I drive about 8000 a year.
Thus far my avg fuel consumption in my usage is about 26mpg, so my 200x-oil-pan-capacity RoT would put me right around 6500 for an ODI on average.
I was thinking 5k ODI with samples until I can get a baseline.
HPL SuperCar 5w-40 for 2.0T Honda
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Thus far my avg fuel consumption in my usage is about 26mpg, so my 200x-oil-pan-capacity RoT would put me right around 6500 for an ODI on average.
I was thinking 5k ODI with samples until I can get a baseline.
Fair question. In my usage I could probably use it quite successfully. That viscosity typically makes me think of M1 and I'm not up to speed on their latest variants. Back when I ran M1 it was the tri-syn formula. Man, I miss those days.
I don't see $100 a year as anything but a rounding error when I spending that much every other week on fuel, insurance, etc.
Heck, even TIRES cost several times more than that on a yearly basis. To me, cheap oil and filters is false economy.
This is why I buy expensive oil and filters even for my old 2005 Odyssey that we still drive every day. Because a big part of why I can still drive that old van is the "expensive" oil and filters. 16 years of paid-for service and counting.
I only drive paid-for vehicles. I can't afford cheaper oil or filters.
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I suppose I've commingled two separate questions-- whether to run 5w40 and whether that 5w40 should be HPL.
The first question is my primary question. If I run HPL it will be because I can afford to and wish to, not because I need to per se.
I expect a modern Honda engine to go 500k plus miles on premium oils with proper care.
Thank you for the reply, I'd love to see the results.
Triple_Se7en
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You certainly have-a-way with words.
Very well said! Articulate and to the point!
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Another point you havent mentioned: is warranty a concern? Because if so, having a 5w40 boutique oil will almost certainly raise some flags on the rare instance you may need work done.
Otherwise, if you don't mind the extra pricing, then go for it. Or go to 10w30 to have even reduced shearing since it'll have lower VII
Otherwise, if you don't mind the extra pricing, then go for it. Or go to 10w30 to have even reduced shearing since it'll have lower VII
The Mobil 1 Tri Syn formula was the last of the “true synthetic” days for otc oils. That was a great oil and one of my favorites! As @OVERKILL has told me, HPL was created with the help of Dr Rudnick, one of the M1 Try Syn developers!
Kendall Nitro 70 is a solid summer option
Pump gas won’t be available in half that time unless we apply the pointy end of the boot to folks who’re too darn big for their britches & unwilling to submit themselves & their kin to the same conditions they expect others to suffer under.42.5 years to go
Define “expensive” oil for your 2005 Ody…. Unless your oil change cost exceeds $10/1k miles it’s not even approaching mid-range. Please list your oil, filter, and change interval to evaluate cost per 1k.
Dealer oil. As long as I can get on my back I can pour in liquid gold.
I don't think I need to define expensive when you just did. I probably should have put the "expensive" in air quotes. The last 18 years have primarily been M1 (whatever variety was "Best" at WMT in my preferred viscosity), PP or PUP with an M1-110 filter. Changed when OLM hit 15%.Define “expensive” oil for your 2005 Ody…. Unless your oil change cost exceeds $10/1k miles it’s not even approaching mid-range. Please list your oil, filter, and change interval to evaluate cost per 1k.
On the one hand, the old J35 still at its ripe old age still never needs an oil top off between changes. Never even once. That was even before I disabled the VCM.
On the other hand, the inside is HEAVILY varnished and the recent switch to VRP has resulting in tangible increases in throttle response, MPG, and in cleanliness. I can actually see the VRP removing the varnish left behind over the years.
And I think you agree with my main point: even if I used oils and filters that cost double or triple what I use, it's still just background noise in the overall cost of ownership and of life in general.
It's good to have goals.42.5 years to go
This is interesting-- the Honda manual for older K20As sold abroad shows 5w-40 for an engine that was 5w-20 in the USA.
The newer K20C IMO is probably good to go on 5w-40 SuperCar/Euro. And being TGDI where these older engines were PFI and non-turbo, I think the higher viscosity is even more justified.
The newer K20C IMO is probably good to go on 5w-40 SuperCar/Euro. And being TGDI where these older engines were PFI and non-turbo, I think the higher viscosity is even more justified.
I just posted my HPL PCMO 5w40 UOA from my Civic earlier. Not sure if the two correlate, but the report came back fine for a car that recommends 5w20. I've ran a 40 grade in it for the last 20k miles, & just recently put in HPL 0w30 Supercar this last oci. I've only seen a +2 mpg increase since I switched to a 30 grade, roughly 600 miles ago.
Sorry to bump, but I think it’s warranted.
I’ve recently acquired an OBD-Link MX+ and was able to glean some insight into the car’s coolant temps, which stubbornly resist rising above 175F, with 172F being the steady state indicated temp on the hwy.
Keep in mind, that’s with a “wet exhaust manifold” design that would put much more exhaust heat into the coolant
I also recently came across a technical promotion video Honda did for the 2018 Accord with this engine, and it specifically highlight how they had paid attention to effective engine cooling.
Anecdotally, the engine runs cool. I come home from work and the lack of heat radiating off the car is pretty remarkable. With the insight of the actual OBD data, I now have evidence to back up the anecdote.
Finally, the teardown video circulating from “I do Cars” showing the incredibly clean inside of the 94k mile example of the engine also suggests that the engine runs cool enough to prevent major deposit issues, although we do not know what oil was used in that torn down engine, it seems unlikely it was HPL or VRP.
All that said, I think that a 5w40 would be unwarranted here because of the lower operating temps. I hope to get an oil pressure and temp gauge setup at some point. But oil temps generally run about 30F hotter than coolant temps, so if I’m sitting at 200F-210F oil temps, then stepping up to 30 grade no VII HPL seems like it would be sufficient a HTHS increase.
It also has me thinking that a thicker 20 grade at temp in this engine is likely more real world viscosity than a lighter 30 grade might be in another engine.
So, to cap this thread’s OP question: the lower temps suggest a 40 grade is unwarranted for daily use (thought potentially still acceptable). A good quality 30 grade should be quite sufficient.
I don't know of any older K-series engines pre ca;2010 outside US that specs 20visc. But I could be wrong.
That said with turbo, temps close to piston and in the turbo is what you should be concerned about, not sump temp. IMO.
That said with turbo, temps close to piston and in the turbo is what you should be concerned about, not sump temp. IMO.
No way I'm running a 40 weight oil on an engine recommending 20. 5W/0W-30 maybe. If you are worried about fuel dilution, change the oil at 6 month intervals. If you don't like getting under the car, buy an oil extractor. With changes at 5k or earlier, any API SN/SP oil is fine, even SuperTech/Kirkland. Out with the old, and in with the new, and profit.
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