Just bought Royal Purple 0w-40 even though I am a Mobil 1 guy because....

Oil change is done :D
We need to see purple evidence...... :ROFLMAO:

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This is the first time since I bought the car I feel really good about my oil fill:
-Original fill was 0w-20 and would have extra metal shavings in them ( as we all know)
- 2nd fill at 1061 miles I kept at 0w-20, it was still in US, but when the oil chnage was done at a local lube stop, I found out their 0w-20 was "Mobil 0w-20" not "Mobil 1 0w-20". :oops: Clearly a non flagship oil.
- That got replaced only 4000 miles later, at a local Nissan dealer here in Germany with Nissan 5w-40, a known good oil. Should quite good yes? BUT they waited SO LONG (90 minutes!!!) before they drained the old oil that I am sure many of the contaminants had settled to the bottom of the oil pan and would not be drained out. Plus at 5041 miles I still expected a certain amount of shaving to be in there and those certainly settled after such a long wait.
-Now finally the oil was drained on this one quickly, after I pulled up (at the small auto shop on base), ensuring any particuates whetehr metal shavings or silicon from dirty air drained out with it.
So now I feel good about leaving this fill in the car, for 6000 miles or so, maybe even longer.
 
This is the first time since I bought the car I feel really good about my oil fill:
-Original fill was 0w-20 and would have extra metal shavings in them ( as we all know)
- 2nd fill at 1061 miles I kept at 0w-20, it was still in US, but when the poil chnage was done I found out their ow-20 was "Mobil 0w-20" not "Mobil 1 0w-20". Clearly a non flagship oil.
- That got replaced only 4000 miles later at a local Nissan dealer her ein Germany with Nissan 5w-40. Should quite good yes? BUT they waited SO LONG (90 minutes!!!) before they drained the oil that I am sure many of the contaminants had settled to the bottom of the oil pan and would not be drained out.

If the contaminants settled to the bottom of the oil pan why wouldn’t they be drained out? The plug is at the bottom of the pan so they are going to come out no matter when it’s drained.
 
If the contaminants settled to the bottom of the oil pan why wouldn’t they be drained out? The plug is at the bottom of the pan so they are going to come out no matter when it’s drained.
I belive typically there is an elevation at the top of the drain plug.
there was a vid on this a while ago. I might find an link it.
Also a oil that stood for a long time not draining out contaminants as well as conventional wisdom?
is conventional wisdom wrong I would be willing to be educated.
Even so, it is certainly not best practices to wait long until draining the oil IMHO.
 
At the end of the day I don’t think it matters that much if you drain the oil scalding hot or totally cold. We’re splitting hairs here, much like how some people would let the oil drain for a full hour just to get 1 extra ounce of oil out.
HaHa but this is BITOG , we obessess about such things here. 😁
 
HaHa but this is BITOG , we obessess about such things here. 😁
Sooo. subjectivly my engine sounds a lot better on cold starts now.
maybe the 0w-40 is enough of a difference to show vs the 5w-40, from a viscosity perspective.
or the RP Synerlec component RP talks about, is not just snake oil, but really does something in coating internals...
 
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I've only bought RP once two jugs and why it was on sale at Walmart for $20 a jug. Beside after 200 miles it wasn't purple anymore so I wasn't impressed!
 
Its a long backstory but a number of times RP did not get the latest /greatest certification because their oils were actually more robust than competitors oils. RP made a better oil, and people here irrationally hated it, despite never using it. Once the RP hate bandwagon got rolling it was impossible to stop. They could not figure out RP actally had a better additive package, but RP was bashed for being "behind the times". At some point, RP decided to go ahead and get the latest certifications, and their oil was not as robust as before. That didn't matter to many posters though, the hate was still just as intense.

Point of this is, don't let that 2018 fit chart throw you. RP is still a very fine oil. Use with confidence.
I've exclusively used RP in my Mazda Rx-7 race car. They claim cleaner burn especially in rotary engines. I've used their gear oil as my gsl has a lsd and their gear oil has the additive already in it, no measuring or mixing.
 
Its a long backstory but a number of times RP did not get the latest /greatest certification because their oils were actually more robust than competitors oils. RP made a better oil, and people here irrationally hated it, despite never using it. Once the RP hate bandwagon got rolling it was impossible to stop. They could not figure out RP actally had a better additive package, but RP was bashed for being "behind the times". At some point, RP decided to go ahead and get the latest certifications, and their oil was not as robust as before. That didn't matter to many posters though, the hate was still just as intense.

Point of this is, don't let that 2018 fit chart throw you. RP is still a very fine oil. Use with confidence.
Had RP changed ownership? I was under the impression to stay away from the Walmart Dexos line and only buy the HMX or HPS grades of their oil.
 
I scored some hps 5-20 on the cheap. My cars all take 0-20 so I’ll give it a run next summer and fall. Appears to be good oil based off of what I’ve read. That’s all I know of royal purple.
 
Had RP changed ownership? I was under the impression to stay away from the Walmart Dexos line and only buy the HMX or HPS grades of their oil.
They changed owners alright. As for the rest of your question I think that is more of the delusion seekers who run around spouting that. I have heard those same sentiments, however. And I have not 1 dog in the hunt for RP. Never used it. Couple buddies did years ago.
 
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