Does the oil brand actually matter? Is this all just hyperbole?

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Aug 13, 2023
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Honestly not trying to stir stuff up, just hear me out.

Regardless of the oil brand or duration, most of the 'I sent my oil in for analysis' posts result in the same conclusion: "I could have gone longer." So, I simply ask, why not?

My last car was a 2001 BMW 330xi and I had it for 14 years. I used to only buy dealer oil ("nothing but the best for my baby" type thinking) and Mann oil filters, when BMW switched their oil supplier I figured "if they can switch, so can I," and went to Mobil 1 0W-40 Euro because it was LL-01 approved. Some time ago that M1 oil lost the LL-01 certification, I didn't know what to do so I just kept using it.

My 330xi took SEVEN QUARTS of oil, so I was completely fine with longer OCI. The oil service minder reset at 15,525 miles. Since the car took so much oil I changed it every 10k. Later on I just drove it until the car told me the oil service was due.

Now I have an Acura TL (4.5 quarts). I've been using Mobil 1 Extended Performance 0W-20 and Fram Ultra Synthetic filter, replacing when the oil service minder goes off at 9,000 miles. Both the oil & filter say they're rated for 20k miles. Heck, even the user manual calls for changing the oil filter ever other oil change (I do it every time).

This has me wondering. I know a lot of you are changing at 5K, some are crazy enough to do it at 3k because it's still 1975 in your garage. What's really wrong with going 10k, 12k or 15k on the oil/filter if the manufacturer says so and so does the oil analysis places (I've seen some 15k high mileage OCI analysis has had Blackstone noting to try even longer...) say it's okay too?

What flared this up was some recent deals I've seen going on:

$24.29 5qt M1 0W-20 EP (Sold as 3 pack @ $72.88)
$22.29 5qt M1 0W-20 AFE (Sold as 3 pack @ $66.88)
$15.50 5qt Kirkland 0W-20 (Warren Full Synthetic sold as 2 pack @ $30.99)
$14.48 5qt Pennzoil 0W-20 Platinum (Not Ultra, after $25 rebate shenanigans buying 2 pack @ $26.98 each)

If I really drill down, the math is crazy:

For the cost per mile to be the same it'd be 14,100 miles on M1 EP vs 9,000 miles on Kirkland/Warren. I'd wager just about everyone here would rather use Kirkland/Warren and change at 9,000 miles, right? Even still, maybe going longer on M1 EP would have me changing the oil less often...

So I figured, all things considered, if I kept changing every 9000 miles, does it even matter what I use? Why not go longer?

Any thoughts other than "oil cheap, engines expensive, ooga booga!"

Thanks for coming to my Ted Talk. :)
 
You presume a lot, when you say things like “everyone here would”. There is a great range of opinions, and I encourage you to read more to discover some of those opinions, as well as what intervals various members have elected..

You’ve brought up a topic that has been hashed over in literally hundreds of different threads. This isn’t a new question nor will you get a new answer, and I would encourage use of search, as well as a lot more reading. .
 
You presume a lot, when you say things like “everyone here would”. There is a great range of opinions, and I encourage you to read more to discover some of those opinions, as well as what intervals various members have elected..

You’ve brought up a topic that has been hashed over in literally hundreds of different threads. This isn’t a new question nor will you get a new answer, and I would encourage use of search, as well as a lot more reading. .
I think he’s trolling for answers to he honest. Anything that starts out “honestly”. Yeah right
 
You presume a lot, when you say things like “everyone here would”. There is a great range of opinions, and I encourage you to read more to discover some of those opinions, as well as what intervals various members have elected..

You’ve brought up a topic that has been hashed over in literally hundreds of different threads. This isn’t a new question nor will you get a new answer, and I would encourage use of search, as well as a lot more reading. .
Actually, I said "about everyone" as most people on here strongly advocate 5,000 OCI.

I haven't seen many debates on changing OCI based on oil brand, for example. So if OCI remains constant, why does oil brand matter? If the additive packages make a big difference, why not longer OCI to utilize it?
 
Actually, I said "about everyone" as most people on here strongly advocate 5,000 OCI.

I haven't seen many debates on changing OCI based on oil brand, for example. So if OCI remains constant, why does oil brand matter? If the additive packages make a big difference, why not longer OCI to utilize it?
Then you haven’t read enough, and you haven’t paid attention enough.

Most of the posts you’ve read may have said that, but it is far from consensus.

If you haven’t seen many debates on oil change interval, based on brand, then you haven’t been here very very much.

Your entire opening premise is both inaccurate and condescending, as if you've only observed one opinion on a forum with 70+ thousand members, where opinions very widely.

There are a great many threads, and hundreds of thousands of posts, discussing the difference in additive packages, and how they enable a longer oil change interval, since you appear to have missed most of those posts, again, I encourage you to go back and read.
 
Honestly not trying to stir stuff up, just hear me out.

Regardless of the oil brand or duration, most of the 'I sent my oil in for analysis' posts result in the same conclusion: "I could have gone longer." So, I simply ask, why not?

My last car was a 2001 BMW 330xi and I had it for 14 years. I used to only buy dealer oil ("nothing but the best for my baby" type thinking) and Mann oil filters, when BMW switched their oil supplier I figured "if they can switch, so can I," and went to Mobil 1 0W-40 Euro because it was LL-01 approved. Some time ago that M1 oil lost the LL-01 certification, I didn't know what to do so I just kept using it.

My 330xi took SEVEN QUARTS of oil, so I was completely fine with longer OCI. The oil service minder reset at 15,525 miles. Since the car took so much oil I changed it every 10k. Later on I just drove it until the car told me the oil service was due.

Now I have an Acura TL (4.5 quarts). I've been using Mobil 1 Extended Performance 0W-20 and Fram Ultra Synthetic filter, replacing when the oil service minder goes off at 9,000 miles. Both the oil & filter say they're rated for 20k miles. Heck, even the user manual calls for changing the oil filter ever other oil change (I do it every time).

This has me wondering. I know a lot of you are changing at 5K, some are crazy enough to do it at 3k because it's still 1975 in your garage. What's really wrong with going 10k, 12k or 15k on the oil/filter if the manufacturer says so and so does the oil analysis places (I've seen some 15k high mileage OCI analysis has had Blackstone noting to try even longer...) say it's okay too?

What flared this up was some recent deals I've seen going on:

$24.29 5qt M1 0W-20 EP (Sold as 3 pack @ $72.88)
$22.29 5qt M1 0W-20 AFE (Sold as 3 pack @ $66.88)
$15.50 5qt Kirkland 0W-20 (Warren Full Synthetic sold as 2 pack @ $30.99)
$14.48 5qt Pennzoil 0W-20 Platinum (Not Ultra, after $25 rebate shenanigans buying 2 pack @ $26.98 each)

If I really drill down, the math is crazy:

For the cost per mile to be the same it'd be 14,100 miles on M1 EP vs 9,000 miles on Kirkland/Warren. I'd wager just about everyone here would rather use Kirkland/Warren and change at 9,000 miles, right? Even still, maybe going longer on M1 EP would have me changing the oil less often...

So I figured, all things considered, if I kept changing every 9000 miles, does it even matter what I use? Why not go longer?

Any thoughts other than "oil cheap, engines expensive, ooga booga!"

Thanks for coming to my Ted Talk. :)
if it doesn’t matter to you what oil you use it doesn’t matter to us.
 
Actually, I said "about everyone" as most people on here strongly advocate 5,000 OCI.
No, they don't. Maybe some loud, self-proclaimed "experts" do and yeah, the excuse "oil is cheap, engines are not" gets thrown around a lot. Fact is, most cars get their oil changed when the "oil change light" in the car comes on, which can range from 5k to 10k+ miles, based on the model.

Engines aren't routinely failing as long as the oil gets changed by 15k miles (not suggesting that interval, mind you). Actually, I think 15k miles are typical in Europe. Could be a diesel thing though.
 
I use Kirkland oil generally and change it frequently. Most cars rust out or the tranny or something happens to disable the car. Engines are built very well and outlast the vehicle. Sure there are some horror stories however for the most part the longer oil change intervals will work just fine. I prefer to change quite frequently, do it myself, and have never had an oil burning vehicle. When I look at Carfax I look to see how often the oil is changed and if it's every 5,000 or 6,000 miles I would buy that vehicle before I would purchase on with 10,000 mile oil change intervals. My Honda is very easy to use a MityVac drain and fill and I change it every 5000 miles or a little longer and skip the filter. Everyone has different options and methods and people won't change very easily.
 
That presupposes that every engine on here is either:

- easy on oil to begin with
- ran through easy intervals (i.e. minimal idling, thorough drive, no short trips, etc.)
- used in a strictly passenger capacity
- stock and not modified

Many of these could just simply be put under the "normal" vs "severe" interval.

In my opinion, when asked the "why not go longer" question. It is simply this... and I think many on here would share the same sentiments -- I had the opportunity to service the vehicle and I was at an appropriate interval that of which met my particular "minimum" mileage or duration for that required service.

While I don't ever plan to have things go awry and life get crazy. You never know. I like to be comfortable with my service intervals where they can potentially go the long haul if need be. If something came up and I had to make an unexpected trip to family, do I want to be stopping at Uncle Ron's Hot Dog garage and tire center for an oil change... no. Nor do I want to think that I need to service the truck before I leave on an impromptu trip.

To sum it up, for me, its about being prepared.
 
The best oil filters pull out like 50% of 10um particles. There are lots of industrial studies showing significant wear with lubricants full of particles down to a micron. I do short OCI because I dump all those particles in the drain pain. I presume the oil itself is still quite good.

As for brand, different engines seem to like / consume less with different brands. So there is that on the brand side. Everyone has their favorite, likely based on their personal experience, which means its correct for them but maybe not for you?
 
I agree with OP. I see it on the Hyundai forums. Now I'm new here, but even on YT, TT and FB theres people saying "oil is cheap, engines are not, I run Full Synthetic and change every 3k" like bro c'mon. That just seems excessive. I'm not far off myself, changing at every 4k miles, but that's my normal OCI cut in half because my driving style apparently necessitates a "severe service" OCI, per the manual and guidance from sid forum users.

but best believe, I would go longer if I could. But when you have an engine (Theta II) that is as notorious as mine for seizures/failure, oil consumption, carbon deposits, and dilution, among other things.
 
I agree with OP. I see it on the Hyundai forums. Now I'm new here, but even on YT, TT and FB theres people saying "oil is cheap, engines are not, I run Full Synthetic and change every 3k" like bro c'mon. That just seems excessive. I'm not far off myself, changing at every 4k miles, but that's my normal OCI cut in half because my driving style apparently necessitates a "severe service" OCI, per the manual and guidance from sid forum users.

but best believe, I would go longer if I could. But when you have an engine (Theta II) that is as notorious as mine for seizures/failure, oil consumption, carbon deposits, and dilution, among other things.
I was considering a car from Kia but it’s pretty clear the engines in H/K right now are a gamble. I just saw somewhere someone sent in oil for analysis, results came back ‘all good’ and the engine crapped itself a few weeks later. No thanks on that.

I just want to find the sweet spot. I’m fine spending the money, I’m not fine throwing it away. I only need to change my oil twice a year so this is like a $3/month question, but still. You’re changing every 4K, wouldn’t you like to know if $15 Kirkland is fine instead of $30 whatever? Wouldn’t you like to know if you could actually go longer?

Just seems like the ‘facts’ (oil analysis) seem to generally indicate the a lot people sending oil in are changing too soon.

The type of people on a forum like this (and people who send oil in) are likely to be the preemptive maintenance ‘better early than late’ crowd. I’m part of it too, I just want to hit the common sense/value intersection. Ya know?
 
I was considering a car from Kia but it’s pretty clear the engines in H/K right now are a gamble. I just saw somewhere someone sent in oil for analysis, results came back ‘all good’ and the engine crapped itself a few weeks later. No thanks on that.

I just want to find the sweet spot. I’m fine spending the money, I’m not fine throwing it away. I only need to change my oil twice a year so this is like a $3/month question, but still. You’re changing every 4K, wouldn’t you like to know if $15 Kirkland is fine instead of $30 whatever? Wouldn’t you like to know if you could actually go longer?

Just seems like the ‘facts’ (oil analysis) seem to generally indicate the a lot people sending oil in are changing too soon.

The type of people on a forum like this (and people who send oil in) are likely to be the preemptive maintenance ‘better early than late’ crowd. I’m part of it too, I just want to hit the common sense/value intersection. Ya know?
I was fully prepared to go longer. I tried Amsoil SS and was disappointed. My car drank it up at a qt/1000 miles. There's no justification to use an oil as expensive as Asmoil, when the car is consuming it that fast.

I wanted it to work. I wanted to change my oil once a year finally. Much as I love working on my car and believe in preventative maintenance too. But that's why I'm doing what I do to get the consumption down to something more manageable.
 
I was fully prepared to go longer. I tried Amsoil SS and was disappointed. My car drank it up at a qt/1000 miles. There's no justification to use an oil as expensive as Asmoil, when the car is consuming it that fast.

I wanted it to work. I wanted to change my oil once a year finally. Much as I love working on my car and believe in preventative maintenance too. But that's why I'm doing what I do to get the consumption down to something more manageable.
Sounds to me like a fresh quart every 1000 miles? You could go YEARS between changes with that refresh schedule! ;)
 
Here is what I would like to see. A top 24 hour Le Mans team stop on the way to the track at a department type store like Walmart, (or whatever they have over there), on race day, and pick up a case of whatever oil they have on sale in a similar weight.

Fill the crankcase or tank of their race car with it, and go. And see if it's still running at the finish. Or else drain the oil out of every car at the Daytona 500, and fill it with whatever 10W-40 synthetic is the cheapest.

And run the race. And see if the same average number of cars finish. (Blown motors are becoming much more rare in NASCAR then they were 50 years ago). My guess is there wouldn't be much, if any difference.
 
Nascar engines hold 16 quarts and the oil has a significant cooling component - not to mention it is only used for a few hours. Not saying it wouldn't be interesting, however I am not sure how informative it would be?
 
Dreamliner,

There are several methods to choosing an oil brand, and the OCI:
- OEM recommendations
- recommendations from others who have similar equipment and experiences to yours
- simple wild guessing
- data driven decisions
Pick the one that best fits your comfort level.


I have over 35k UOAs in my database; probably more, but I've quit counting. I can tell you that oil brand/grade matter little, if at all, when the OCI durations are low to moderate in duration. As long as the oil meets/exceeds the OE specs, everything will be fine. And if there's a problem which develops, it's unlikely to be the fault of the lube; more likely a design or manufacturing flaw. Conversely, if you intend to greatly extend your OCIs, then I'm going to say the brand does matter greatly; premium products protect better at much longer OCI distances (out past 15k miles).
 
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