Maybe something that required a higher HT/HS for whatever reason.What vehicles would you not use ESP in, for those considering switching to ESP?
Maybe something that required a higher HT/HS for whatever reason.What vehicles would you not use ESP in, for those considering switching to ESP?
New vehicles (or used vehicles still under warranty coverage) that don't entrust the ESP specs on the back of the jug.What vehicles would you not use ESP in, for those considering switching to ESP?
You don't see any issues with it being a Euro oil in a non-Euro engine, in the way of the catalytic converter or anything like that, do you?Maybe something that required a higher HT/HS for whatever reason.
What?You don't see any issues with it being a Euro oil in a non-Euro engine, in the way of the catalytic converter or anything like that, do you?
No I wouldn’t. Only if you’re burning a large amount of oil is phosphorus poisoning an issue. How much oil are you burning?You don't see any issues with it being a Euro oil in a non-Euro engine, in the way of the catalytic converter or anything like that, do you?
Not burning any oil that I can see as smoke out of the tailpipe. On 0W20 I probably use 1 quart in 5000 miles. I would say that it's not bad at all for a Honda 2.4 with 278K miles, given their reputation for being oil burners.No I wouldn’t. Only if you’re burning a large amount of oil is phosphorus poisoning an issue. How much oil are you burning?
The only time I ever saw a problem with this was in an engine that was burning in excess of 1 quart per 500 miles. And that was when using an HDEO with higher phosphorus than ESP.
Esp stand for Emission System Protection. Even recommend for diesel engines using dpfNot burning any oil that I can see as smoke out of the tailpipe. On 0W20 I probably use 1 quart in 5000 miles. I would say that it's not bad at all for a Honda 2.4 with 278K miles, given their reputation for being oil burners.
Right, I get that. I was just trying to clarify that the protection element in ESP doesn't mostly or strictly apply to Euro cars - if there are differences between them and other makes that would make M1 ESP a less than ideal choice.Esp stand for Emission System Protection. Even recommend for diesel engines using dpf
Owned 2 Hondas, one civic 1.8 and one civic 1.6 diesel. All of them used "euro oil "straight from honda dealership servicing under the warranty period.Right, I get that. I was just trying to clarify that the protection element in ESP doesn't mostly or strictly apply to Euro cars - if there are differences between them and other makes that would make M1 ESP a less than ideal choice.
I'm wondering if she went the GM recommended interval (at the time). My wife had a 2012 Equinox 2.4L and I used Rotella 10W-30 truck oil and changed it every 3,000 miles because it was direct injection and I was afraid of dilution. It never used any oil.My 2011 Chevy Equinox never notices what brand or weight oil I put in it either. I quit using gm's dexos recommended oil because it does nothing beneficial for the engine, which will use oil regardless whose dexos branded oil went in it. I bumped it up to 10w40 wt, and it dramatically cut oil usage. It was using a qt every 750 miles, and that went up to a qt every 1500 miles with 10w40 wt. I've been thinking the factory has been recommending the wrong wt oil for years in those early model years.,,
The olm says to change the oil in her car at 5k miles. By that time, the amount of oil that has already been replaced, almost equals another oil change. The dealer seemed to feel the engine needed to be re ringed. Heavier oil was the cheapest option for reducing consumption.,,,.I'm wondering if she went the GM recommended interval (at the time). My wife had a 2012 Equinox 2.4L and I used Rotella 10W-30 truck oil and changed it every 3,000 miles because it was direct injection and I was afraid of dilution. It never used any oil.
what grade?I don’t either, now that Walmart sells M1 ESP for $28. I use it in everything as it is pretty much a universal oil.
The -30 grade.what grade?
I thought that this was one of the strong qualities of the ESP: it had a high HT/HS viscosity.Maybe something that required a higher HT/HS for whatever reason.
I would run VRP through it for 4 changes minimum. Incredible results here and elsewhere on the internet.The olm says to change the oil in her car at 5k miles. By that time, the amount of oil that has already been replaced, almost equals another oil change. The dealer seemed to feel the engine needed to be re ringed. Heavier oil was the cheapest option for reducing consumption.,,,.
There's a 0W-30 and 5W-30.The -30 grade.
He may not stress, but he makes sure he uses M1. That’s learned behavior.My neighbor doesn't either.
He buys used BMWs and usually has four in his lane. He takes them to 400 to 500k miles. He repairs them himself and is a mid 50 year old Lockheed Martin engineer.
At a Christmas party I notice he had a bunch of Vanilla grade Mobil 1 on the shelves in a few weights.
I asked him what BMW spec oil he uses. He doesn't, basic M1 and he said he doesn't do the approval thing. Never did and who could argue as his whole family drives them and they all get the basic but in the correct weight...
He is now into the used Mercedes market....going Vanilla...
Okay.I thought that this was one of the strong qualities of the ESP: it had a high HT/HS viscosity.
There's a 0W-30 and 5W-30.