BMW oil change with 20% non-certified synthetic 0w-20

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2025 B48 330i. Calls for BMW LL 17FE+. Doing my second oil change @ 5k miles (after early break-in change).

It calls for 5.25L. I goofed up and only had 4L left of the Liqui Moly 6600, and had to use the Kirkland Signature 0W-20 for the remaining 1.25L. Is this a mandatory re-do once I get the correct oil?
 
As long as you don’t extend the interval on a blend of oil brands and types, likely no harm in the short term.

Treat the blend as requiring severe service maintenance schedule.

Just my .02
 
Engines don't explode because you used the wrong oil. Even if you use only Kirkland 0W20, the engine will be fine. The problem is long-term damage using oil like this in an engine as sophisticated as that, running as hot as B48 does.
Your combo will be fine, but I would not run it longer than 5k bcs, potential foaming etc.
 
Even if you use only Kirkland 0W20, the engine will be fine. The problem is long-term damage using oil like this in an engine as sophisticated as that, running as hot as B48 does.

Thanks for the replies. Could you help me understand what the theoretical difference is between the long-term protection provided by an oil like the Kirkland 0W20 vs. Liqui Moly 0W20 in a B48? What is different in their formulation or performance?
 
Thanks for the replies. Could you help me understand what the theoretical difference is between the long-term protection provided by an oil like the Kirkland 0W20 vs. Liqui Moly 0W20 in a B48? What is different in their formulation or performance?
What does your manual say. I think it's going to say that you can use ll-01fe as well. I remember someone posted about how their BMW called for ll-17fe but allowed for ll-01fe.
 
Thanks for the replies. Could you help me understand what the theoretical difference is between the long-term protection provided by an oil like the Kirkland 0W20 vs. Liqui Moly 0W20 in a B48? What is different in their formulation or performance?
Liqui moly will have lower deposits, lower evaporation loss (Noack), lower oxidation, higher shear stability.
Personally, I would run LL04 or LL01 if you are out of warranty.
 
It will be fine at your 5000 interval, are you still doing the free services every 10,000? If so, this will not cause any warranty issues either since they won't know you did extra changes.

5000 is fine on that oil, it's a good oil. The TBN will be much higher on the Euro oils, to help you go the 10,000 changes amongst other differences here or there.

You don't need to worry at all, if this is coming out in 5000 miles. Even if the entire sump was the Kirkland, you'd be fine for 5000 miles.
 
What does your manual say. I think it's going to say that you can use ll-01fe as well. I remember someone posted about how their BMW called for ll-17fe but allowed for ll-01fe.
I actually checked the manual and it calls for non of the above... oops.

This seems to only be available in 0W-12 as a BMW branded oil.

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Engines don't explode because you used the wrong oil. Even if you use only Kirkland 0W20, the engine will be fine. The problem is long-term damage using oil like this in an engine as sophisticated as that, running as hot as B48 does.
Your combo will be fine, but I would not run it longer than 5k bcs, potential foaming etc.
not true. If the oil you use is wrong enough, the engine will explode
 
I actually checked the manual and it calls for non of the above... oops.

This seems to only be available in 0W-12 as a BMW branded oil.

View attachment 267630
Doesn't matter if it only states 0w-12, you can use 0w-30. It's all cafe baloney. Yeah I know the x7 linked has the b58 instead of the b48. No it doesn't matter in regards to oil, same architecture just a two cylinder difference.

 
Liqui moly will have lower deposits, lower evaporation loss (Noack), lower oxidation, higher shear stability.
Personally, I would run LL04 or LL01 if you are out of warranty.
To this I point to Quaker State Euro (LL01 with many other approvals).
 
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