Oil for slightly neglected ford explorer 4L sohc

[oil pan 4]

It does take a while. That looks gritty.

I suggest you join an Explorer Sport Trac forum and Ranger forum because they're likely to know of 1 or 2 longer filters that are compatible with 2010 Sport Trac. If you're lucky, you might have a couple of upgrade size choices, such as a ⅓ longer choice and a ½ longer choice.

Buy the longest compatible filter that you have enough clearance for. Buy a filter with fine filtration with 99% @ 20-25 microns filtration.

NAPA Gold is my favorite fine filtration filter because (according to filter dissection video I saw) it has more filtration material and pleats per length of filter. So it's a better filter in standard size/length, and evenmoreso if you find a compatible longer filter.

If you find a longer filter, it might hang lower where a flying rock or stick could hit it. Yes, a stick. I live in a rain forest where branches sometimes fall on roads. If you drive on gravel roads, gravel can hit a filter.

So you want a thick (tough) can. NAPA Gold filters have thick cans.

An vehicle specific forum (if it has active members) can conveniently provide you a lot of vehicle specific information, especially about common upgrades such as longer filters. Ranger owners can be helpful because they're into upgrades and Rangers (of similar model years) use same filter as Sport Trac.

I found a longer one.
Searched all wix 22x1.5mm filters.
Turns out there's just not a huge selection of 22x1.5mm filters with oring diameters that will fit on passenger vehicles.

 

[Infomercial]

I am loving the m1 0w40 euro in my 4.0 mustang. That walmart 5qt for $11.99 was a great moment. The car begs for throttle so smoothly.

Your 4.0 is a different gen and issues but it may be the best oil for any application.

Seemed to clear up the whisps of smoke i figured was valve cover leak on headers.

 

[Carlostrece]

I found a longer one.
Searched all wix 22x1.5mm filters.
Turns out there's just not a huge selection of 22x1.5mm filters with oring diameters that will fit on passenger vehicles.

Just make sure the longer filter has same bypass valve pressure differential rating. The bypass valve psi needs to be same for it to be compatible. At least that's my understanding.

I always used a longer filter in my Jeep 4L and Buick 3800 II

 

[oil pan 4]

Just make sure the longer filter has same bypass valve pressure differential rating. The bypass valve psi needs to be same for it to be compatible. At least t my understanding.

I always used a longer filter in my Jeep 4L and Buick 3800 II

The wl10058 is 8psid the fram FE2 was 7 to 11psid. I'd run up to a 22psid.

 

[Carlostrece]

The wl10058 is 8psid the fram FE2 was 7 to 11psid. I'd run up to a 22psid.

I suggest staying within the bypass psi range of a stock filter. Maybe that's what you are doing. I find your post somehat confusing. Regarding your 22 psid statement I might not understand you. In any case, best wishes for your project.

 

[oil pan 4]

I suggest staying within the bypass psi range of a stock filter. Maybe that's what you are doing. I find your post somehat confusing. Regarding your 22 psid statement I might not understand you. In any case, best wishes for your project.

If I found a 22psid bypass filter I would probably run it. But it would seem the selection of 22x1.5mm threaded filters are limited.

 

[JohnnyO]

Coolant and rear diff oil were both brown. I'm sure the front diff is just as bad.
And it's got a coolant overflow tank now.
The rear diff was so bad I'm considering dumping some reclaimed motor oil in there, going around the block and dumping it again before I fill up with my cherished mobil1.

The rear diff has a drain plug and it's easiest to fill it with an $8 Harbor Freight transfer pump and remove the spare tire. There is a hole in the crossmember to snake the hose through and straight into the fill plug.
You cannot get the front diff cover off with the diff in the vehicle. Crossmember is in the way right up against it. It's best to just take it to the Valvoline Quicky Lube where they suck it out with a pump.
Change the transfer case lube too. Same Harbor Freight transfer pump. I used Mobil 1 or Redline D4 ATF. The case is aluminum so don't crank the plugs real tight, 18 ft lb is fine.
The trannys are a weak spot, up to you to change the fluid if you want, I'm of the opinion that Ford transmissions suck and it doesn't matter if you change the fluid or not, they're on borrowed time after 100k. I had mine flushed three times and it still blew at 130k.
I got an 08 Sport Trac 4.0 new and had it for 13 years and 212,000 miles. It blew a head gasket but the timing chains were still fine but then it got synthetic oil and a new filter every 5000 miles since new.

 

[oil pan 4]

The rear diff has a drain plug and it's easiest to fill it with an $8 Harbor Freight transfer pump and remove the spare tire. There is a hole in the crossmember to snake the hose through and straight into the fill plug.
You cannot get the front diff cover off with the diff in the vehicle. Crossmember is in the way right up against it. It's best to just take it to the Valvoline Quicky Lube where they suck it out with a pump.
Change the transfer case lube too. Same Harbor Freight transfer pump. I used Mobil 1 or Redline D4 ATF. The case is aluminum so don't crank the plugs real tight, 18 ft lb is fine.
The trannys are a weak spot, up to you to change the fluid if you want, I'm of the opinion that Ford transmissions suck and it doesn't matter if you change the fluid or not, they're on borrowed time after 100k. I had mine flushed three times and it still blew at 130k.
I got an 08 Sport Trac 4.0 new and had it for 13 years and 212,000 miles. It blew a head gasket but the timing chains were still fine but then it got synthetic oil and a new filter every 5000 miles since new.

I went stone age on it. I used a rubber line and the mobil1 squeeze bottle. Didn't even drop the spare.
I'm going to do the transmission fluid change the same way the powerstroke help guy does it. The transmission has always been the weak spot for the Ford explorer.

 

[Chris142]

The rear diff was so bad I'm considering dumping some reclaimed motor oil in there, going around the block and dumping it

Don't do that. Motor oil does not contain the necessary additives for hypoid gears

 

[oil pan 4]

Don't do that. Motor oil does not contain the necessary additives for hypoid gears

Already did. Drove it easy for 9 miles. Dumped it, filled it with a half quart of 90w-140 and a quart of mobil1 75w-90 because that's what was open.
Then drove it 300miles 2 days ago and will drive it another 300 miles here in the next 2 or 3 days.
Only about 1qt came out when I drained the old stuff.

 

[JohnnyO]

I went stone age on it. I used a rubber line and the mobil1 squeeze bottle. Didn't even drop the spare.
I'm going to do the transmission fluid change the same way the powerstroke help guy does it. The transmission has always been the weak spot for the Ford explorer.

I did the rear axle and transfer case every 30k until it hit 150k and by that point the lube drained out like new every time so I let it go until 200k. The rear axle, I was told, can have bearing problems so it's not a bad thing to do. I had the front axle lube changed at the Valvoline Quicky Lube every 50k.
There are a couple of Facebook groups for Sport Tracs plus www.SportTrac.org and www.ExplorerForum.com.
Like I said, mine blew a head gasket at 212k and I'd already put enough money into it for the past two state inspections due to expensive things wearing out so I traded it in on a new Ranger. They're great little trucks though.

 

[oil pan 4]

The PP frankenjug mix is doing it's thing. It's got 750 road trip miles and a thousand total miles on this oci on it and already is starting to look like 3,000 to 4,000 mile oil in a well kept vehicle. The "PP flush"
is delivering results.
I'll do a little 200 mile round trip run tomorrow, that will put it about 155,000 and I'll dump the oil and cut open the filter. Dependind on what I find inside the filter I'll go FE2 or wix wl10058. The wix is an oversized rock catching dumpster. Also go to the next higher level of oil, PUP euro. If 5qt isn't enough I'll make up the difference with some PP hm.

 

[tired]

He was driving around with a broken anti sway bar for probably for a long time. I've never driven a vehicle without a functional anti sway bar, it was wacky. Took 20 minutes to fix.
2 TPMS were bad had to go to discount tire drop it off all day and spend $160.
The check engine light was on.
Coolant is on the edge of being bad according to test strips at work.
It's missing the coolant overflow tank.
Air filter was covered with feathers and the foam was split and filter pleats were torn.
Battery terminals look they were under the sea. I haven't fixed them I can take a pic.
My snap on tester says the battery is at 75%, should be fine till fall/winter, he absolutely would have ran it till it didn't start any more.
Last set of tires he ran till one tread separated and ripped off the rear bumper.
One fog light broken.
Like Boston said it's "more than a feeling".

View attachment 286217
$169
Air filter is in the trash 240 miles away, I think it was a fram and have no idea when it was installed.
The sway bar end links are sitting atop my unsorted hardware collection at home. They're fairly long 8x1.25mm bolts in good condition.
Oh yeah and he's got a brand-new looking Craftsman 48 inch riding mower with 24hp Briggs engine with 202 hours on it with a burned up engine because he didn't change the oil.

I don't know if there's a BITOG hall of fame, but these posts should go in it. Had me wheezing.