attention cheap oil users
- Thread starter 93cruiser
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I switched from FS to Syn Blend because QS-HM has an impressive additive package and I can still run it 5-6k miles.
When I'll get my UOA on it, I bet wear numbers won't be much different than M1 or any other FS.
Better is subjective. Also, why don't you just buy Amsoil then?
When I'll get my UOA on it, I bet wear numbers won't be much different than M1 or any other FS.
Better is subjective. Also, why don't you just buy Amsoil then?
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You can always judge a book by its cover. The General Motors dealers are dumping AC Delco full synthetic, into all vehicles when completing scheduled service. The AC Delco oil, is made by Exxon Mobil. But let's face it ACDelco is not a big name oil. Does that mean they're putting cheap oil in the vehicles they sell and service?
I’ll take the Amalie oil company Wolfs Head synthetic oil that is rebottled and sold in my area as SuperTech Synthetic oil, for the $8 price savings.
SuperTech IS major oil company oil, rebottled and sold as a store brand. Basically, it meets spec, it’s good stuff, and your car will not know the difference.
SuperTech IS major oil company oil, rebottled and sold as a store brand. Basically, it meets spec, it’s good stuff, and your car will not know the difference.
Originally Posted By: 93cruiser
... Example, walmart supertech synthetic 5qt, 15.68.
Mobil 1 sythetic 5qt, 23.97
Price difference =8.29, or 1.65 a quart
... Why would you just not buy better oil? ...
What makes you so sure SuperTech is isn't the "better oil"? From viewing Mobil's advertisements, on which they spend the difference in price?
... Example, walmart supertech synthetic 5qt, 15.68.
Mobil 1 sythetic 5qt, 23.97
Price difference =8.29, or 1.65 a quart
... Why would you just not buy better oil? ...
What makes you so sure SuperTech is isn't the "better oil"? From viewing Mobil's advertisements, on which they spend the difference in price?
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Originally Posted By: hatt
Store brand oil is too high. I buy big name brands on sale, clearance, and/or with a nice rebate.
Lots of people buy oil by the price they see on the shelf....
I think 96+% of the oil buying population doesn't consider rebates or clearances when making oil purchases... sad, but true.
Store brand oil is too high. I buy big name brands on sale, clearance, and/or with a nice rebate.
Lots of people buy oil by the price they see on the shelf....
I think 96+% of the oil buying population doesn't consider rebates or clearances when making oil purchases... sad, but true.
Formula shell$10 for 5 quarts at home Depot meets my specs. I'm over syn oil.
I'm convinced. I really need to unload 40 plus gallons of CJ-4 rated syn blend 15w40 because I bought it at 1.35 a gallon.
I probably should just recycle the Delo 15w30 I snagged at 3.00 a gallon as well.
If I buy the promotional 2 pack of Rotella 5w40 for 49.99, I get a free camo Rotella hat. 25.00 a gallon.
Or maybe I'll get Amsoil or Redline, they are (even) more expensive, so it's got to be better....
After a long time here on BITOG, and trying dozens of oils, VOA and UOA comparisons, reading a bazillion posts with others data and comments, I've gleaned it to a few simple rules for myself.
If it meets the specs, it's OK to run.
A narrow spread usually (with few exceptions) shears less and holds up better.
The difference between synthetic and conventional is nil under normal use.
Extreme circumstances like temp, or extended drain, syn gets the nod.
If it meets the spec, and is cheap, it's in my cart, and in my sump. Ain't nuttin' blowed up yet Goober.
I probably should just recycle the Delo 15w30 I snagged at 3.00 a gallon as well.
If I buy the promotional 2 pack of Rotella 5w40 for 49.99, I get a free camo Rotella hat. 25.00 a gallon.
Or maybe I'll get Amsoil or Redline, they are (even) more expensive, so it's got to be better....
After a long time here on BITOG, and trying dozens of oils, VOA and UOA comparisons, reading a bazillion posts with others data and comments, I've gleaned it to a few simple rules for myself.
If it meets the specs, it's OK to run.
A narrow spread usually (with few exceptions) shears less and holds up better.
The difference between synthetic and conventional is nil under normal use.
Extreme circumstances like temp, or extended drain, syn gets the nod.
If it meets the spec, and is cheap, it's in my cart, and in my sump. Ain't nuttin' blowed up yet Goober.
As pointed out the price difference is minimal. And it depends on what you call cheap oil. I'd use ST all day long without worry of the quality of the product. I'd not buy some off-brand product for a few dollar savings. I also regularly use the majors when I find a good price. I'm willing to pay a few extra dollars to know I'm getting product from a company with a history of quality control. I think the differences between brands that meet the same spec are so small that only nerds on BTOG forums care about them. In your daily driver, it just doesn't matter. Your intervals, keeping on top of all the maintenance items has a much bigger impact on the longevity of your ride.
Mobil 1 was noisy in my 2000 alloy LS1 so I always buy the better oils and save money. Been using cheap oil for 32 years in my turbo and still going.
money is money! if someone is giving some back for a little paperwork, or a few keystrokes i am in!! always got all rebated filed be it $5 or a $100 on a set of tyres from discount tyre. i am retired with time to shop + save. my income is fixed but as grammy always said "a penny saved is a penny earned'!!
Because I can afford to change the oil more often with cheaper oil. You long drain guys might not mind looking a dipstick full of dark dirty oil, but I can't stand it.
Originally Posted By: das_peikko
Because I can afford to change the oil more often with cheaper oil. You long drain guys might not mind looking a dipstick full of dark dirty oil, but I can't stand it.
You remind me of someone else who used to post on here
Because I can afford to change the oil more often with cheaper oil. You long drain guys might not mind looking a dipstick full of dark dirty oil, but I can't stand it.
You remind me of someone else who used to post on here
Originally Posted By: KevinP
I think the differences between brands that meet the same spec are so small that only nerds on BTOG forums care about them. In your daily driver, it just doesn't matter. Your intervals, keeping on top of all the maintenance items has a much bigger impact on the longevity of your ride.
and most people change out their oil WAAAAAAAYYY too soon.....
I think the differences between brands that meet the same spec are so small that only nerds on BTOG forums care about them. In your daily driver, it just doesn't matter. Your intervals, keeping on top of all the maintenance items has a much bigger impact on the longevity of your ride.
and most people change out their oil WAAAAAAAYYY too soon.....
Originally Posted By: das_peikko
You long drain guys might not mind looking a dipstick full of dark dirty oil, but I can't stand it.
Oil color means NOTHING ! ! ! !
No matter how much science and testing proves them wrong.....
there will always be "those people" who think "looking at a dipstick"
is a scientifically viable way to determine the condition of their oil....
W R O N G !!!!
You long drain guys might not mind looking a dipstick full of dark dirty oil, but I can't stand it.
Oil color means NOTHING ! ! ! !
No matter how much science and testing proves them wrong.....
there will always be "those people" who think "looking at a dipstick"
is a scientifically viable way to determine the condition of their oil....
W R O N G !!!!
Originally Posted By: wemay
Originally Posted By: 93cruiser
...if you buy a car to keep it, why use toned down oil for basically no measurable savings?
Conversely, are you saying that store brand oils are not good enough to maintain a car someone wants to keep for a long time? I have yet to see any study bearing this out.
not as good as name brand. we have the oil analysis reports showing the virgin samples. supertech is not as robust as mobil 1. why after spending A LOT of money on something, would you use cheap oil, that as I have shown, is really not that much cheaper over an OCI. sometimes its being penny wise, and pound foolish.
For a 8.29 saving, I think anyone its nuts to run supertech. Those who do, probably run shorter OCIs that with Mobil 1, actually costing them more per mile, and losing money.
How about this, same scenario, but maybe will make more sense. 10k oci's scenario(I would never do 10k on supertech, kudos to those who risk it). 12k average per year for a driver. Works out to 8.3 years to hit 100k. So for every 8.3 years or 100k, you saved a whole 82.90. Thats a savings of .83 cents a month. I will repeat that, a savings of .83 cents a month.
I have not read through all the posts yet, I will after this. Thanks to everyone who responded. I still can not comprehend trying to save .83 cents a month by skimping on something as important as the engines oil. But thats why I started this, discussion is good.
Edit-I never said I ran 5k, I do 10k. My original post used 5k as an example, which is why I said say you run, not I run. Lots of people think i only go 5k, i do 10k. Also, this was a namebrand vs storebrand thing, guess i should have not mentioned mobil 1. Its just what I use and knew the price. Thanks for the opinions.
Originally Posted By: 93cruiser
...if you buy a car to keep it, why use toned down oil for basically no measurable savings?
Conversely, are you saying that store brand oils are not good enough to maintain a car someone wants to keep for a long time? I have yet to see any study bearing this out.
not as good as name brand. we have the oil analysis reports showing the virgin samples. supertech is not as robust as mobil 1. why after spending A LOT of money on something, would you use cheap oil, that as I have shown, is really not that much cheaper over an OCI. sometimes its being penny wise, and pound foolish.
For a 8.29 saving, I think anyone its nuts to run supertech. Those who do, probably run shorter OCIs that with Mobil 1, actually costing them more per mile, and losing money.
How about this, same scenario, but maybe will make more sense. 10k oci's scenario(I would never do 10k on supertech, kudos to those who risk it). 12k average per year for a driver. Works out to 8.3 years to hit 100k. So for every 8.3 years or 100k, you saved a whole 82.90. Thats a savings of .83 cents a month. I will repeat that, a savings of .83 cents a month.
I have not read through all the posts yet, I will after this. Thanks to everyone who responded. I still can not comprehend trying to save .83 cents a month by skimping on something as important as the engines oil. But thats why I started this, discussion is good.
Edit-I never said I ran 5k, I do 10k. My original post used 5k as an example, which is why I said say you run, not I run. Lots of people think i only go 5k, i do 10k. Also, this was a namebrand vs storebrand thing, guess i should have not mentioned mobil 1. Its just what I use and knew the price. Thanks for the opinions.
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Originally Posted By: Linctex
Originally Posted By: KevinP
I think the differences between brands that meet the same spec are so small that only nerds on BTOG forums care about them. In your daily driver, it just doesn't matter. Your intervals, keeping on top of all the maintenance items has a much bigger impact on the longevity of your ride.
and most people change out their oil WAAAAAAAYYY too soon.....
Manufacturer recommended intervals. I'm not interested in playing games either long or short. I ride the OLM right up to 1-2%.
Originally Posted By: KevinP
I think the differences between brands that meet the same spec are so small that only nerds on BTOG forums care about them. In your daily driver, it just doesn't matter. Your intervals, keeping on top of all the maintenance items has a much bigger impact on the longevity of your ride.
and most people change out their oil WAAAAAAAYYY too soon.....
Manufacturer recommended intervals. I'm not interested in playing games either long or short. I ride the OLM right up to 1-2%.
I use "cheap" oil that meets spec. I have not had an engine wear out since my 65 VW bug. I sell my cars privately or scrap them with the engines running fine. The question really isn't why would people use a cheap oil but why would they pay more?
Originally Posted By: 93cruiser
Why would you just not buy better oil? The savings is basically nothing, and works out to pennies a day.
Ah the old "upsell" logic applied to ones' self. To answer the question, "I buy what I need, and modern conventional is a great value when it's on sale". Not to say I wont' buy a higher 'tier' oil, just that I'll have to "need" whatever the higher tier oil offers if I'm going to select it.
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I know it all adds up, but if you buy a car to keep it, why use toned down oil for basically no measurable savings?
Well, they are measurable savings just to be clear (you measured them!). The real elusive part is the "measurable benefits"
So what does the "Mobil 1" (of course the example is M1) offer over the supertech?
Why would you just not buy better oil? The savings is basically nothing, and works out to pennies a day.
Ah the old "upsell" logic applied to ones' self. To answer the question, "I buy what I need, and modern conventional is a great value when it's on sale". Not to say I wont' buy a higher 'tier' oil, just that I'll have to "need" whatever the higher tier oil offers if I'm going to select it.
Quote:
I know it all adds up, but if you buy a car to keep it, why use toned down oil for basically no measurable savings?
Well, they are measurable savings just to be clear (you measured them!). The real elusive part is the "measurable benefits"
So what does the "Mobil 1" (of course the example is M1) offer over the supertech?
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