87 Monte Carlo SS

[paulo57509]

According to a Monte Carlo SS forum, '87-'88 SS 305's are flat tappet but the block may have come roller-ready; cast in boss, may or may not be drilled and tapped for the roller lifter retainer (spider).

http://www.montecarloss.com/community/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=464031
http://www.montecarloss.com/community/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1036142

Odd that GM would put a roller in '87-xx F-Bodies and not in the G-Bodies.

 

[Patman]

Odd that GM would put a roller in '87-xx F-Bodies and not in the G-Bodies.

GM never really did the Monte SS any favors in that regard though. While the Grand Nationals and the T Types were getting the powerful 3.8 Turbos, GM was giving the Monte SS a much weaker power plant. And the F Bodies also got priority and had more powerful engines than the Monte. I have always felt like GM cheated Monte SS fans. It was a gorgeous car that was saddled with the slowest engine they could possibly use. It should have had the 3.8 Turbo or the TPI L98 350

 

[TomYoung]

GM never really did the Monte SS any favors in that regard though. While the Grand Nationals and the T Types were getting the powerful 3.8 Turbos, GM was giving the Monte SS a much weaker power plant. And the F Bodies also got priority and had more powerful engines than the Monte. I have always felt like GM cheated Monte SS fans. It was a gorgeous car that was saddled with the slowest engine they could possibly use. It should have had the 3.8 Turbo or the TPI L98 350

The 350 would be a great choice for this car. I think it’s easy to romanticize that 3.8 turbo, which delivered power at a reduced weight, but grenaded easily,too.

 

[bbhero]

The 87 Monte Carlo SS literally was my dream car growing up, color didn't matter but only with a grey interior but most in my area have red.

This is back in the glory days when Nascar actually resembled production models that you could walk into any dealership and buy.

View attachment 224202

I actually prefer this one, DW was more my guy.
View attachment 224203

I liked DW too…

I was happy to see him win the 1989 Daytona 500… Though Ken Schrader had the best car that day and led a whole lot of that race. Alan Kulwicki had a flat tire with a couple of laps to go and if not for that he may have well won that race.

But it was good to see DW win the 500.

 

[clinebarger]

I was around during those years, owned a 1985 Trans-Am (equipped with the 305 SBC) and I remember 1987 being the year that Chevy went to roller cams. My car was only two years old, and already obsolete…

GM didn't switch to roller cams on trucks 'til 1996, SBC blocks became roller capable in '87 but not all passenger cars got roller cams for the next few years.

HO Quad 305 & all TPI engines did.

 

[malibuguy79]

My dad uses semi-syn Quaker State 10w40 in his MCSS. I see no need for anything more. His has a bunch of miles (bought it well used) but only sees a few thousand a year.

Actually just had to remind him to change it lol

 

[Brick B-Body]

Do you remember the show called MASK? I actually still have the NASCAR Monte Carlo SS from the show. I was a huge fan of both back in the day.

Are you sure it's not a Thunderbird?
https://www.transformerland.com/wik...ask-series-series-3-vehicles-razorback/38920/

 

[Glenda W.]

When I owned this gen of SBC’s Chevron Supreme 10w-30 was the go to. If I owned one now that meant this much to me, I’d probably run Amsoil Z Rod for the extra protection while driving and in storage.

 

[SR5]

Very nice car. While I agee, almost any modern 30 or 40 grade oil should work fine, I always feel a mixed fleet (diesel and gasoline) heavy duty engine oil (HDEO) suits this older style of engine. Such as Rotella T4 10W30 synblend, or if you live in a warmer climate then the Rotella T4 15W40 synblend.

I was just reading the 2024 Rotella technical data sheets, and the T4 15W40 is API CK-4 and SN. For some reason the T4 10W30 only mentions API CK-4, but this wouldn't bother me, as both state in their Shell data sheets that they are designed for "Hard working diesel and gasoline engines". These oils are much better than anything around back when the car was new.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/rotella-t4-and-t6-are-back-sn-rated.383628/#post-6914403

Here is a link to a VOA of SuperTech 15W40 HDEO full synthetic, it's API CK-4 and SN, and shows 1344 ppm zinc. Much higher than the typical 600 to 800 ppm zinc, in a modern ILSAC rated fuel economy oil.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...-ck-4-sn-full-synthetic-hdeo-voa-w-pc.382561/

Honourable mention should go to the Euro A3/B4 rated 0/5W40 full synthetics like M1, Castrol Edge or Pennzoil Platinum Euro that would have about 1000ppm zinc. Also Castrol Edge 5W30 A3/B4 (not the GF-6 stuff).

Do you need that much zinc? Probably not, but it's very easy to get it anyway, just in case. Buying a modern HDEO or Euro A3/B4 oil will be much cheaper than a boutique hot rod oil.

For coolant, It probably ran a traditional silicate IAT green back then.
I like G-05 for these applications, it's a modern silicate containing hybrid HOAT coolant with no 2-EHA to cause damage to the polymers and plastics. Stuff like dex-cool with 2-EHA may damage your polymers, best to avoid. Flush and replace with G-05, for a similar yet longer lasting coolant.

 

[kevjam79]

Are you sure it's not a Thunderbird?
https://www.transformerland.com/wik...ask-series-series-3-vehicles-razorback/38920/

Maybe so … I always thought it was a MCSS… haha

 

[kevjam79]

Very nice car. While I agee, almost any modern 30 or 40 grade oil should work fine, I always feel a mixed fleet (diesel and gasoline) heavy duty engine oil (HDEO) suits this older style of engine. Such as Rotella T4 10W30 synblend, or if you live in a warmer climate then the Rotella T4 15W40 synblend.

I was just reading the 2024 Rotella technical data sheets, and the T4 15W40 is API CK-4 and SN. For some reason the T4 10W30 only mentions API CK-4, but this wouldn't bother me, as both state in their Shell data sheets that they are designed for "Hard working diesel and gasoline engines". These oils are much better than anything around back when the car was new.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/rotella-t4-and-t6-are-back-sn-rated.383628/#post-6914403

Here is a link to a VOA of SuperTech 15W40 HDEO full synthetic, it's API CK-4 and SN, and shows 1344 ppm zinc. Much higher than the typical 600 to 800 ppm zinc, in a modern ILSAC rated fuel economy oil.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...-ck-4-sn-full-synthetic-hdeo-voa-w-pc.382561/

Honourable mention should go to the Euro A3/B4 rated 0/5W40 full synthetics like M1, Castrol Edge or Pennzoil Platinum Euro that would have about 1000ppm zinc. Also Castrol Edge 5W30 A3/B4 (not the GF-6 stuff).

Do you need that much zinc? Probably not, but it's very easy to get it anyway, just in case. Buying a modern HDEO or Euro A3/B4 oil will be much cheaper than a boutique hot rod oil.

For coolant, It probably ran a traditional silicate IAT green back then.
I like G-05 for these applications, it's a modern silicate containing hybrid HOAT coolant with no 2-EHA to cause damage to the polymers and plastics. Stuff like dex-cool with 2-EHA may damage your polymers, best to avoid. Flush and replace with G-05, for a similar yet longer lasting coolant.

If you were in my spot, what is your go to on the oil side?

Also, what coolant specifically would you recommend?

 

[SR5]

If you were in my spot, what is your go to on the oil side?

Also, what coolant specifically would you recommend?

I don't know your climate or what is in your shops. I'm a long distance from you. But I have always liked Shell Rotella T4 as a modern oil for older cars. Every oil analysis I have seen of Rotella shows good zinc levels, and I like the idea of a modern conventional or semi-synthetic in a car that would have originally used a conventional oil. But I wouldn't argue with someone who selected a different CK-4 HDEO like Delo or Delvac etc., but I'm less sure of their zinc levels.

I live in a hot climate, so I'm a 15W40 sort of guy, I like how the Rotella T4 15W40 is CK-4 and SN rated. In a colder climate then the Rotella 10W30 is probably a better choice. In a very cold climate, then a Rotella T6 5W40 full synthetic, or a Euro A3/B4 synthetic 0/5W40.
Here is a UOA of Rotella T4 10W30, it shows 1200ppm zinc.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/10w30-rotella-t4-8k-mi-2007-duramax-238k-mi.379573/

For coolant I like Zerex G-05, at 50:50 ratio. I believe it's made by Valvoline. Do a full water flush to get rid of the old stuff first. I would flush with demineralised water.

In short I would run Shell Rotella T4 15W40 (or 10W30) oil and Valvoline Zerex G-05 coolant at 50:50 concentration.

 

[Intelligent Molecule]

If that were mine, I'd keep it stone cold original. It's a fine example of one of the nicest designs of the 80's-it would be a shame to alter it in any way.

For the oil, I'd go with Valvoline MaxLife 5w30 blend. More than good enough with no potential downsides.

 

[SR5]

If that were mine, I'd keep it stone cold original. It's a fine example of one of the nicest designs of the 80's-it would be a shame to alter it in any way.

For the oil, I'd go with Valvoline Maxife 5w30 blend. More than good enough with no potential downsides.

Yes, Valvoline MaxLife synblend is a very good oil.

 

[SR5]

BTW interesting 15W40 talk here, with an oil formulator joining in,
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/shell-hx5-15w40-formulation.337178/

It shows the advantages of narrow viscosity grades like 15W40 and 10W30.

 

[Malo83]

The 87 Monte Carlo SS literally was my dream car growing up, color didn't matter but only with a grey interior but most in my area have red.

This is back in the glory days when Nascar actually resembled production models that you could walk into any dealership and buy.

View attachment 224202

I actually prefer this one, DW was more my guy.
View attachment 224203

Those Montes were fast but my favorite driver was Ole' Bill Elliott, had those swirl head valves, Ernie Elliott could build some engines.
https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/162535-bill-elliott’s-1988-ford-thunderbird/

 

[alcyon]

Caroline (Valve-O-Line) Restore and Protect 5W-30

 

[wlk]

I don’t know… I haven’t researched that yet.

My other significant concern is the seals. The only change the car has had outside of fluids over the years are wiper blades and tires. Everything else is original.

If worried about the seals run Maxlife, QS Allmileage, or Castrol GTX HM any 5/10w30 or 40 would be fine.