C55 AMG - Oil recommendations for Track usage?

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MA
I was going to suggest Mobil 1 Formula M 5w40. That's usually what the Mercedes dealers stock and it's factory fill on AMG cars.
 

anderzen

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I was going to suggest Mobil 1 Formula M 5w40. That's usually what the Mercedes dealers stock and it's factory fill on AMG cars.
it is a good option I am sure, but not easily found... unless you have a good source you can suggest?

Also for anyone still following I pose another question:
If I ran a dedicated race oil, or something with excellent film strength and shear stability, would it ever be doable to run a 0/5/10w30? or is moving down below a 40 grade a no-go in all circumstances?
 

4WD

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it is a good option I am sure, but not easily found... unless you have a good source you can suggest?

Also for anyone still following I pose another question:
If I ran a dedicated race oil, or something with excellent film strength and shear stability, would it ever be doable to run a 0/5/10w30? or is moving down below a 40 grade a no-go in all circumstances?
Back when I was sound testing oil - got a six pack of M1 Formula M for $38 on eBay … now they sell it for over $50
Does not seem to fit what all is available these days …

BTW: it’s MB-229.5 … and here’s the $24/jug stuff

31FEBE88-0CC9-4F8D-B633-6D67DF11D679.png
 
Last edited:

anderzen

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Just bought 24 qts of Redline Professional Series Full Synthetic 5W40 for $60 so I guess I will add that to my collection of upcoming oils to try...
It is not well regarded on here it looks like, mostly because of the expensive normal sale price. Couldn't say no to trying it for the price though, cheaper than the Valvoline euro I just bought which was already a fantastic deal.

From Redline for Redline Professional Series Full Synthetic 5W40 :
  • Factory approved for API SN, BMW LL-01, Mercedes Benz-Approval 229.5, Porsche A40 and VW/Audi 505.00/502.00
  • Recommended for ACEA A3/B4-12, Mercedes Benz 229.3/226.5, Renault RN0700/RN0710 and PSA B71 2296
  • BMW, Porsche, Mercedes-Benz and VW-Audi approval letters available by request
 
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Hey sweet. Please show some pics and a detailed step-by-step of what transmission you used, software to make the car not think its an automatic etc. This would be awesome! I've always wanted to takle something like this, but if memory serves me most if not all AMG vehicles were automatic.
 
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Just bought 24 qts of Redline Professional Series Full Synthetic 5W40 for $60 so I guess I will add that to my collection of upcoming oils to try...
It is not well regarded on here it looks like, mostly because of the expensive normal sale price. Couldn't say no to trying it for the price though, cheaper than the Valvoline euro I just bought which was already a fantastic deal.

From Redline for Redline Professional Series Full Synthetic 5W40 :
  • Factory approved for API SN, BMW LL-01, Mercedes Benz-Approval 229.5, Porsche A40 and VW/Audi 505.00/502.00
  • Recommended for ACEA A3/B4-12, Mercedes Benz 229.3/226.5, Renault RN0700/RN0710 and PSA B71 2296
  • BMW, Porsche, Mercedes-Benz and VW-Audi approval letters available by request
The Redline Professional is rebranded Phillips 66/Kendall - not bad, but nothing special. You want the High Performance Oil for the track...the real Redline.



39E6B142-A388-4A52-A3CA-AF1340DBDADD.jpeg
 

OVERKILL

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Just bought 24 qts of Redline Professional Series Full Synthetic 5W40 for $60 so I guess I will add that to my collection of upcoming oils to try...
It is not well regarded on here it looks like, mostly because of the expensive normal sale price. Couldn't say no to trying it for the price though, cheaper than the Valvoline euro I just bought which was already a fantastic deal.

From Redline for Redline Professional Series Full Synthetic 5W40 :
  • Factory approved for API SN, BMW LL-01, Mercedes Benz-Approval 229.5, Porsche A40 and VW/Audi 505.00/502.00
  • Recommended for ACEA A3/B4-12, Mercedes Benz 229.3/226.5, Renault RN0700/RN0710 and PSA B71 2296
  • BMW, Porsche, Mercedes-Benz and VW-Audi approval letters available by request

Echoing @OilReport99 here, the "Redline Professional" is just re-bottled P66/Kendall, there's absolutely nothing "special" about it that makes it worth any more than any other inexpensive approved product. You buying it is exactly why they made it: People are drawn in by the brand name on the bottle.
 

anderzen

Thread starter
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Seattle, WA
Hey sweet. Please show some pics and a detailed step-by-step of what transmission you used, software to make the car not think its an automatic etc. This would be awesome! I've always wanted to takle something like this, but if memory serves me most if not all AMG vehicles were automatic.
I used all factory Mercedes components including the trans. Everything was documented on my youtube channel, here is the actual swap video but there are about 6 videos in total covering parts, coding etc.
Parts list and wrtie up can be found here:

I think the last and only time Mercedes + AMG offered a manual was in mid 80's with a rare option for the 560sec. I am sure there were other times they could be special ordered but idk...
 

anderzen

Thread starter
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Seattle, WA
Echoing @OilReport99 here, the "Redline Professional" is just re-bottled P66/Kendall, there's absolutely nothing "special" about it that makes it worth any more than any other inexpensive approved product. You buying it is exactly why they made it: People are drawn in by the brand name on the bottle.
Thx for the heads up, guess I fell into the trap *cue Admiral Ackbar*
That's ok though, even if not the greatness of Redline racing oil, I'll take it as a very cheap stock of good MB approved synthetic 5w40 to go through on the C55 or I'll use it on the ML55 which just sees passenger car duty for the most part.

Still plan to try the Mobil 1 15w50 as well, and like I said I will follow through with my findings (one of my pet peeves is people leaving people hanging on the internet with no follow up haha!)

Any known VOA/UOA on the 5w40 Kendall/Redline? From the VOA I see of the other weight doesn't look too bad...
 

anderzen

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Messages
27
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Seattle, WA
wouldn't say it's a waste of money exactly, 2.50 a quart for a full synthetic MB, Porsche approved oil seems like a steal no matter what brand.
If it is a bad oil that you have data on, I am all ears to being educated.

even if it is in fact the exact same formulation as Kendall GT-1 Euro, Amazon has it listed for $80 + shipping for only 12qts.
 
Messages
10,536
Location
MA
it is a good option I am sure, but not easily found... unless you have a good source you can suggest?

Also for anyone still following I pose another question:
If I ran a dedicated race oil, or something with excellent film strength and shear stability, would it ever be doable to run a 0/5/10w30? or is moving down below a 40 grade a no-go in all circumstances?
Well aside from the Mercedes dealer or Amazon, Formula M isn't that easy to find. Most of the time, people just run Mobil 1 0w40 all the time.

I would stick with a 229.5 oil, there's only a few grades that make that spec.
 

anderzen

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27
Location
Seattle, WA
the 5.4 v8 requires zero maintenance of any kind, just put in 229.5, turn the key and drive. m1 0w40 can hold 300f all day long
Zero maintenance of any kind is kind of a stretch... and I BIG fan of the m113 for its durability, it doesn't take much to keep them going though so I can settle with you there.

m1 0w40 was used in the passed and like I stated originally but was being burned through too easily, so I am looking elsewhere. I will start with the 5w40 MB 229.5 specs and see how they do, then move up to 5w50 or 15w50 if necessary.
 
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California
I’ll throw this out there... assuming you have some fuel dilution, not sure if you’ve had any UOAs done but a Polaris test can give you an accurate number.

it’s not easily available at Walmart, however Renewable Lubricants HD oils are known for resisting viscosity loss due to FD. I always get 2-3% FD in my 2.8 Duramax, yet the oil pressure changes very little unlike other HD oils I’ve tried in this engine. All the RLI HD low ash oil have ~1100 ppm of ZDDP and 500 ppm of antimony DTC w/ 2500 ppm of Calcium.

The 5w40 HD Low Ash was designed to overcome shortcomings of VW 502 for the RS4 and has a high HTHS of 4.8 cP. The 15w40 HD is even higher and has the HTHS of a 20w50 at 5.2 cP. Like Redline, these are all high density, high VI group 5 lubricants and as a result have the HTHS of a grade higher than normal except for the 10w30 HD.

I order it from Zoro or Grainger which is usuallly the cheapest with discounts however Amazon also carries their oils too.
 
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12,122
Location
Colorado Springs
Zero maintenance of any kind is kind of a stretch... and I BIG fan of the m113 for its durability, it doesn't take much to keep them going though so I can settle with you there.

m1 0w40 was used in the passed and like I stated originally but was being burned through too easily, so I am looking elsewhere. I will start with the 5w40 MB 229.5 specs and see how they do, then move up to 5w50 or 15w50 if necessary.
I was looking at photo of that engine. I am not big fan of MB, so not too familiar with details of those engines, but what I saw is that it has fluid to fluid heat exchanger on filter. If you track a lot I would go air to fluid radiator as oil cooler. That heat exchanger on filter does not look anything exceptional. Actually it looks smaller than one on BMW N52/54/55 inline 6 engines and N54/55 with high speed synchronization come with air to fluid radiator. So your consumption might be also influenced by running constantly very high oil temperatures.
 

anderzen

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27
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Seattle, WA
Yea, it looks like a few companies make adapters for AN-10 fittings to the factory fluid cooled heat exchanger inlet/outlets.

Are you supposed to run a temp controlled valve for the air to fluid cooler? That is what I've heard in the past to avoid the oil staying too cool during normal driving etc..
 
Messages
12,122
Location
Colorado Springs
Yea, it looks like a few companies make adapters for AN-10 fittings to the factory fluid cooled heat exchanger inlet/outlets.

Are you supposed to run a temp controlled valve for the air to fluid cooler? That is what I've heard in the past to avoid the oil staying too cool during normal driving etc..
So, I am in process of adding oil cooler this week as N52 engines do not come with one (actually 328 does not come even with heat exchanger like you have). BMW has oil cooler thermostat that has inlet/outlet ports. Thermostat is gauged at 110c. There are low temperature aftermarket versions of 90c. 90c is usually choice of people that track N54/55 engines as they run super hot. You have naturally aspirated engine with pretty big sump, so around 110c would be probably right on target.
Here is cooler for CL55:
I cannot find oil cooler thermostat for MB. You probably know better MB part sources.
One other option is to go lower coolant thermostat, like this:
This will improve effectiveness of that existing heat exchanger. You could try that as probably it is most simple solution. If it works, great.
 
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