it is a good option I am sure, but not easily found... unless you have a good source you can suggest?I was going to suggest Mobil 1 Formula M 5w40. That's usually what the Mercedes dealers stock and it's factory fill on AMG cars.
Back when I was sound testing oil - got a six pack of M1 Formula M for $38 on eBay … now they sell it for over $50it is a good option I am sure, but not easily found... unless you have a good source you can suggest?
Also for anyone still following I pose another question:
If I ran a dedicated race oil, or something with excellent film strength and shear stability, would it ever be doable to run a 0/5/10w30? or is moving down below a 40 grade a no-go in all circumstances?
The Redline Professional is rebranded Phillips 66/Kendall - not bad, but nothing special. You want the High Performance Oil for the track...the real Redline.Just bought 24 qts of Redline Professional Series Full Synthetic 5W40 for $60 so I guess I will add that to my collection of upcoming oils to try...
It is not well regarded on here it looks like, mostly because of the expensive normal sale price. Couldn't say no to trying it for the price though, cheaper than the Valvoline euro I just bought which was already a fantastic deal.
From Redline for Redline Professional Series Full Synthetic 5W40 :
- Factory approved for API SN, BMW LL-01, Mercedes Benz-Approval 229.5, Porsche A40 and VW/Audi 505.00/502.00
- Recommended for ACEA A3/B4-12, Mercedes Benz 229.3/226.5, Renault RN0700/RN0710 and PSA B71 2296
- BMW, Porsche, Mercedes-Benz and VW-Audi approval letters available by request
Just bought 24 qts of Redline Professional Series Full Synthetic 5W40 for $60 so I guess I will add that to my collection of upcoming oils to try...
It is not well regarded on here it looks like, mostly because of the expensive normal sale price. Couldn't say no to trying it for the price though, cheaper than the Valvoline euro I just bought which was already a fantastic deal.
From Redline for Redline Professional Series Full Synthetic 5W40 :
- Factory approved for API SN, BMW LL-01, Mercedes Benz-Approval 229.5, Porsche A40 and VW/Audi 505.00/502.00
- Recommended for ACEA A3/B4-12, Mercedes Benz 229.3/226.5, Renault RN0700/RN0710 and PSA B71 2296
- BMW, Porsche, Mercedes-Benz and VW-Audi approval letters available by request
I used all factory Mercedes components including the trans. Everything was documented on my youtube channel, here is the actual swap video but there are about 6 videos in total covering parts, coding etc.Hey sweet. Please show some pics and a detailed step-by-step of what transmission you used, software to make the car not think its an automatic etc. This would be awesome! I've always wanted to takle something like this, but if memory serves me most if not all AMG vehicles were automatic.
Thx for the heads up, guess I fell into the trap *cue Admiral Ackbar*Echoing @OilReport99 here, the "Redline Professional" is just re-bottled P66/Kendall, there's absolutely nothing "special" about it that makes it worth any more than any other inexpensive approved product. You buying it is exactly why they made it: People are drawn in by the brand name on the bottle.
I missed the price. Didn’t see quantity.wouldn't say it's a waste of money exactly, 2.50 a quart for a full synthetic MB, Porsche approved oil seems like a steal no matter what brand.
If it is a bad oil that you have data on, I am all ears to being educated.
Well aside from the Mercedes dealer or Amazon, Formula M isn't that easy to find. Most of the time, people just run Mobil 1 0w40 all the time.it is a good option I am sure, but not easily found... unless you have a good source you can suggest?
Also for anyone still following I pose another question:
If I ran a dedicated race oil, or something with excellent film strength and shear stability, would it ever be doable to run a 0/5/10w30? or is moving down below a 40 grade a no-go in all circumstances?
Zero maintenance of any kind is kind of a stretch... and I BIG fan of the m113 for its durability, it doesn't take much to keep them going though so I can settle with you there.the 5.4 v8 requires zero maintenance of any kind, just put in 229.5, turn the key and drive. m1 0w40 can hold 300f all day long
I was looking at photo of that engine. I am not big fan of MB, so not too familiar with details of those engines, but what I saw is that it has fluid to fluid heat exchanger on filter. If you track a lot I would go air to fluid radiator as oil cooler. That heat exchanger on filter does not look anything exceptional. Actually it looks smaller than one on BMW N52/54/55 inline 6 engines and N54/55 with high speed synchronization come with air to fluid radiator. So your consumption might be also influenced by running constantly very high oil temperatures.Zero maintenance of any kind is kind of a stretch... and I BIG fan of the m113 for its durability, it doesn't take much to keep them going though so I can settle with you there.
m1 0w40 was used in the passed and like I stated originally but was being burned through too easily, so I am looking elsewhere. I will start with the 5w40 MB 229.5 specs and see how they do, then move up to 5w50 or 15w50 if necessary.
So, I am in process of adding oil cooler this week as N52 engines do not come with one (actually 328 does not come even with heat exchanger like you have). BMW has oil cooler thermostat that has inlet/outlet ports. Thermostat is gauged at 110c. There are low temperature aftermarket versions of 90c. 90c is usually choice of people that track N54/55 engines as they run super hot. You have naturally aspirated engine with pretty big sump, so around 110c would be probably right on target.Yea, it looks like a few companies make adapters for AN-10 fittings to the factory fluid cooled heat exchanger inlet/outlets.
Are you supposed to run a temp controlled valve for the air to fluid cooler? That is what I've heard in the past to avoid the oil staying too cool during normal driving etc..