Help choosing oil viscosities

[wjm52358]

Apologies if my post is too simplistic or rehashes too much that shouldn't be discussed yet again.

I've read hundreds of threads on these forums over the past few week and I might be more confused than when I started. I have the following 2 engines that I want to maintain:

1. 2011 Acura MDX V6 - 100k miles, seems to consume about 2 quarts per 3k when using 5W-20 M1 EP HM. I think these engines are known to have ring sludge problems.
2. 2015 Toyota Tacoma V6 - Brand new to me, 160k miles, I suspect it doesn't leak/burn any oil based on levels and information from buyer. Planning on putting in 5W-30 M1 EP.

I live in West Michigan where temps can range from 0 F to 95F throughout the year.
Both vehicles make a variety of trips, with most ranging from 7 to 15 minutes, but sometimes long road trips.

I have the following questions:
1. Due to the Acura's oil consumption problems, is it worth increasing the viscosity from 5W-20 to 5W-30?
2. With the cold temperatures we sometimes have here and frequent short trips, is it a good idea to bump each car down to 0W oil? These aren't available in the High-Mileage variant and therefore might not be the best idea for the Acura since I want to stem the ring problem.

From what I've read, there don't seem to be any obvious tradeoffs between extended performance oils and other synthetics (other than price). I don't see the need to put HM oil in the Tacoma until I've observed oil problems.

 

[Zenon]

Valvoline Restore and Protect 5w-30 April through December.
0w-20 January through March.
My 2 c.

 

[kschachn]

A 0W rated oil is only necessary when the starting temperature is below -30 or so. Above that there’s no guarantee that it will be thinner then one with a 5W rating. What does short tripping do?

And it’s very reasonable to try a higher grade with consumption. There’s zero reason to change grades with the season unless the winter rating is inappropriate.

 

[Cujet]

M1, 5W-30 in both. Change regularly. If you want something better, than go for a boutique oil. Otherwise, it is rather hard to beat standard M1 for all weather performance and zero deposits.

 

[daniel327]

A 5w40 oil is good for temps ranging from -22F to 104F, so it would have you covered all year round. I'd use Valvoline Synpower 5W40.

 

[Zenon]

A 0W rated oil is only necessary when the starting temperature is below -30 or so. Above that there’s no guarantee that it will be thinner then one with a 5W rating. What does short tripping do?

And it’s very reasonable to try a higher grade with consumption. There’s zero reason to change grades with the season unless the winter rating is inappropriate.

I had some nice 5w-30s in my chest freezer, and it was an eye-opening experience.
At -15C, Idemitsu 5w-30 was hard to pour out from the container, VRP 5W-30 was like molasses but slowly flowing, and PUP 5w-30 flowed nicely like ESP 0W-30. All 0W-20 were super easy to pour out from containers (maple syrup viscosity).

Starting sound of my Subaru Outback with Idemitsu 5w-30 was not nice at all -20C.

I prefer 0W stuff for such a occasions.

 

[JavierH19]

valvoline restore and protect 5w-30 to help clean the rings in the warm and in the cold a 0w

 

[kschachn]

View attachment 271163

I had some nice 5w-30s in my chest freezer, and it was an eye-opening experience.
At -15C, Idemitsu 5w-30 was hard to pour out from the container, VRP 5W-30 was like molasses but slowly flowing, and PUP 5w-30 flowed nicely like ESP 0W-30. All 0W-20 were super easy to pour out from containers (maple syrup viscosity).

Starting sound of my Subaru Outback with Idemitsu 5w-30 was not nice at all -20C.

I prefer 0W stuff for such an occasions.

Ah the cup test which is closely related to the little plastic ramp test, popular on YouTube.

If I ever need to know how the oil behaves and flows out of a paper cup I’ll be sure to check back.

 

[facility1]

I would think a good name brand, Pennzoil,Castrol, Royal Purple HMX,etc, 5w-30 synthetic to be fine with high milage formula or Valvoline R&P 5w-30, checking your pcv may also a good idea & use a injector cleaner too.

 

[Zenon]

Ah the cup test which is closely related to the little plastic ramp test, popular on YouTube.

If I ever need to know how the oil behaves and flows out of a paper cup I’ll be sure to check

I like your aggressiveness.

 

[BrendanC]

VRP 5w-30 or Valvoline EP HM 5w-30 if staying in in a 5w-30.

M1 0w-40 if stepping up to a 40 grade.

 

[oil pan 4]

Need to know run temperature, expected cold start temperature and hot idle oil pressure.

 

[Zaedock]

Your operating temps are nothing out of the ordinary. Just stick with M1 5W30 EP for both and motor on.

 

[Zaedock]

We could watch the paper cup oil test while listening to The 5th Dimension.

 

[Zenon]

I will request that PF perform a ramp test at 40 different temperatures and demand that they invest in an accurate $9500 viscometer.
We the people deserve nice viscosity curves!

 

[kschachn]

I will request that PF perform a ramp test at 40 different temperatures and demand that they invest in an accurate $9500 viscometer.
We the people deserve nice viscosity curves!

That’s not the problem.

 

[scoot]

Has this been discussed before ? Rings a bell

 

[tired]

Apologies if my post is too simplistic or rehashes too much that shouldn't be discussed yet again.

I've read hundreds of threads on these forums over the past few week and I might be more confused than when I started. I have the following 2 engines that I want to maintain:

1. 2011 Acura MDX V6 - 100k miles, seems to consume about 2 quarts per 3k when using 5W-20 M1 EP HM. I think these engines are known to have ring sludge problems.
2. 2015 Toyota Tacoma V6 - Brand new to me, 160k miles, I suspect it doesn't leak/burn any oil based on levels and information from buyer. Planning on putting in 5W-30 M1 EP.

I live in West Michigan where temps can range from 0 F to 95F throughout the year.
Both vehicles make a variety of trips, with most ranging from 7 to 15 minutes, but sometimes long road trips.

I have the following questions:
1. Due to the Acura's oil consumption problems, is it worth increasing the viscosity from 5W-20 to 5W-30?
2. With the cold temperatures we sometimes have here and frequent short trips, is it a good idea to bump each car down to 0W oil? These aren't available in the High-Mileage variant and therefore might not be the best idea for the Acura since I want to stem the ring problem.

From what I've read, there don't seem to be any obvious tradeoffs between extended performance oils and other synthetics (other than price). I don't see the need to put HM oil in the Tacoma until I've observed oil problems.

I would just run Valvoline Restore and Protect in both in their prescribed viscosities year round and watch your oil consumption problem disappear.

For the Toyota, you really have no idea what they were running or how often they were changing the oil, so I'd clean it up with the VRP.

I think people sometimes forget about the "Protect" part too. If it will clean piston ring deposits, then it sure is likely not to leave any. This is what I'm leaning towards doing for my cars, even after the 4 OCIs to clean things up.

I have not seen a compelling reason here NOT to run it. It's the same price or cheaper now with the rebate as M1 EP, and it's available on the shelf at Walmart.

If you don't already, you can run the Toyota filters too. They are very cheap and good. Don't buy them on eBay or Amazon. Too many fakes. Buy from your dealer, or you can have them shipped from many online Toyota dealers. https://parts.treasurecoastlexus.com/ - one of the cheapest places. No tax unless you're in Florida, and free shipping.

 

[Stumpalump]

Valvoline restore and protect with top tier gas may clean up a ring sludge problem then it may seal better. If that doesn’t help it, I would dump in a quart of the non synthetic Lucas oil stabilizer. The naysayers on here do not like it but it does reduce consumption in old engines.

 

[OilUzer]

Since you like M1 and like EP and 10W is good enough for the given temperature range, plus my much older v6 Tacoma doesn't burn any oil with it (whereas it does burn with 2 or 3 different other oil I've tried) ... I would give it a shot.

However, it may not resolve your Acura issues and/or win the cup test.