Your Opinion on Choosing an Oil Grade

Shel_B

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A few days ago, when changing the oil, I saw something that got me thinking again about what grade to use. HPL cleaner, which is a straight 30 weight, was poured into the engine and I was surprised at how easily it flowed. It didn't look much different than the 0W-30 ESP that was also added. So, the question is: can I do as well or better with a 10W-30 in my situation (California mild climate, mostly local driving) as with a 0W or 5W graded oil? What about a straight 30 grade?
 
So, the question is: can I do as well or better with a 10W-30 in my situation (California mild climate, mostly local driving) as with a 0W or 5W graded oil? What about a straight 30 grade?

You've been around here long enough to know a few things:

- what does "as well or better" mean to you? Because that's a typical poorly defined question.
- are you really asking if a 10w-30 is going to be somehow tangibly "better" than a 5w-30 or a 0w-30, in a mild climate?
- you should realize that the HPL EC is based with a 30 grade, but the esters, etc represent a significant portion of the content, and so your impression of pouring it isn't comparable to a typical OTS offering of some other product line monograde. The content of the EC isn't comparable to other lubes, and so you're impression of how well it flowed (at ambient temp) isn't applicable to other products. What is this? PF lite?
- you've said nothing of the application or use factors; is this a DD, race car, weekend warrior, short trips, etc?
- ever hear of a UOA?

I SERIOUSLY doubt that your engine is going to be substantially proven to be "better off" by using a 10w-30 instead of a 5w-30, presuming you're comparing products in the same line (M1 to M1; Amsoil Sig' to Sig'; etc). And to base this decision off a specialty cleaning product being poured out of a bottle? I'm not trying to pick on you, but really ... aren't we better than this by now?
 
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A few days ago, when changing the oil, I saw something that got me thinking again about what grade to use. HPL cleaner, which is a straight 30 weight, was poured into the engine and I was surprised at how easily it flowed. It didn't look much different than the 0W-30 ESP that was also added. So, the question is: can I do as well or better with a 10W-30 in my situation (California mild climate, mostly local driving) as with a 0W or 5W graded oil? What about a straight 30 grade?
0w, 5w or 10w doesn't make any difference in your climate.
 
For decades weather permitting, I used mono grades like Delo 400 or PC Duron.
Now I’m not putting enough miles on the truck for seasonal oil changes so I’m stuck using multi grades like the rest of the peasants.
 
For decades weather permitting, I used mono grades like Delo 400 or PC Duron.
Now I’m not putting enough miles on the truck for seasonal oil changes so I’m stuck using multi grades like the rest of the peasants.
This is why I love bitog. Honestly I agree, If I had a rural king and could get delvac 1630 sae 30 I'd be using it. The 1650 sae 50 has a d92 of 290c/554f. I don't know if even chevron mono grades can go that high.

https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/for-businesses/heavy-duty-lubricants/products/mobil-delvac-1630
 
As well or better?...

I'm in NY, somewhat North of NYC, temperature is ~20F right now, and not all that uncommon to drop to single digits overnight and staying there when I'm leaving for work at least 10-15 days if not more a winter, more like 15-30 days this winter. My car is sitting outside this winter because I have to clear out my garage space. I don't hesitate to throw 10w-30 in and run it thru the winter. For me it is just because it was bought cheap on clearance. Meets my definition of as well, but not any better. Maybe it meets my definition of not any worse off, but I won't go out to seek 10w-30 full price.
 
0w, 5w or 10w doesn't make any difference in your climate.
I agree.
the 0w or 5w could be made with better components than the 10w30.
so there is no way to make a blanket statement that one is better or worse

unless he takes a road trip.
 
I would not go with a straight 30 in a car today. There are better options. My 86 K30 Truck calls for HD30 for continuous use, but I see no real difference than just 5w40 or 15w40, as far as specs go.

I think that all things being equal, 10w30 will be more stable at temperature than 5w30. Is there a huge advantage in your case, who knows? I think that a lot of evidence shows that the higher the viscosity index, the more volatile the oil is.
 
My GX is due for a change soon. I have my own personal Walmart/AAP shelf to select from that is void of boutiques on purpose. 20w50? 15w40? SAE30 conventional? 0w20? Some strange combo brew for my own amusement? Currently lost in analysis paralysis with zero scientific basis or thought. I get it. Stay tuned. Rest assured, the Toyota will endure mostly because of my stubborn will and what the internet said.
 
This is why I love bitog. Honestly I agree, If I had a rural king and could get delvac 1630 sae 30 I'd be using it. The 1650 sae 50 has a d92 of 290c/554f. I don't know if even chevron mono grades can go that high.

https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/for-businesses/heavy-duty-lubricants/products/mobil-delvac-1630
The 1300 series Delvac mono grades are discontinued. 1330 was one of my go to engine oils. The 1600s have more of everything and the price reflects that.
One summer I ran out the OLM in my deleted LML in 220 hours. All highway. FE showed 8ppm after 15,000 kms with Duron SAE 40.
My experiment failed the year before when I got caught in an October cold snap out on the Canadian prairies and had to drain the oil early. For ‘Mericans think 300 miles north of Minot, ND.
A pail of 5w40 Brotella from Canadian Tire to the rescue.
 
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The 1300 series Delvac mono grades are discontinued. 1330 was one of my go to engine oils. The 1600s have more of everything and the price reflects that.
One summer I ran out the OLM in my deleted LML in 220 hours. All highway. FE showed 8ppm after 15,000 kms with Duron SAE 40.
My experiment failed the year before when I got caught in an October cold snap out on the Canadian prairies and had to drain the oil early. 5w40 to the rescue.
Yeah it's risky running a monograde up there. Down here my cold start temps never go below 20f so an sae 30 would work year round but availability stinks. Rural king sells the 1630 for 14.99 so not terrible but its gone up some.
 
Well, so much for noticing new things and wondering why.... Better stick with the old knowledge. Better stay away from the 10w's and just stick with the 0 and 5w's...
 
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