I own a 2014 Grand cherokee V6. Recommended oil is 5w-20. As I live in the tropics where ambient temp. is between 20-40 degrees celcius all year round. Can I change the oil grade to 5w-30 or 10w-30. It seems to me that I can even use single grade 30. Can somebody comment?
Changing recommended oil grade
- Thread starter Tjulo
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Yeah I agree people find patterns even where they dont exist, looking at you vaccines cause autism people.
If one were to switch to a thicker oil and then three or more months later to notice let's say some timing chain rattle. One might say well look at what the thick oil did. Instead of I'm driving a 10 year old car with 200,000 miles on it and a minor mechanical failure isn't surprising.
dnewton3
Staff member
In regard to the OPs question, there is plenty of UOA macro data to show that a 5w-30 will suffice in his application with no adverse effects.
And the same goes for the Triton engines (all of them; 4.6L, 5.4L, 6.8L; 2v, 3v). I have, quite literally, more than 1500 UOAs on these engines. I've seen data from run-of-the-mill 5w-20 up to premium 15w-40 used in them, and everything in-between. I can say with absolute certainty that, as long as a proper API spec'd lube was used (or a "better" boutique lube), there is no reason to believe that a grade caused any engine malfunction and demise.
No one is questioning that a failure occurred in that motorhome. But what we find difficult (nay, impossible?) to believe is that using a grade different from the one the OEM recommends somehow caused the demise of that engine. As I've often said, do not confuse correlation with causation.
And the same goes for the Triton engines (all of them; 4.6L, 5.4L, 6.8L; 2v, 3v). I have, quite literally, more than 1500 UOAs on these engines. I've seen data from run-of-the-mill 5w-20 up to premium 15w-40 used in them, and everything in-between. I can say with absolute certainty that, as long as a proper API spec'd lube was used (or a "better" boutique lube), there is no reason to believe that a grade caused any engine malfunction and demise.
No one is questioning that a failure occurred in that motorhome. But what we find difficult (nay, impossible?) to believe is that using a grade different from the one the OEM recommends somehow caused the demise of that engine. As I've often said, do not confuse correlation with causation.
My 2012 Pentastar only saw 5W-30 for over 100K km with no issues.
My cam phaser lots its mind with 5w30 oil. However, the OEM spring for the lock pin only exerted 3 ounces of pressure on the pin in the locked position. I've upgraded the spring to about 42 ounces (locked) and I now run 5w40 without any problems.
I never heard of Mahn, but I have never hear of a lot of things, LOL.
A Mahle / Mann merger?
It's called auto correct. Mahle
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I have seen the updated spring sold online to fix these. A real money and time saver.
They do fail even when the recommended viscosity is used. The design was obviously marginal to begin with.
I have to wonder how the chain tensioner lock will hold up long term - possibly having to wait longer for the oil to take over in very cold conditions.
I purchased my replacement spring from Temu for 5 cents. (I actually purchased a box of 440 various springs for $22 and measured the spring tension and travel with a kitchen scale and a vernier caliper to choose an appropriate spring). I also recently replaced the cam chain tensioner when I incorrectly diagnosed it as the source of an engine rattling noise (it was the balance shaft coupling). Anyhow, despite being over 12 years old and traveling over 150K miles, the old cam chain tensioner was still serviceable.
Carlostrece
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but AFAIK straight weight oils are non-detergent oils which would not be desirable in an engine that has an oil filter. I think you'd want to use a detergent oil 5w30, 10w30, or 10w40 if it's an appropriate viscosity for your situation.
Carlostrece
$100 Site Donor 2025
I suggest you use a 5w30 or 10w30 full synthetic that is on the thicker end of 5w30 such as Quaker State Ultimate Protection Full Synthetic, or Quaker State High Mileage Full Synthetic. Another excellent choice would be Valvoline High Mileage Extended Protection.
I would not use a single grade 30 because AFAIK single grade oils are nondetergent oils.
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dnewton3
Staff member
The old-skool straight weight lubes from many, many decades past were ND oils. There are still some ND oils available for old applications like agricultural tractors from the 1930s and 40s, some antique cars, etc.
However, pretty much any monograde lube is available as a high-detergent lube now. Examples would be products like the Rotella (10, 30, 40, 50 grades). Pennzoil conventional oil is also available in 30 and 40 monogrades; both API SN rated. Valvoline makes both a 30 grade in both non-detergent and detergent versions (SP rated).
https://rotella.shell.com/en_us/pro...=L3NvcHVzL3JvdGVsbGEvbmV3c2xldHRlci9lbl91cw==
https://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/products/blends-conventional-oils/motor-oil.html#tab-specifications
https://www.valvolineglobal.com/en/daily-protection-conventional-motor-oil/
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Do you know which engines? I know a lot of people (including me) upping viscosity on the new dynamic force from 0W-16 to 5W-30. However in my case it never gets very cold here?
Not how VVT works. The oil pressure is simply the motive force. The control is handled by the ECU, which determines if it needs more or less advance, which then electrically opens the VVT actuator to let more or less oil in. It doesn't need to know the oil thickness or even oil pressure because it tracks the cam position with the Cam sensor(s). This is known as "closed loop control". I don't think anyone has done it without closed loop in at least 20 years?? but I could be incorrect. No engine I would buy I guess.
The engine dumped and Ford used the "wrong oil excuse" to deny warranty. I assume your buddy told them what he used. If in fact this story is the whole story.
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Monograde oils can be desirable if your starting temperatures allow it. Multi-grade oils are a convenience, nothing else. But good luck finding a VW 504 00 monograde
What about when the owner's manual only shows one viscosity grade and also stipulates "You may also use synthetic motor oil if it is labeled with the API Certification Seal and is the specified viscosity grade"? Thank you.
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