How much $$ do you usually put into your cars?

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Add a starter to my list...and an optima red top to the wife's.

Picking up my starter at the local shop and her battery died in the parking lot. It was shockingly the original...so rather than even test it, replaced it with a new redtop.

My starter died in my shop, her battery died at the parts store... I've still never been left in a bind by one of these vehicles. Replacing the AC compressor this week...500$ for OEM and a flush/recharge. 400 for aftermarket... all because the stupid previous owner pumped it to Max fill when it was 10 degrees outside, naturally it [censored] out as soon as it hit 100.

I guess that further raises my total... but guess what, with a berrymans piston soak, and a dose of Mobil super high mileage 5w30... my oil usage had disappeared. Coming up on 200k in the next few weeks. Plan to keep it until it dies, then a new motor. At this rate it'll be 400k...
 
I think I figured out once that I had spent about $6k in repairs on my Jetta. Wheel bearings, struts, clutch, turbo, some brake work and some misc stuff. That's about $52/month, or 2cents/mile.

When I bought the car I was hoping for 3yr/100k before anything needed anything (and it took 3 years to hit 100kmiles). I'm not sure if I can say that it was $1k/year in repairs, or if I should divide that $6k by 9 years...
 
I figured it out.

Excluding maintenance that is prescribed in the owners manual:

$35/month for a 8yr old/155,000 mile old Subaru Legacy turbo. I use a Subie specialist who charges $60/hr labor and parts at retail.

0-100k --> spent $400 on bushings in suspension
105k --> throw out bearing failed for $800(got new clutch too)
140k-155k --> starter, alternator, valve cover gasket, ignition coil, seized caliper about $2000
 
Originally Posted By: KitaCam
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Originally Posted By: KitaCam
Reading here of a lot of DiYers....nice...but unrealistic for most people...1/2 the cost of a lot of repairs done at indie shops, even less than work done at dealers....keep that in mind...(tbm3's clutch/suspension for example was 1/2 of my Altima's clutch + CV joints)...


That's is true. But having the work done by someone else is not the problem with high costs IMO. I think the biggest problem is uneducated customers agreeing to unneeded repairs or services, or like OP, letting a lot of more expensive maintenance items or some repairs pile up to the point where it costs a good chunk of money to get everything done.


Well, I agree with you....still, one has to consider/calculate those "high cost" repairs against how long they last...i.e. per mile/per year...and whether they will indeed "pile up" as you say...as I said earlier, it's time time replace rather than repair when those costs equal what it would cost in monthly payments on a much newer car with fewer miles...in my case 1/2 as old with 1/2 the miles...and would rather make those consistent (reliable
frown.gif
)payments on a more reliable
smile.gif
car....



Did a quick review of costs over 10 years/145k miles on my last car (from 50k to 195k miles) and they cost about $7,500, or $62.5/mo, .05¢/mi (1,200mi/mo)........as I look back, half was spent over the 1st 7 years/100k miles, half spend over the last 3 years/30k miles...when I had to keep it regardless...

$7500 added to initial cost of $8500 equals the cost of the car ('99 Altima) when new before any repairs/maintenance...my anticipated savings...

$65/mo is half monthly payments I'm paying now...but for the last 3 years I paid 2x that so THAT equaled monthly payments I'm paying now on a car half as old with half the miles

per mile costs...approximately...
.05 repairs + .15 gas + .10 insurance + .04 depreciation = .34/mi or about $400/mo...about $5,000/yr
vs $9,000 AAA estimates* new car costs/year are for someone in my income bracket (revised from $2.25/gal to $3.50/gal gas)

5¢ is AAA est. for maintenance costs over 150k miles/8 years ** so one might expect that to be more for owning a car beyond that.

The Kitacam will cost a lot less due to lower initial cost, (and thus with less depreciation), fewer miles driven, and I believe, being a better made car bought in better condition...only time and miles will tell....

sources of auto costs... There are more sites of estimates but these are pretty concise and relevant...
* http://www.investopedia.com/articles/pf/08/cost-car-ownership.asp

** http://www.autoblog.com/2012/05/04/average-cost-of-car-ownership-rises-to-8-946-per-year/

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/under-the-hood/cost-of-car-ownership/auto-maintenance-cost.htm
 
I guess we're spoiled with our Escape. In the 7 years we've owned it nothing but maintenance items in that time. Maybe $20 a month if you figure those. The Focus on the other hand.. $1100 to fix the AC last spring and 3 sensors less that $20. Now need new struts/spring up front and new tires all around so that's be 400ish. I guess we're at around $100 all together. Guess can't complain it was free for the most part and runs and drives good. It did set for 2-3 years.. hard to find something with no issues after setting.
 
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Scanning through this thread there are two factors that I didn't see anyone bring up.

First is the enjoyment of driving a vehicle. For those that really enjoy driving a tight quiet car, that's usually a factor in trading in periodically. I don't think anyone will do the replacements necessary (nor is it in any way cost effective) to keep a car as tight as it was in its first 50k miles of life. And that means putting up with a less refined drive. I get the sense most of the dollars and cents folks chiming up on here are those that find little enjoyment in driving and are just looking for the cheapest way to get from A to B.

Second is the stress that comes with trying to diagnose problems and finding the time (or money) to flush them out. I suspect most folks just live with them as long as they don't seriously impair driving saftey, but for me they always stick in the back of my mind as just another problem that eventually has to get dealt with.
 
I like driving. But I like money too. I've found that driving takes money from my wallet which could be doing other things, and vehicle replacement is the most expensive line item thus far, for me. I balance out costs, hoping for a low cost per mile, and low frustration per mile. It's getting to the point where one can rightfully expect a vehicle to last 10 years in the rustbelt; and maybe even more with some basic care. Not buying every 5 years means saving money for, well, other stuff.

Part of what drives my high costs is my high miles. I was driving 32k/year. Now it's down to about 25k, and now even less, as I'm splitting miles across three vehicles.
 
We just have put in nearly $2k into the Tracker over the last month... Before that its needed maybe $100-200/year of work done on it so it hurt a bit!
I think now we are commited to it for a while though, the body has got atleast 5 years left, as does the motor and trans I assume, so we will just do what's necessary to keep it going. It's putting in 27-30mpg tanks lately so atleast the mileage is still good!
We have junked a car in the past for a $1000 repair but we had the Neon in waiting so it was an easy decision.
Junking the Tracker would get us into $8-12-20k 4wd vehicle shopping which is not what we want to spend at the moment.
 
Originally Posted By: kam327
Scanning through this thread there are two factors that I didn't see anyone bring up.

First is the enjoyment of driving a vehicle. For those that really enjoy driving a tight quiet car, that's usually a factor in trading in periodically. I don't think anyone will do the replacements necessary (nor is it in any way cost effective) to keep a car as tight as it was in its first 50k miles of life. And that means putting up with a less refined drive. I get the sense most of the dollars and cents folks chiming up on here are those that find little enjoyment in driving and are just looking for the cheapest way to get from A to B.


That's a big and in most part incorrect assumption. I don't know what kind of cars you drive, or how you drive them that only nets you about 50k mile of "tight" driving, but I can tell you right now that my Mazda 3 at over 100k miles drives as well or even better than some brand new offerings from Toyota or Hyundai.
Does the suspension on my Mazda 3 feel the same as another, brand new Mazda 3 model? Absolutely no, but at the same time it has not deteriorated to the point where the car cannot be enjoyed.

Also, once the struts and bushings do need to be changed, it is not as difficult or expensive as you make it out to be. A set of new struts, springs and bushings is actually pretty affordable, even if done at a shop and will bring back the brand new ride, or very close to it at a fraction of the cost of new vehicle.

I get what you're saying, some people like that brand new car smell, but your assumption that people keeping their cars for hundreds of thousands of miles don't care about ride quality or enjoyment of driving cars in general is totally wrong.
 
Originally Posted By: kam327
Scanning through this thread there are two factors that I didn't see anyone bring up.

First is the enjoyment of driving a vehicle. For those that really enjoy driving a tight quiet car, that's usually a factor in trading in periodically. I don't think anyone will do the replacements necessary (nor is it in any way cost effective) to keep a car as tight as it was in its first 50k miles of life. And that means putting up with a less refined drive. I get the sense most of the dollars and cents folks chiming up on here are those that find little enjoyment in driving and are just looking for the cheapest way to get from A to B.

Second is the stress that comes with trying to diagnose problems and finding the time (or money) to flush them out. I suspect most folks just live with them as long as they don't seriously impair driving saftey, but for me they always stick in the back of my mind as just another problem that eventually has to get dealt with.


I like older cars or at least powertrains that are "track proven" and have a google knowledge base of what could be wrong. And youtube videos of hack fixes.
lol.gif


I'd rather spend $50 for a junkyard whatever and put it in some evening/ weekend on my schedule than take time off from work or family to loiter in a dealer waiting for a free warranty replacement.

I do enjoy my car more than new ones. Mine rattles, pings, and has its quirks, but I can leave it unlocked running at a convenience store and find it there when I leave. A new car that I have to lock would be LESS freedom.

I've driven new cars as rentals or whatever and hate the sight lines. I'd hate to buy 18" tires. Those fat tires stink in the snow, and ABS doesn't make up for it.

Plus when it comes to appearances, driving my 18 year old heap makes me look technically savvy. Getting something new would make me look like a clueless lemming.

So for me it's not a question of money-- I have enough of that-- but effort. And I put the effort in because I don't like the direction car design is going in.
 
Regular scheduled maintenance and routine check-ups will always save you money as compared to waiting for a 'major repair' or service.

I have an '05 Hyundai Accent (90K miles) and an '09 Hyundai Elantra Touring (55K miles). Both were C.P.O. cars from Hyundai.

I try to DIY as much repairs or serviced that I can do. Most times, I only replace an item that fails, aside from a timing belt/tensioner replacement (interference engine) @ 70K miles for the Accent.
The only parts that have 'failed' were both on the '05 Accent. The rear brake cylinders (drum brakes) leaked and CV axle BOOT had a tear. I purchased kits to reman the cylinders ($20) and replaced the outer CV boots ($40). The Accent is also only on its 2nd battery (Hyundai) and 2nd set of tires (Cooper).


Some ways I've found to save money on repairs:
-Don't let problems go unfixed - can become major problems in a short time.
-Keep routine check-up intervals (ie. tire pressure/tread depth, tire rotations, fluids level, spark gaps, etc.)
-DIY for most repairs/services; dealer or reputable shops for harder/more laborous repairs.
-Buying or renting a S.S.T. can still be a cheaper DIY project than taking it to a shop.
-Buy only genuine brand parts, or OEM or USA-made replacements (especially filters, tires, brake parts).
-Use full synthetic fluids for longer O.C.I. and wear protection
-Know who offers cheap labor services (ie. turning brake rotors: Autozone = $20/axle versus O'reilly = $15/axle)

For example, the timing belt/tensioner and serpentine belt change for the '05 Accent was $80 in parts (Gates belts). Hyundai dealership quoted $500; Meineike/Firestone quoted $300+ or $80/HR for labor only.
So I ended up doing the repair myself and it only took ~3 hours and save me a few hundred $.
 
Prelude has had new rear sway bar, new A/C blower motor, new lug nuts, and a new tire this year. Probably $800 total between parts and the labor I paid for. Less than $100 a month.

Sonata got new brakes all around and new tires. Probably $1200 total there.

Add some minor Mustang stuff and fluid/filter costs for all the maintenance I do for another $120 or so.

$2120 on three cars in 2013. Not bad. The best part is - no car payments.
 
My MY 1996 Contour 4 cyl 5 speed manual will be 18 years old this December. It still rides and handles great. It's not tight like a new car but was never overly quiet/tight from the beginning. But it's still a blast to drive. The car is basically rust free because for most of it's life it was garaged in the winter salt season. I've done normal requested services as well as some AC components, not the compressor. Plus a set of rear struts to fix a broken spring, common problem, and brakes plus scheduled tune ups and oil/tranny fluid and filter changes. Also I'm on my 3rd set of tires. They harden from age not from wearing out. I love this car and will hold onto it for as long as I can without costing me a lot of money to maintain.

Whimsey
 
Originally Posted By: gregk24
The previous owner had the fluid replaced only once in 96K miles, that spells death for a Honda transmission in my eyes. I knew it would go eventually so I just had it replaced at 100k miles.


Let me make sure I have this straight: you replaced a transmission that was working fine, just because you sensed impending doom due to the fact that the ATF had "only been replaced once in 96k miles"?

ATF replaced once in 96k miles would mean a drain interval of ~50k miles...?
 
Originally Posted By: supton
A new tire? Not a pair of new tires, but a singular one?


Yes. Probably ~ 5k miles on them and one of them got a huge nail in it and needed replaced. That car is going to implode on itself shortly so buying two made no sense.
I don't think it's going to make it through it's 21st Illinois winter.
 
No joy of driving in an old vehicle?

No freedom?

My suspension tire choice was internally debated for MONTHS. It tracks straight on the highway for miles with zero input. I can tell you if one tire is any more than 2psi different from the others.

I only run the best suspension parts, I run no swaybar, no traction control, no ABS, snowflake tires year round... driver input is the only thing keeping it on the road.

As for freedom...bleh I drive cross country at least twice a year and just as easily travel the pipelines and thinner woods around the house.

The top is armadillo coated...low branches and trees don't matter. Everything is tucked underneath, so dragging the frame is a non issue as well.

Was my xb lowered with a new suspension, light 17s, and tires so sticky they were usually replaced at less than 10k more fun to drive... eh, until you hit a pothole and shatter a rim, or hit a small vise and total it.

Not to mention new car weight... the lead sleds back in the day weighed 1-2000 lbs less than the average car today.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Originally Posted By: kam327
Scanning through this thread there are two factors that I didn't see anyone bring up.

First is the enjoyment of driving a vehicle. For those that really enjoy driving a tight quiet car, that's usually a factor in trading in periodically. I don't think anyone will do the replacements necessary (nor is it in any way cost effective) to keep a car as tight as it was in its first 50k miles of life. And that means putting up with a less refined drive. I get the sense most of the dollars and cents folks chiming up on here are those that find little enjoyment in driving and are just looking for the cheapest way to get from A to B.

Second is the stress that comes with trying to diagnose problems and finding the time (or money) to flush them out. I suspect most folks just live with them as long as they don't seriously impair driving saftey, but for me they always stick in the back of my mind as just another problem that eventually has to get dealt with.


I like older cars or at least powertrains that are "track proven" and have a google knowledge base of what could be wrong. And youtube videos of hack fixes.
lol.gif


I'd rather spend $50 for a junkyard whatever and put it in some evening/ weekend on my schedule than take time off from work or family to loiter in a dealer waiting for a free warranty replacement.

I do enjoy my car more than new ones. Mine rattles, pings, and has its quirks, but I can leave it unlocked running at a convenience store and find it there when I leave. A new car that I have to lock would be LESS freedom.

I've driven new cars as rentals or whatever and hate the sight lines. I'd hate to buy 18" tires. Those fat tires stink in the snow, and ABS doesn't make up for it.

Plus when it comes to appearances, driving my 18 year old heap makes me look technically savvy. Getting something new would make me look like a clueless lemming.

So for me it's not a question of money-- I have enough of that-- but effort. And I put the effort in because I don't like the direction car design is going in.


This is almost me to a tee, one reason I loved and kept my Saturn S-series as long as I did. And the same reason I like my 2010 SI, it's not super new and modern, (in terms of features, design etc) just a proven powertrain and simple design, which I prefer.
 
Originally Posted By: kam327
Scanning through this thread there are two factors that I didn't see anyone bring up.

First is the enjoyment of driving a vehicle. For those that really enjoy driving a tight quiet car, that's usually a factor in trading in periodically. I don't think anyone will do the replacements necessary (nor is it in any way cost effective) to keep a car as tight as it was in its first 50k miles of life. And that means putting up with a less refined drive. I get the sense most of the dollars and cents folks chiming up on here are those that find little enjoyment in driving and are just looking for the cheapest way to get from A to B.

Second is the stress that comes with trying to diagnose problems and finding the time (or money) to flush them out. I suspect most folks just live with them as long as they don't seriously impair driving saftey, but for me they always stick in the back of my mind as just another problem that eventually has to get dealt with.


All of my vehicles save one has over 100k on the odometer. Today I took the 156k mile X3 on my rounds. No rattles or problems. Ditto for my 127k mile MS3 I drove the day before(it is getting a set of Koni FSDs; perhaps I should buy a new car instead?). The ti needs a new headliner, but that's hardly a difficult issue to correct. The Wrangler? All systems go as well. The '02 has some minor issues, but it's a 38 year old car that had been neglected for a while. Even so, my wife and I prefer driving it over her 328i when the older car's lack of A/C isn't a factor. If you prefer to drive a new car that's fine; but in my experience-with virtually all of the cars I've owned over the past 30 years-you can easily drive them past 100k with little-if any-deterioration in the solidity or functionality of the vehicle.
 
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