New guy needs help.

[gcextreme]

Ok im looking for some advice on oils to run in my truck and wifes car.
Ive been running regular Valvoline 10w30 in both vehicles for a while and the miles are getting up there. Thinking about switching to full synthetic..

First vehicle is a 1999 Ford Ranger 3.0 auto, ext cab 4x4.
The rebuilt 3.0 engine now has about 72k miles on it and the rebuilt transmission has about 35k miles on it.

The second vehicle is a 2004 Pontiac GrandAm 3400 (3.4L V6) auto with 103k miles on it.

I do as much maintenance on them as i can, from wheel bearings, brakes, spark plugs, oil changes, etc.

I live in Minnesota, so freezing winter temps play a big factor.
Both vehicles sit outside in the freezing weather.
The Ranger has a block heater and battery blanket.
The GrandAm has a block heater and a remote start.

Thanks for any oil advice and experience u can offer.

 

[901Memphis]

Ranger has been back specd to 5w20, you can run a 0w20 like Mobil 1 AFE for easier cold starts and fuel mileage or if you don't want to try Pennzoil Platinum 5w30.

The Pontiac will run fine on any 5w30 synthetic or conventional I have Pennzoil Platinum in my Buick which is very similar to your 3.4. I hope you have updated the intake gaskets to rubber and metal or be prepared for that soon. The cooling systems on the 3.1/3.4 need a lot of love.

 

[gcextreme]

The wife has had the pontiac since before i met her, over 4 yrs. Hasnt had any real issues, but i did just have the thermostat and sensor replaced.
Otherwise she runs great..just put in a new battery.
The new autostart is having issues tho. Sometimes when we start it..it will start and run for 2-3 seconds then die...other times it works just fine. It was just installed before christmas...its going back in on monday to be looked at.

I will keep a lookout on those gaskets..are they hard to replace?

 

[volk06]

Definitely switch to a 5w30. Maxlife would be a great option for your vehicles since you're a valvoline fan.

 

[earlyre]

I wouldn't Run 10w anything in a MN winter, drop down to a 5wX at least, if not 0wX.
anymore, the conventials are so good, the only good reason to switch to a full syn, is if you are wanting to extend your intervals.
not to mention they can be a bit pricier than conventionals.

start off with an easy switch, like a good conventional 5w30 in both. You said you've been using Valvoline, try theirs, or Pennzoil, or Quaker State, or Mobil Super 5000, etc.
you didn't mention it, but just to put it out there, no need for the "High Mileage" stuff, unless you are burning more oil than you're comfortable with.
my

 

[Ayrton]

5w30 would probably be a smart move as suggested especially in your climate.

A conventional would be fine. Pennzoil Yellow Bottle or Mobil Super are two of my favorite conventional. Valvoline White Bottle is fine too (or the Nextgen which is equivalent).

However, going to Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum won't cost much more at a place like WM, if you have a desire to try full synthetic. Mobil 1 0w-30 is a really popular choice especially in a climate like yours but of course the 5w-30 would be good too. Small warning, synthetics will not cause leaks, but if you have a small leak already or one about to form, it could make it a bit worse.

I probably would try synthetics, especially in the 2004, but it's up to you.

 

[dparm]

Originally Posted By: volk06
Definitely switch to a 5w30. Maxlife would be a great option for your vehicles since you're a valvoline fan.



I see no need for MaxLife. The mileage on those vehicles is quite low given their age.

 

[901Memphis]

Originally Posted By: gcextreme


I will keep a lookout on those gaskets..are they hard to replace?



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n4UJSF_hcNs


I looked on repairpal.com for 55402 zip code and it would cost approx 685-980$ for the gaskets to be replaced.

Keep and eye on the coolant level regularly, maybe even do a UOA to check for small leaks, cuz when they go they overheat. Ask me how i know

 

[bigt61]

5W-30 Maxlife blend in both. It will give you the benefits of a semi synthetic and good cold starts. Full synthetic in older cars that have never run them before is a leak waiting to happen.

 

[Oil Changer]

Leave that Max Life junk on the shelf for another unsuspecting consumer. Forget about the back spec. 0W-30 M1 AFE for both in the winter and M1 5W-30 through the summer if your routine allows for tice a year oil changes.

 

[gcextreme]

I change the oil in my ranger every 3,000 miles. As for the wifes grandam..i try but its hard to keep an eye on it with her schedule. This last oil change was at 3500..butnher "change oil" light didnt even come on..

She drives her car 8 miles to work and back every day..then 70 miles to work every other weekend, where she stays and works with her parents.

My truck gets driven maybe 1 mile to work...i try to drive my atv to work as much as i can..but in the winter it sucks..i hate driving my truck that short of a distance. Then indrive it 16 miles to town twice a week to go workout at the gym..

 

[WiskyBadger]

Originally Posted By: gcextreme
The wife has had the pontiac since before i met her, over 4 yrs. Hasnt had any real issues, but i did just have the thermostat and sensor replaced.
Otherwise she runs great..just put in a new battery.
The new autostart is having issues tho. Sometimes when we start it..it will start and run for 2-3 seconds then die...other times it works just fine. It was just installed before christmas...its going back in on monday to be looked at.

I will keep a lookout on those gaskets..are they hard to replace?

I really like the way Quaker State Ultimate Durabilty ran in our 3.4. That's what it's getting at the next change. You can get it for a good price at Wal mart. The gaskets aren't the hardest job just time consuming. My brother and I did them on our Impala. We were seeing just small amounts of coolant disappearing.

 

[jamesyarbrough]

Originally Posted By: Oil Changer
Leave that Max Life junk on the shelf for another unsuspecting consumer. Forget about the back spec. 0W-30 M1 AFE for both in the winter and M1 5W-30 through the summer if your routine allows for tice a year oil changes.


+1 M1 0W30 for both, although I would use it year round.

 

[fdcg27]

I believe that the LIM problem on GM V-6 engines was solved by the '04 MY, so you may not have any problems with that.
If you were going to see problems, I think you'd have seen them by now.
Just be aware that the only warning you'll get will be that the oil will look like chocolate milk and the situation needs to be dealt with ASAP, since coolant isn't friendly to bearings and coolant in the oil results in sludge.
Some aftermarket remote start setups don't play well with some vehicle anti-theft systems.
You may not be able to keep the remote start.
You've provided for heating of the engines in both of these vehicles, which is probably what enables them to start without issue on very cold mornings.
What happened to the Vulcan in the Ranger to make it need a rebuilt engine?
The 3.0 Ford V-6 is usually about as reliable and unfussy as an engine can get this side of a flathead lawnmower.
The only typical failure I know of in these engines involves the cam synchronizer.
I'd go to a 5W-30 in your climate for both engines.
You can stay with Valvoline or try any number of other oils.
For the way you use your truck, the short OCIs you're doing might be appropriate.

 

[WiskyBadger]

It was still a issue for 04, I had to do it on our Impala.

 

[gcextreme]

I bought the ranger in 05 with 118k and two years later at 128k i had a spark plug detonate..damaged the cylinder/valve/piston...i was just out of college and still making payment on the truck..had a remanned block put in.

And i think i am running 5w30 in both...i know i switch from 5w to 10w for diff seasons..

Right now i have another 3.0 vulcan im working on to drop into my other ranger truck.
Ive got the 99 which is my red nice truck and a white 98 that i got cheap and want to get running as a winter beater.

Heres the red 99.

Heres the wifes pontiac

Heres the white 98 ranger..got it for $500. Picked up another 3.0 engine and tranny for it for $400.

 

[earlyre]

Autobot Badges! Nice.
currently shopping for parts to Re-badge My Mercury as an Autobot. The Vibe in my sig, (my buddy's car) has a big Decepticon decal on the hood.
I bought the badges to re-do the neon when i had it, but never actually switched 'em over.

 

[gcextreme]

Yeah i made the badges myself...i do custom vinyl graphics, shirts, hats, and custom etched glass and other stuff..its my small home based business, do it in my spare time, still have a full time job as a service tech mechanic.

 

[gcextreme]

So should i switch over to that Mobile 0w30??
Also what oil filter do u recommend...?
I know alot of people HATE FRAM!!
But i have always used the Fram ToughGuard filters, and changed them as close to 3K as i could, never had any issue..

 

[jamesyarbrough]

Originally Posted By: gcextreme
So should i switch over to that Mobile 0w30??
Also what oil filter do u recommend...?
I know alot of people HATE FRAM!!
But i have always used the Fram ToughGuard filters, and changed them as close to 3K as i could, never had any issue..


M1 0W30 is a good oil and a good match. The fram....not so much. Buy purolator, bosch, wix or motorcraft. Better value and higher quality.