Does the oil brand actually matter? Is this all just hyperbole?
- Thread starter Dreamliner
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Cleveland Browns..
If you hang around long enough you will know, like everyone else, that Lucas oil is the best oil ever made or is it HPL? Now I’m confused.
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I don't understand, especially guys on this site that purchase these cars. We should certainly know better.
What cars?
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In my opinion, regarding extending OCI’s and oil brand…it’s 70% engine design, 20% your driving commute/tendencies, and 10% the actual oil you use.
Something like that ^^^, give or take 10% between engine and commute. I just feel the oils are very similar right now with formulations/base stocks/additives/ISLAC GF6A. And they’re all pretty good.
Something like that ^^^, give or take 10% between engine and commute. I just feel the oils are very similar right now with formulations/base stocks/additives/ISLAC GF6A. And they’re all pretty good.
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Hyundai's and Kia's with the Theta engines. Gotta read the thread ya know
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His confusion arose from your quoting ankther user's post in one of your posts while adding no information, then following with a second post with a sentence that makes it look like you're replying to nothing. Gotta learn how to properly operate forum software and use the 'quote' feature, ya know?
My question to you is… why are you overthinking this?
Your last car allowed for 15k intervals.
Your current car reminds you at 9k.
Explain to me the reasoning to go longer??? You like driving around with the maintenance wrench illuminated on the dash every time you start the car?
The extended intervals are for those who do a lot of easy long distance travel and have an engine that easily handles it without complaining.
It all comes down to… do you want to use up ALL of the oil additives or you’d rather change it out at 20% life left or 30%?
Some people prefer to dump it at an early 50% usage because they want ZE BEST oil in the engine at all times. that’s fine too. WHO CARES?!?!
When you state that your post is a "Ted Talk" and include the words "ooga booga!" it becomes fascinating just to watch.
However he did include the disclaimer that he wasn't just trying to stir stuff up.
However he did include the disclaimer that he wasn't just trying to stir stuff up.
It's not always about the oil or filter quality, but oil dilution on today's direct injected engines seem to ruin the oil before it would otherwise go bad.
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And you are who? All he had to do was follow the thread. Proxy spokesman.His confusion arose from your quoting ankther user's post in one of your posts while adding no information, then following with a second post with a sentence that makes it look like you're replying to nothing. Gotta learn how to properly operate forum software and use the 'quote' feature, ya know?
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If you're going to imply someone else is an imbecile, then turns out is fair play, friend. No biggie.
Is your budget so cost constrained that you're going to long OCIs on your BMW or Acura to keep cost per mile equivalent? If not, it's a false comparison.
Then change it as often as makes you feel good. The N52 was a really robust engine and did well on any LL-01 oil. (I'm assuming your 330 was an N52.) I never ran more than 7500 OCI on mine. But in the end it got hit and sold, so what was the point? The N52 probably isn't a good metric for your Acura. Your driving habits and your expectations for the car should dictate where you stand.
Why would I do a $45 UOA when the rebate oil was only $16 and takes 30 minutes to change. I have to put the car on ramps and crawl under there in either scenario.
Sludge/varnish accumulation over time would be a concern I would have with extended OCI.Honestly not trying to stir stuff up, just hear me out.
Regardless of the oil brand or duration, most of the 'I sent my oil in for analysis' posts result in the same conclusion: "I could have gone longer." So, I simply ask, why not?
My last car was a 2001 BMW 330xi and I had it for 14 years. I used to only buy dealer oil ("nothing but the best for my baby" type thinking) and Mann oil filters, when BMW switched their oil supplier I figured "if they can switch, so can I," and went to Mobil 1 0W-40 Euro because it was LL-01 approved. Some time ago that M1 oil lost the LL-01 certification, I didn't know what to do so I just kept using it.
My 330xi took SEVEN QUARTS of oil, so I was completely fine with longer OCI. The oil service minder reset at 15,525 miles. Since the car took so much oil I changed it every 10k. Later on I just drove it until the car told me the oil service was due.
Now I have an Acura TL (4.5 quarts). I've been using Mobil 1 Extended Performance 0W-20 and Fram Ultra Synthetic filter, replacing when the oil service minder goes off at 9,000 miles. Both the oil & filter say they're rated for 20k miles. Heck, even the user manual calls for changing the oil filter ever other oil change (I do it every time).
This has me wondering. I know a lot of you are changing at 5K, some are crazy enough to do it at 3k because it's still 1975 in your garage. What's really wrong with going 10k, 12k or 15k on the oil/filter if the manufacturer says so and so does the oil analysis places (I've seen some 15k high mileage OCI analysis has had Blackstone noting to try even longer...) say it's okay too?
What flared this up was some recent deals I've seen going on:
$24.29 5qt M1 0W-20 EP (Sold as 3 pack @ $72.88)
$22.29 5qt M1 0W-20 AFE (Sold as 3 pack @ $66.88)
$15.50 5qt Kirkland 0W-20 (Warren Full Synthetic sold as 2 pack @ $30.99)
$14.48 5qt Pennzoil 0W-20 Platinum (Not Ultra, after $25 rebate shenanigans buying 2 pack @ $26.98 each)
If I really drill down, the math is crazy:
For the cost per mile to be the same it'd be 14,100 miles on M1 EP vs 9,000 miles on Kirkland/Warren. I'd wager just about everyone here would rather use Kirkland/Warren and change at 9,000 miles, right? Even still, maybe going longer on M1 EP would have me changing the oil less often...
So I figured, all things considered, if I kept changing every 9000 miles, does it even matter what I use? Why not go longer?
Any thoughts other than "oil cheap, engines expensive, ooga booga!"
Thanks for coming to my Ted Talk.
Using HPL Ester + AN formula should remove this concern, but most of us are using cheaper oils.
I prefer changing my oil at 4,000 miles / 6 months (whichever comes first) with a low cost full synthetic 5W-30.
The oil is drained out before it can start forming sludge/varnish in my VCM Enabled Honda J35A7 engines which are very hard on the oil due to extreme hot spots on the front cylinder heads which cook the oil forming sludge/varnish over time due to the VCM turning off the front 3 cylinders and a poorly designed OEM PCV valve system.
It's all about engine cleanliness for me. Stuck gummed up oil control rings due to poor maintenance can cause groves in your cylinder walls which would cause excessive oil burning and eventual engine replacement. Sludge/varnish can eventually clog oil passageways and lead to a premature death to your engine.
I would rather do 4k/6 month OCI than do 10k+/1 year OCI and have to pay for UOA's from oil testing labs.
No UOA that I've seen can detect the formation of sludge/varnish, so in my mind UOA's are not of much value.
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I just like changing around 5k. In my use that's still barely more than 1x a year. Do I advocate for other to do so? No. Do whatever makes you happy.
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