

[PimTac]

The main thing to look for is the GF6/SP rating. That’s the latest and gives better protection for timing chains.

 

[Greasymechtech]

If it were mine, I would run any full synthetic current spec 5w30 along with any full synthetic oil filter. Since you're in a cold climate, you could time the 6month interval for 0w20 winter usage. Consider Dexos, 508, or C20 oils for 0w20!

I'd also install a magnetic drainplug. And, even though filter placement isn't spill proof, I would still prefill it about 1/2 way.

 

[TacoFergie]

I think "highest quality oil" is a myth. Pick the oil with the proper certification and a bottle shape you like, heck even your favorite color. You and the engine won't know the difference.

While I do agree with that for the most part. I do tend to overthink things with random topics on vehicles (mainly lighting) and especially being a new car I want to ensure that I do everything possible to keep it going for as long as possible or as long as we own it.

My 01 Outback has 220k-ish and I’ve had it for about 2 years. Has had piston slap since I got it. Hasn’t gotten worse and still keeps truckin. I’m sure the PO’s put whatever oil in that the shop put in and probably didn’t follow OCI’s very strictly. Lol

 

[ka9mnx]

EP stands for Extended Performance (long drain intervals among others).

 

[kschachn]

While I do agree with that for the most part. I do tend to overthink things with random topics on vehicles (mainly lighting) and especially being a new car I want to ensure that I do everything possible to keep it going for as long as possible or as long as we own it.

My 01 Outback has 220k-ish and I’ve had it for about 2 years. Has had piston slap since I got it. Hasn’t gotten worse and still keeps truckin. I’m sure the PO’s put whatever oil in that the shop put in and probably didn’t follow OCI’s very strictly. Lol

Piston slap isn't caused by the oil nor is it cured by one.

 

[JoelB]

My point isn't to discourage your search. Many here overthink these things, including myself. But it helps me stay grounded knowing that the fact is the brand you pick really won't make much difference as long as you've gotten the correct specs.

If one oil makes you feel like you've done better for your motor, then run it happily. There's nothing wrong with placebo as long as you are aware of it.

 

[TacoFergie]

If it were mine, I would run any full synthetic current spec 5w30 along with any full synthetic oil filter. Since you're in a cold climate, you could time the 6month interval for 0w20 winter usage. Consider Dexos, 508, or C20 oils for 0w20!

I'd also install a magnetic drainplug. And, even though filter placement isn't spill proof, I would still prefill it about 1/2 way.

Good point on the oil filter!

I know higher viscosity oils than OE recommended have been discussed on quite frequently, but I’m not so keen on doing it on newer engines going to 0w20 or even 0w16. Mainly for the reason of the timing chains as PimTac had mentioned. Also on that issue is variable cam timing setups. The ECM is looking for and is programmed for specific pressures based on the oil viscosity. Changing oil viscosity can and will effect that system. By how much? Too many variables to account for, every manufacture and engine is different.

 

[TacoFergie]

Piston slap isn't caused by the oil nor is it cured by one.

Absolutely! I am curious what does cause it. I haven’t done any research, just know it’s common in the older ones. It’s annoying and sometimes embarrassing. But for a $700 beater car, I’m not going to complain. If it fails, I’ll find a cheap replacement engine. Lol

 

[SlavaB]

I guess there’s really 3 tiers here.
1. Full synthetic - M1, Castrol, PP
2. Extended range oils - M1 EP, Edge golden bottle
3. M1 ESP 0w20 which is harder to find
Will you benefit from using one over another? I doubt it. Will you have fun trying to figure it out? Hell yeah

 

[TacoFergie]

My point isn't to discourage your search. Many here overthink these things, including myself. But it helps me stay grounded knowing that the fact is the brand you pick really won't make much difference as long as you've gotten the correct specs.

If one oil makes you feel like you've done better for your motor, then run it happily. There's nothing wrong with placebo as long as you are aware of it.

I hear ya. I tend to research things to death. Usually circling back to my original plan, wasting a bunch of time.

 

[Greasymechtech]

Read the owners manual. If 0w20 isn't available, use a 5w30 blah blah but switch back to 0w20.... conventional can be used if synthetic isn't available blah blah blah....some of the same silly CAFE wording that Toyota uses...
I don't care for Pimtac opinion on timing chains. And, the VVT system isn't going to care if you step up 1 grade from the 0w20, as allowed in the manual. Subaru, like Toyota, doesn't purposely program failure because of oil viscosity unlike a couple domestic manufacturers.
So, I would just use a synthetic 5w30 year round permanently.