Your Opinion on Choosing an Oil Grade

[userfriendly]

Yeah it's risky running a monograde up there. Down here my cold start temps never go below 20f so an sae 30 would work year round but availability stinks. Rural king sells the 1630 for 14.99 so not terrible but its gone up some.

When I see your name I keep wondering if you’re the chainsaw guy from Argentina.

 

[JavierH19]

When I see your name I keep wondering if you’re the chainsaw guy from Argentina.

Yeah it's a common Hispanic name. In reality Javier Hernandez is the John Doe of the Hispanic world. I know so many others with the same name and have J.H numbered 1-4 in my contacts. I'm probably JH #(x) on someone else's phone and I don't even mind the thought. I was once asked more information during a background check because the secretary hadn't seen so many pages for any other name combination.

 

[JeffKeryk]

FYI @Shel_B used 4 quarts M1 0w30 and 1 quart of the HPL 30w Cleaner. I know because I did the service.
The vehicle is a 2011 Camry 4 banger with 90K on the clock. As we know, these Toyotas would run fine on maple syrup.
Please remember that those of us that are old enough bought and used single weights because that was the spec and the norm.

Do we know that a nice multi-grade offers significant benefits? Yeah, but the old ways die hard... Thick vs thin for the win!
I am starting to think I just might start using 5w30 in everything. Including my Wheaties. Who the heck knows?

I did kinda like that 0w30 stuff... Never used it before... All good.

 

[4WD]

Yeah it's risky running a monograde up there. Down here my cold start temps never go below 20f so an sae 30 would work year round but availability stinks. Rural king sells the 1630 for 14.99 so not terrible but it’s gone up some.

$4.48/quart at Walmart.com

 

[Jetronic]

A few days ago, when changing the oil, I saw something that got me thinking again about what grade to use. HPL cleaner, which is a straight 30 weight, was poured into the engine and I was surprised at how easily it flowed. It didn't look much different than the 0W-30 ESP that was also added. So, the question is: can I do as well or better with a 10W-30 in my situation (California mild climate, mostly local driving) as with a 0W or 5W graded oil? What about a straight 30 grade?

The cleaner is not tested for cold viscosity or contains viscosity modifiers, but if it's 100% true synthetic (ester/PAO) it would turn out to be a 10W or 15W-30.

Now, at the temperatures most of us would be pouring oil into an engine, there would be very little difference in viscosity as long as you stay in the same (hot) grade.

I'm firmly in the less is more camp when it comes to viscosity modifiers and in the more is more camp when it comes to viscosity. 3.5 cP starting HTHS is a nice place to be. 10W-30 full synthetic can get you there, but probably not if you want to buy it at Walmart.

 

[Jetronic]

I have used 10W-30, but whenever I look in the SDS's they always seem to have a lower group base stock. So I generally stay away from them now - even though I have no need for the 5W cold rating.

That used to be my reasoning to get 0W-30 aswell. Least amount of gp I-II content.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

IMHO, Better to have more grp II in the blend than the excessive VM treat needed for a commodity priced 0W/5W not required by climate.

But It all depends on the baker, ingredients and the finished cake.

The Proof is in in the Eating.

Random thoughts.

I have had some play time with this stuff given the challenges the D.I. in my FORD have presented and appreciate what they bring.

Also know that it is all about the specific oils you are comparing. Generalizations don't go too far in this argument.

Another challenge when looking at 10W30 is the lack if factory fill representation these days, then you have this multigrade folded into ILSAC spec to protect aftertreatment devices. Be aware that no hotrod FS stuff abounds as in decades past.

Your worn in, modest passenger car engine will appreciate a quality 10W30 MID/LOW SAPS product.
Now which one is that?

 

[Jimmy_Russells]

For decades weather permitting, I used mono grades like Delo 400 or PC Duron.
Now I’m not putting enough miles on the truck for seasonal oil changes so I’m stuck using multi grades like the rest of the peasants.

If you were a true bitoger you would do the seasonal changes anyway!

 

[FCD]

I base my oil choices off the butt dyno ofcourse.

 

[userfriendly]

If you were a true bitoger you would do the seasonal changes anyway!

And post UOAs every week on how the oil is progressing.
But then again, I’d be using custom boutique blends instead of bargain basement consumer products and getting that 8ppm Fe at OLM drain time down to something more acceptable.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

Need an OCI length and need a price cap on the oil.

Yes, a 10w30 or 0w40 would be great for California and that Camry.
Any major brand-name Group 3 Syn in 10w30, would be fine for Camry 5k OCIs. Castrol, Pennzoil, Valvoline also.
Mobil-1 has their GTL upper-tier EP Triple Action in 10w30 and their M-1 Euro which contains some PAO/ESTER in 0w40.

No need to look any further than these two M-1s for quality at a good price, unless you want boutique oil brands.

 

[irollo]

... I was surprised at how easily it flowed. It didn't look much different than the 0W-30 ESP that was also added...

You just Project Farmed yourself

 

[gfh77665]

Just ask Dave. You need nothing else.

 

[ChrisD46]

I have used 10W-30, but whenever I look in the SDS's they always seem to have a lower group base stock. So I generally stay away from them now - even though I have no need for the 5W cold rating.

Good points - GDI engine owners would consider lower VI’s in the 10W30 oil as reducing possible intake valve deposits in GDI engines but if the 5W30 oil is built with better ingredients and meets more industry approvals (like D1 Gen 3) than the 10W30 oil , then why bother with the 10W30 nowadays ?

 

[OilStainedNapkin]

Oh Shelby, what an imagination you have

 

[zeroptzero]

I've often heard that your engine can still benefit from faster oil flow at start up , even at 70 degrees F

 

[OilUzer]

Per my signature recommendation, when in doubt, use a thicker oil.

The only 10W-30 I buy, is M1 EP. Burns ZERO in all our cars.

 

[kschachn]

I've often heard that your engine can still benefit from faster oil flow at start up , even at 70 degrees F

Ah yes, the concern about "flow". Flow is not an issue at 70F. At that temperature the winter rating of the oil is utterly irrelevant.

 

[FlyingTexan]

We base our choices on current trends, hype, and conspiracy theories instead of what the manufacturer recommends around here. Like real men.

My manufacturer says the tranny is good for life. You believe that as well?

What about when they build the engine and run it for years on one spec then it gets to the US and magically has a different spec for CAFE reasons?

 

[ATex7239]

My manufacturer says the tranny is good for life. You believe that as well?

What about when they build the engine and run it for years on one spec then it gets to the US and magically has a different spec for CAFE reasons?

Their meaning of “lifetime” and your meaning of “lifetime” aren’t the same so I guess that depends what we are calling “life.” Are you expecting one transmission to last for your entire life on earth?

If an oil is suitable for use then it’s suitable for use