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Just take a page out of this genius's playbook.Those people should be sworn at instead of listened to
5w-30 for new Honda 3.5L v6
- Thread starter rbk777
- Start date
Sticking to facts and physics is always a good idea.
I know one thing I am not smarter than the engineers that designed the engine so I am not going to second guess them,
- Joined
- Oct 21, 2015
- Messages
- 233
Thickness runs deep in this crowd, that's a tall ask
Sure you can run a thicker oil and you'll be fine. I can run the specced oil, and be fine too. Both parties can be right, without resorting to "a thicker oil will ruin your engine" or "a factory spec oil will ruin your engine" BS
The same engineers that designed the VCM and $1k dollar engine mounts?
The same engineers that specify different oil viscosities when they're "allowed" to ? You can keep your blinders on all you want but stop spreading inaccurate information. Use 0W-20. Tell others to use 0W-20. Just don't use scare tactics of gloom and doom.
Yet you posted selective text from the manual arguing that you should only use 0W-20....
In my first post, I recommended Castrol. My son used Pennzoil 5W-30 in his 3.5L Honda. Go to Walmart, pick any name-brand 5W-30 on their shelf, including SuperTech, and run it. It will be 100% fine.
rbk,
I would use Valvoline Extended Protection 5w-30 in your ride. At an OCI of 5k you should be fine re: intake valve deposits and the VCM.
SammyChevelleTypeS3
$50 site donor 2023
My thoughts also. I have never considered or used oil grade that was not recommended....... UNTIL we ended up with the
GDI-T in wife's car. Since warranty is about up I been using 5w30 instead of the 0w20. I snagged several $28 jugs of
Castrol Edge Euro Car so been using that. Can detect zero change in the car mpg or anything since.
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Honda's powertrain is 3 years/36k miles. I wouldn't sweat about losing that warranty because of using a 5W-30 engine oil or using a VCM muffler. That warranty will be up before you know it.
To the OP, use any 5W-30 you want. As you can see in my sig, I'm using HPL's 5W-30 in my J35, but any off-the-shelf 5W-30 would be good.
To the OP, use any 5W-30 you want. As you can see in my sig, I'm using HPL's 5W-30 in my J35, but any off-the-shelf 5W-30 would be good.
I don't really see a need to, considering a J35 made almost a million miles on whatever cheap 5w-20 until a valve chipped, which isn't an oil issue anyway.
What does my signature say. Even in the Texas heat. I’m not sure if VCM exists in the new 3.5L. I would be more worried if it has VCM than the oil. Disable it if it has it.
Unless something changed dramatically with the DOHC setup on the new J35s, the hydraulic belt tensioner on SOHC J35s does not use engine oil pressure. It's spring loaded and filled with its own oil to dampen it, but has no connection to the engine oil. I assumed it did too until I did the timing belt on mine and discovered that it just bolts onto the engine and there's no oil port.
I ran 5W-30 in my CR-V's K24 for years, even though it called for 5W-20. Result? Nothing significant. Maybe a little quieter. I kept track of mileage per tank for a year with 5W-20 before switching to 5W-30 and I can say the mileage had too much variation to say mileage was any better with 5W-20. In fact, the average with 5W-30 was actually slightly higher, and I had my best-ever one tank mileage of 32 MPG with 5W-30, which I never saw with 5W-20. Too many variables coming into play.
OP, I'm sure the new J35 would be just fine with 5W-30. That said, my Pilot has had 0W-20 since it was new, and at 120,000 miles now, has had zero problems and zero oil consumption, even before I added an S-VCM controller at 100,000. Not having the VCM shudder is nice though, your motor mounts will thank you, and you probably won't even notice the the slight loss of MPG. The question of VCM disablers and warranties comes up frequently on Honda forums, and the consensus is if you're really concerned, they are easily removed if you had to take it in for a warranty repair, but you'll most likely not have any issues.
I think that a more pertinent question is "what does the manufacturer recommend in Louisiana.
Why ? Do they use different engines ?
Look at the screenshots from Honda's own owners manual. They put a "*" next to the 0W-20 text and refer to improved fuel economy.
It looks to me like that vehicle is not even sold in Australia.
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