Asphalt shingle roof

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Start saving, and have the back half of the roof done this fall, and the front half done next fall.
 
Originally Posted By: bepperb
Nobody will want to do 3 tab shingles anymore, the labor is more difficult and the added price of architectural shingles is offset by the reduced labor. I wouldn't paint anything on curling shingles. Is there water getting past them or not?

It's difficult to say what you need, you may need a tear off of old shingles plus new sheathing, maybe you just have one layer they can go right over. Either way you need the ventilation problem solved first.


How are the architectural shingles easier to install? I've done 3 tab and that's pretty easy.
 
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
Originally Posted By: bepperb
Nobody will want to do 3 tab shingles anymore, the labor is more difficult and the added price of architectural shingles is offset by the reduced labor. I wouldn't paint anything on curling shingles. Is there water getting past them or not?

It's difficult to say what you need, you may need a tear off of old shingles plus new sheathing, maybe you just have one layer they can go right over. Either way you need the ventilation problem solved first.


How are the architectural shingles easier to install? I've done 3 tab and that's pretty easy.
They are the same as the regular three tab but have an extra layer on parts of the shingle. So they are harder to cut through. It also takes 4 bundles to a square as compared to 3 for the regular three tabs.
 
Weebl, our prairie climate sure beats up a roof, doesn't it? My asphalt shingles looked rough here after about 12 years, and we finally replaced them when they were about 15 years old. A '25-year' asphalt shingle does not last 25 years here.

Replaced them with fibreglass-based (vs. the 'organic') shingles, and what a difference! Eleven years later they are showing no signs of curling.

We also put down 'ice & water guard', a sticky membrane, in all the valleys and on the first metre or so of the edge of the roof deck, and added five vents (going from three to eight).

If I were to do it again, I'd use ice & water guard over the entire roof.

Even with the increased ventilation, we still get ice dams some winters - I think the only solution will be to insulate the underside of the deck with spray foam.
 
Originally Posted By: Number_35
We also put down 'ice & water guard', a sticky membrane, in all the valleys and on the first metre or so of the edge of the roof deck, and added five vents (going from three to eight).

If I were to do it again, I'd use ice & water guard over the entire roof.

Even with the increased ventilation, we still get ice dams some winters - I think the only solution will be to insulate the underside of the deck with spray foam.

I'm no roofing expert but where ice dams are a problem, a high quality membrane seems to be essential. For some reason, in my case anyway, ice dams didn't seem to be as much of a problem in Edmonton. Perhaps it was the newer construction. Perhaps it was less snow. Maybe just the specific ridge and valley details or even the house's orientation to the prevailing winds. Hard to say why. Anyway, it sure was disappointing to replace the shingles (as in Winnipeg) and then have leaks.

I'd be concerned that spray foam on the underside of the roof would reduce cooling in summer, and that could/would speed up deterioration.
 
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
Originally Posted By: bepperb
Nobody will want to do 3 tab shingles anymore, the labor is more difficult and the added price of architectural shingles is offset by the reduced labor. I wouldn't paint anything on curling shingles. Is there water getting past them or not?

It's difficult to say what you need, you may need a tear off of old shingles plus new sheathing, maybe you just have one layer they can go right over. Either way you need the ventilation problem solved first.


How are the architectural shingles easier to install? I've done 3 tab and that's pretty easy.
They are the same as the regular three tab but have an extra layer on parts of the shingle. So they are harder to cut through. It also takes 4 bundles to a square as compared to 3 for the regular three tabs.


Can you just take the regular, and pour used engine oil over the top...after all, it's Asphalt...
 
Originally Posted By: weebl
Quite a small area, actually. If I had a brush on a long handle, I could reach everything from a step ladder, moving it left or right only a couple of times and be able to get the whole thing. My guess is about 12 feet wide, and sticking ot of the side of the house about 10 feet. This section is completely independent of the main roof, and the other two secondary roofs on the other side of the house.

Didn't realize it was that small. One square = 100 sqr. ft. or 10' x 10'. You can easily hand nail that. No sweat. Ripping off the old shingles wouldn't take long either. You'd be done easily in less than half a day. Use cheap 3T's to match the color or go with a dimensional shingle. No more thinking about it.
 
Originally Posted By: weebl
I have no clue if ridge vents are legal here. I've never noticed them anywhere before, but then they're designed not to be that noticeable, either. Would't work for that section, anyway. It is just a small slope that sticks out from the side of the house. No accessible attic there. Sort of like the roof on the right side of this picture over the garage door, but on my house, this is where the kitchen table and door to the deck is:

careers-home_rs1172x876.png


I do remember when I was a kid, the roofers my dad hired improved the ventilation (wasn't too bad in that house, but wasn't great either) by cutting holes to install this sort of vent.

do-i-need-a-roof-4_ventalation_mushroom-vent.jpg


I imagine one or two of those would solve the issue there. The problem doesn't seem to exist on the other roofs of the house.




I'll double check, but I believe ridge vents are building code in Ontario now.




Originally Posted By: Number_35
Weebl, our prairie climate sure beats up a roof, doesn't it? My asphalt shingles looked rough here after about 12 years, and we finally replaced them when they were about 15 years old. A '25-year' asphalt shingle does not last 25 years here.

Replaced them with fibreglass-based (vs. the 'organic') shingles, and what a difference! Eleven years later they are showing no signs of curling.

We also put down 'ice & water guard', a sticky membrane, in all the valleys and on the first metre or so of the edge of the roof deck, and added five vents (going from three to eight).

If I were to do it again, I'd use ice & water guard over the entire roof.

Even with the increased ventilation, we still get ice dams some winters - I think the only solution will be to insulate the underside of the deck with spray foam.



Don't kid yourself, that's everywhere. ALL the manufacturers have clued in their warranties aren't worth the paper they're written on. My shingles are supposed to be 25 year shingles. They're 12 years old, and they're basically coming up due *in Northern Ontario*.
 
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
Originally Posted By: bepperb
Nobody will want to do 3 tab shingles anymore, the labor is more difficult and the added price of architectural shingles is offset by the reduced labor. I wouldn't paint anything on curling shingles. Is there water getting past them or not?

It's difficult to say what you need, you may need a tear off of old shingles plus new sheathing, maybe you just have one layer they can go right over. Either way you need the ventilation problem solved first.


How are the architectural shingles easier to install? I've done 3 tab and that's pretty easy.
They are the same as the regular three tab but have an extra layer on parts of the shingle. So they are harder to cut through. It also takes 4 bundles to a square as compared to 3 for the regular three tabs.


I think there's some confusion going on here, architectural shingles are more difficult to install than 3 tabs because they have the extra layer that 3 tabs don't. Also it depends on the the architectural shingle, the basic ones which still have a lifetime warranty are also 3 bundles per square, the heavy duty ones which were the original lifetime shingle are heavier and those are 4 bundles per square. Around here, the 3 tabs are supposed to be a 25 year shingle but most get anywhere from 20-25 years out of them. I've seen many architectural shingle jobs over 10 years old that still look like new, whereas it's easy to tell on the 3 tabs that they're half worn after 10 years. The gap between the tabs start to open up as they age.

And yes, you have to read the warranty. Basically GAF's warranty is only 2 years if you do a DIY install. You need to use a company that's certified to install them and you have to use certain items in order to get the full lifetime warranty. Not all companies are certified to give you the full warranty.
 
Won't disagree with Wolf 539 that a ridge vent is a better product. That being said, the the box vent has its place, and in this case would be a lot better than the nothing that is there now.

Lots of box vent only roofs here that work just fine in a similar climate to the OP's. - and on a hip roof is often the only way to get enough ventilation out of the attic...
 
Curling shingles usually due to excess heat inside from bad venting. Need eve vents and the box vents if can, or maybe some power venting.

Rod
 
Originally Posted By: ragtoplvr
Curling shingles usually due to excess heat inside from bad venting. Need eve vents and the box vents if can, or maybe some power venting.

Rod




Whirlybird vent.
smile.gif
 
Always wondered how well ridge vents worked, once they get covered over. Thankfully no issues yet on mine, save an ice dam area which I can easily keep cleared off.
 
Thanks, I think I am tempted to redo this small roof myself with 3 tab, and then redo the whole roof in a couple of years or so, having a roofer come in and replacing it all with architectural. Looks like the rest of the roof has a few more years left, and it would be insane to spend that kind of money now when things are tight.
 
Originally Posted By: weebl
Thanks, I think I am tempted to redo this small roof myself with 3 tab, and then redo the whole roof in a couple of years or so, having a roofer come in and replacing it all with architectural. Looks like the rest of the roof has a few more years left, and it would be insane to spend that kind of money now when things are tight.


Just read the directions and use the right materials. Deck armour is the way to go, you can use Grace ice&water. You also need drip edge and use starter strip roofing shingles. If you're going to replace the whole roof, use architectural shingles now, will last longer and the price difference isn't much.
 
I'm a commercial contractor, all we use is architectural shingles usually GAF HD line. You pay a little more for them but they are a nice shingle. As for underlayment I quit bidding projects with any tar paper or felt, I bid them all with 100% Ice & Water underlayment. I can do a tear off and still be completely water tight the same day without having to risk tarps blowing off and the cost difference is minimal. It also gives you an added layer of protection if a shingle should get damaged or you have an ice dam and water backs up under the shingles.

Venting is the biggest factor in premature roof failure, proper ridge venting and soffit venting is very important with box vents used to supplement areas that don't have enough flow. You can check if you have enough venting yourself, GAF has an online calculator.
https://www.gaf.com/Roofing/Residential/Products/Roof_Vents/Ventilation_Calculator
 
Originally Posted By: ironman_gq
I'm a commercial contractor, all we use is architectural shingles usually GAF HD line. You pay a little more for them but they are a nice shingle. As for underlayment I quit bidding projects with any tar paper or felt, I bid them all with 100% Ice & Water underlayment. I can do a tear off and still be completely water tight the same day without having to risk tarps blowing off and the cost difference is minimal. It also gives you an added layer of protection if a shingle should get damaged or you have an ice dam and water backs up under the shingles.

Venting is the biggest factor in premature roof failure, proper ridge venting and soffit venting is very important with box vents used to supplement areas that don't have enough flow. You can check if you have enough venting yourself, GAF has an online calculator.
https://www.gaf.com/Roofing/Residential/Products/Roof_Vents/Ventilation_Calculator
Could you explain how the ridge venting is suppose to work? Mine seemed to not work very well at all, at times capturing the air blowing over them and pushing hot air out the gable ends.
 
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