attention cheap oil users

[slacktide_bitog]

Originally Posted By: Astro_Guy
$300 for a set of tires? Seriously?


Yes, $300 will often buy a set of tires for cars with reasonably-sized tires and not those big donk dubs with no-profile tires on 20-inch wheels that seem to be so popular now

But back when tires used to have sidewalls, and wheels were a more reasonable size, yes you can get a set of tires for $300 or even less, especially with those rebate sales that DTD runs throughout the year. In many cases, the rebates can greatly exceed $100 when you stack the mfr rebate with DTD's own.

Sometimes even the regular price is under $100 per tire, and you can get $100 or more off that!

One time I got a set of Cooper CS5 Ultras in the size 195/60-15, regular price $80 each, and $120 in rebates ($50 from DTD, $70 from Cooper)

 

[93cruiser]

Originally Posted By: Linctex
Originally Posted By: 93cruiser

15.68/5000=.003136 per mile cost
23.97/5000=.004794 per mile cost
Really? Why would you just not buy better oil? The savings is basically nothing, and works out to pennies a day.
Ok, so let me have it, tell me how I am wrong.


This is how you are wrong:

1) In your mind, more $ = better oil.
You have no proof of that. It is SPECULATION.

2) In your mind, better oil (in this case, more $) = longer engine life.
AGAIN, that is speculation.

You can't provide a test or research paper that will back up and PROVE what is just an opinion.


no, i am going by the levels of protection in oil analysis of name brand vs no name.

 

[blupupher]

Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
Originally Posted By: Astro_Guy
$300 for a set of tires? Seriously?


Yes, $300 will often buy a set of tires for cars with reasonably-sized tires and not those big donk dubs with no-profile tires on 20-inch wheels that seem to be so popular now

But back when tires used to have sidewalls, and wheels were a more reasonable size, yes you can get a set of tires for $300 or even less, especially with those rebate sales that DTD runs throughout the year. In many cases, the rebates can greatly exceed $100 when you stack the mfr rebate with DTD's own.

Sometimes even the regular price is under $100 per tire, and you can get $100 or more off that!

One time I got a set of Cooper CS5 Ultras in the size 195/60-15, regular price $80 each, and $120 in rebates ($50 from DTD, $70 from Cooper)

Exactly. I got a set of 4 Goodyear Assureance (fuel max??) 205/55R15 for the Scion for But those are the cheap Goodyears, so my car will blow up @ 248,000 instead of 250,000 if I had used better tires.

 

[93cruiser]

Originally Posted By: MuzzleFlash40
I bought a few jugs of Rural King synthetic, i'm going to run it on my next oil change in my GDI to see how it holds up. I also have 2 jugs of Castrol Syntec I got on sale for the next OCI. If both UOA's turn out to be the same, i'll probably stick with RK since it goes on sale all the time here for $9.99 a jug and is $10.99 regular price for a D1G2 oil. Wish they made a high mileage oil too.


9.99 for full synthetic? That was not my example. But do you run it 5k? So 19.98 per 10k? If so, it lines up with my example of no thanks, will just pay pennies more for name brand.

Also, you hit my point exactly when you said we will see how it holds up. Why gamble your engines life blood for pennies?
no thanks

 

[MuzzleFlash40]

Originally Posted By: 93cruiser
Originally Posted By: MuzzleFlash40
I bought a few jugs of Rural King synthetic, i'm going to run it on my next oil change in my GDI to see how it holds up. I also have 2 jugs of Castrol Syntec I got on sale for the next OCI. If both UOA's turn out to be the same, i'll probably stick with RK since it goes on sale all the time here for $9.99 a jug and is $10.99 regular price for a D1G2 oil. Wish they made a high mileage oil too.


9.99 for full synthetic? That was not my example. But do you run it 5k? So 19.98 per 10k? If so, it lines up with my example of no thanks, will just pay pennies more for name brand.

Also, you hit my point exactly when you said we will see how it holds up. Why gamble your engines life blood for pennies?
no thanks


In a GDI engine I wouldn't run anything more than 6-7k with fuel dilution issues, and since it is under warranty i'm going to do 5k OCI's for the full 100k. At the savings of 10 bucks an oil change which is $30 a year over the 10 years I plan on keeping this car is $300. That isn't a lot of money, but why waste it either?

Some name brand oils have a higher TBN than store brand which is an important factor if doing a longer run, but you can save your breath if you think you're going to convince me that using name brand X over store brand Y in a short 5k run such as many do will make a difference. It's the GDI that scares me, not the oil. That's why i'm testing both.

 

[BAJA_05]

I put almost 110,000 miles on a 06 Ford Explorer 4.0L using Smittys Super S Blend 5W30 at 5000 mile intervals paired with a ST filter. The Smittys was picked up at KMart for $9.00 a 5 quart jug and the filter was less then 3 bucks. That Explorer ran great from the day I purchased it till the day I sold it. As long as the oil has the proper approvals/specs like SN -- I had no worries then and have no worries now moving forward with using cheaper oils. For the new Jetta in signature -- I use what specs VW approves because it is under warranty. The Acura and Subaru -- no problem using a cheaper oil for me. When your a homeowner -- you try to cut corners and save money whenever you can logically!!

Dale

 

[Dallas69]

I am using Smittys in my old truck now and of course I can't tell any difference.
Smittys gets namebrand base oil and blends a very good oil.No giant advertising to drive up price.
Warren makes a very good too

 

[93cruiser]

Originally Posted By: BAJA_05
I put almost 110,000 miles on a 06 Ford Explorer 4.0L using Smittys Super S Blend 5W30 at 5000 mile intervals paired with a ST filter. The Smittys was picked up at KMart for $9.00 a 5 quart jug and the filter was less then 3 bucks. That Explorer ran great from the day I purchased it till the day I sold it. As long as the oil has the proper approvals/specs like SN -- I had no worries then and have no worries now moving forward with using cheaper oils. For the new Jetta in signature -- I use what specs VW approves because it is under warranty. The Acura and Subaru -- no problem using a cheaper oil for me. When your a homeowner -- you try to cut corners and save money whenever you can logically!!

Dale


I am a homeowner, and I save. I have a 20 year bi weekly mortgage, will be paid off next year, after I believe 17.5 years. I max out my 401k, as does my wife, we save and invest on my own, don't overspend, will use coupons if they pertain to our items for the food shopping, etc. I'm retiring at 55, or project to, so I know a bit regarding saving and smart investing, understanding risk vs reward. It's just that the money saved over time is so nill using sub-par oil, one would not even realize it in this situation.

Logically, to me, it makes zero sense to run a lesser oil to save so little over a long period. The reward is just not there to run a low TBN, low additive mix in my engine. Just me. I can't see it, and I strongly feel for the cost savings, it is not worth running cheap oil.

Much better ways to save in my opinion. Thanks for all the comments

 

[Dallas69]

The point you're missing is cheaper oil does not mean sub par oil.
As long as it is API approved and has the starburst and donut on the bottle you are good to go.
This applies to most cars but if you have something exotic then no.
With namebrand oils you are paying for advertising and marketing.

 

[Shannow]

Buying "Chocolate Starfish" or "Calendar Dog" brand never known of oil at the 2c storeto save $$$ is I agree, an ignorant waste of dollars and consumer of engine life.

Buying an oil that is less cost, and carries the appropriate "proper" certifications and labels isn't wasting any money at all..they ALL meet the appropriate specs.

OVERPAYING for a speciality product that "meets or exceeds", without carrying any formal approvals is not "piece of mind", it's particularly $$$ wasteful when there's no demonstrable lifetime cost reduction.

 

[CharBaby]

Originally Posted By: Char Baby
I put as much as 340,000 miles on vehicles using store brand oils(SuperTech, AAP, AZ, ProLine etc.)@ 5K mile OCI's. And over 200K miles on many other cars.


I should have added that I also used name brand oils on the cheap. Years ago, Havoline was always to be had on sale and with a rebate, bringing down the price to .29c-.49c/qt.

Sometimes I could get another brand such as Exxon or Chevron, or Trop Arctic for .09c-.19c/qt. So, cheap oil is for me. Yes, I am referring to the 80s & 90s. But even today, I am paying ~ $1-$2/qt for some name brand synthetics that are being closed out or discontinued.

Just recently, I scored 15 qts of QSUD Syn for .75c/qt at an AAP Closeout. And I'd gladly buy a store brand dino oil for that price or a dollar/qt. When we had 4-5 cars to maintain, we need cheap(not junk) oil.

 

[dave1251]

I will use only "cheap" oils from now on.

 

[CaspianM]

Originally Posted By: 93cruiser
So, why do you buy cheap oil?

Example, walmart supertech synthetic 5qt, 15.68.
Mobil 1 sythetic 5qt, 23.97
Price difference =8.29, or 1.65 a quart

1.65 a quart. 1.65 a quart savings for "ok" oil, certainly not great oil.

Say you run 5k mile interval.
15.68/5000=.003136 per mile cost
23.97/5000=.004794 per mile cost

Really? Why would you just not buy better oil? The savings is basically nothing, and works out to pennies a day.

I am all for saving. If I got oil daily, or weekly, maybe cheap oil makes sense. But not for 5k miles.

I know it all adds up, but if you buy a car to keep it, why use toned down oil for basically no measurable savings?

Ok, so let me have it, tell me how I am wrong.




It all depends. If I was driving a car that is not worth much such as a car with over 100k miles, drive a lot, the car burns oil, out of job, Walmart branded oil is fine. But I would not use it otherwise.
An oil such as M1 is a proven high quality oil that is a factory fill in some cars and exxon has done great research on it. It is true that cheaper oil may be as good but we do not know that for sure. we all spend money for peace of mind which is not a bad idea.
However, I always look for deals on what I want not what they want to sell me. Penny pinching on my expensive car could be a very risky investment strategy.
At the end of the day, I decide based on what my overall strategy is. Decision would be based on best maintenance for the dollar or least to get away. The saying "you get what you pay for" is actually might be true. If not I have not lost much anyway.

 

[bchannell]

I won't even argue the oil's cost. I only argue the premise that expensive oil is better than cheaper oil. There is simply no basis for the assumption that "name" oil is capable of longer engine life than "non name" oil.

My ONLY real point is, that it is POSSILBE, that we really don't need all those additives in expensive oil, (or maybe the level of additives), to have an engine last hundreds of thousands of miles.

I just think we're all, to some degree, affected by the big oil advertising and hype.

 

[RoadRaceJosh]

Originally Posted By: BJD78
Exactly,and rebates are a pain to deal with and most of the time when you get a rebate, if you get one it is many weeks later. I do not care for rebates at all. I have tried Menards rebates a time or 2 and either never got it or the rebate check came so many months later that I no longer cared about it. Rebates are a scam IMO. Stores should just discount the product and be done with it.


Between SOPUS, Chevron and Mobil I've done a couple oil rebates a year for the past 3 years and never missed receiving the check. Money back is money back. I'll bet you'd holler if I randomly took $10 from you. That's the other side of the coin of no longer caring.

 

[53' Stude]

Originally Posted By: dave1251
I will use only "cheap" oils from now on.


Yeah, DNewton3 ran co conventional store brand oil like 14k without issues.

Just because its "store brand" or "cheap oil" does NOT mean its bad oil

 

[93cruiser]

Originally Posted By: bchannell
I won't even argue the oil's cost. I only argue the premise that expensive oil is better than cheaper oil. There is simply no basis for the assumption that "name" oil is capable of longer engine life than "non name" oil.

My ONLY real point is, that it is POSSILBE, that we really don't need all those additives in expensive oil, (or maybe the level of additives), to have an engine last hundreds of thousands of miles.

I just think we're all, to some degree, affected by the big oil advertising and hype.


so I guess the virgin oil analysis reports showing name brand oil to have a higher TBN, higher additive count, more additives doesnt show it is better?

Sorry, I'll agree to disagree, you are discounting facts, like a lot have in this thread.

Facts:
1. Name brand oil has a higher TBN, and a higher additive count.
2. To buy name brand oil, the price when broken down over time, is really not much more expensive.
3. Some people can not understand the point I am making, or attempted to.


Logic points to saying no to lesser oils! They are not doing anything but bare minimum, who wants it or needs it for pennies saved. If anyone does run it, I don't understand, and have really not seen any facts or logical reason to run a lesser oil in this discussion.

All- Please Don't reply back saying it protects the same, it doesnt, and can't with lesser additives. Don't reply back saying it will work, yea I know it will. The topic is for the meager savings, why bother or subject your ride to it. A lot of people keep missing the topic.

Another example, if you are hiring someone. person A is qualified to do the job and not willing to learn or go above and beyond, and wants 50 an hour. person B is a hard worker, willing to learn and do more, and wants 51 an hour. going to hire person A?? Crazy if you do. Cost vs reward.

 

[wemay]

An $8 hammer will flatten the fly flatter than the $2 fly swatter. The fly is dead either way, job done.

 

[kschachn]

Originally Posted By: 93cruiser
so I guess the virgin oil analysis reports showing name brand oil to have a higher TBN, higher additive count, more additives doesnt show it is better?

Sorry, I'll agree to disagree, you are discounting facts, like a lot have in this thread.

Facts:
1. Name brand oil has a higher TBN, and a higher additive count.
2. To buy name brand oil, the price when broken down over time, is really not much more expensive.
3. Some people can not understand the point I am making, or attempted to.

Logic points to saying no to lesser oils! They are not doing anything but bare minimum, who wants it or needs it for pennies saved. If anyone does run it, I don't understand, and have really not seen any facts or logical reason to run a lesser oil in this discussion.

All- Please Don't reply back saying it protects the same, it doesnt, and can't with lesser additives. Don't reply back saying it will work, yea I know it will. The topic is for the meager savings, why bother or subject your ride to it. A lot of people keep missing the topic.

None of which points to increased engine longevity of course. Very, very few individuals ever run their oil out to 0 TBN and the other things you say in general about "additives" aren't supported by any data I've ever seen. Have you?

 

[SirTanon]

I'm going to whittle down everything in your post and just address the 3 points you made, logically, since you seem to think that "Logic points to saying no to lesser oils".

Originally Posted By: 93cruiser
1. Name brand oil has a higher TBN, and a higher additive count.


As a blanket statement, this is just plain wrong. Sure SOME name brand oils have higher TBN, etc.. but to basically imply that they all do is misleading and incorrect.

Take the data presented HERE (PQIA consolidated 5w-20 oils 2014).

Sure, Pennzoil has the highest TBN with 9.46, and yeah that's quite good.. but that's the odd one out. Let's look at the others:

Havoline (Syn) - 8.8 (very good)
Castrol GTX - 7.73 (average)
Quaker State - 7.87 (average)
Motorcraft - 8.03 (good)
Peak - 7.09 (low)
Valvoline (NextGen) - 6.86 (low)
Valvoline Conv - 6.82 (low)
Mobil Super 5000 - 8.61 (very good)
Chevron Supreme - 6.98 (low)
Kendall GT (Syn) - 7.97 (good)

--- for an average of 7.633 (7.799 if you add Pennzoil's 9.46 TBN)

Contrast that with many of the store brand / in-house oils:

Federated Auto - 7.1 (low)
Certified - 8.4 (very good)
Autozone - 7.32 (average)
O'Reilly - 7.21 (average)
Advance Auto - 7.34 (average)
Traveller - 7.34 (average)
Speedway - 8.37 (very good)
Service Pro - 8.51 (very good)
Ace - 7.95 (good)
Sheetz - 8.9 (excellent)

--- for an average of 7.844

..... even if we figure in Pennzoil's stellar TBN, these Name Brand oils still average LOWER TBN than these store brand's TBNs.

So.... Your point 1 is dismissable. Which is really the "lesser oil"?


Originally Posted By: 93cruiser
2. To buy name brand oil, the price when broken down over time, is really not much more expensive.


Perhaps, but this point is moot, since point 1 is false. Based off your "Name brand is better because TBN" argument, there is no benefit to spending more on the Name Brand, based on the figures above.

Also, to someone living on a shoestring budget, spending $12 on a 5-quart jug of store-brand oil vs. $17 on name-brand may just be the difference between putting good food on the table that night and eating ramen.

Originally Posted By: 93cruiser
3. Some people can not understand the point I am making, or attempted to.


Well, if the point was valid, maybe.. it's not, at least not based off of the argument you presented in point 1.


Bottom line - Name brand motor oils do provide something valuable - consistency. Many of them also provide certification (Dexos,etc..). Both of these are valuable, but to argue that they should be purchased at the exclusion of store brand oils, when store brand oils (at least the ones listed above) meet SN certification is just bad advice, especially to a person on a budget.

For someone who only really needs to meet the minimum requirements (3000-5000 mile OCI, light-duty use, etc..), the cheap store-brand will virtually always work just as well. I mean, if you WANT to throw away the extra $5, that's up to you..