2024 Toyota Land Cruiser Oil Spec, Interesting...
- Thread starter wings&wheels
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A proper owner’s manual! For those of us that have been in the game for a while like to see a viscosity/temp chart. Use to also see standard vs severe service.
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You think so?
Not that surprising.
My 2016 says the same exact thing.
I suspect that they all do.
You can see that I’ve started consolidating oil types across the fleet, including the Tundra.
I disagree. It is more about manual recommendations and CAFE and the fact that in other countries, the same vehicle are approved for a thicker viscosity.
@Kalle.J
@JavierH19
@Astro14
Are all on the right track in my uneducated, and unqualified opinion.
The 3URFE engine for example is recommended in other coutries to run 15w40 and 20w50, above a certain ambient temp, while here in the USA, 5w20 is max viscosity.
@kschachn .......do you think that there is a correlation or causation in this difference, that might be due to fuel quality/additives that are present in the other countries and not present here in the USA? Honest question, as you are the king of search engine operation.
As I noted.
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My concerns may not be justified but I fret over a 4Turbo working in such a heavy vehicle. I don't choose 20wt but agree 20wt has been proven to be a stout oil. I do lean 30wt when reasonable and it sure seems a-ok in this application.
Enjoy your Land Cruiser. GREAT vehicle!
Enjoy your Land Cruiser. GREAT vehicle!
I edited #25, please re read.
Thanks for that valuable and well thought out, excellent explanation !
5W-30 would be optimal.
Thanks to the folks posting the RoW manuals. I had planned on doing the research at some point, but had only received the vehicle yesterday afternoon.
Regarding the thick v thin debate, this is not that. I posted the manual excerpt as this is the first time that I have seen a somewhat open ended allowance for a heavier grade in a modern vehicle. Although, I will admit to a youth misspent around various leaky European cars and m/c's has put me on the thicker side...
Regarding the open ended allowance; in my line of work, I'd jokingly call these 'weasel words', "...well, the regs state that, but I've known others to do this and it has worked out well for them...but I can't bless it you understand...please keep me out of the loop going forward....oh, and no emails"
Regarding the thick v thin debate, this is not that. I posted the manual excerpt as this is the first time that I have seen a somewhat open ended allowance for a heavier grade in a modern vehicle. Although, I will admit to a youth misspent around various leaky European cars and m/c's has put me on the thicker side...
Regarding the open ended allowance; in my line of work, I'd jokingly call these 'weasel words', "...well, the regs state that, but I've known others to do this and it has worked out well for them...but I can't bless it you understand...please keep me out of the loop going forward....oh, and no emails"
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And nobody wants to ask why this vehicle doesn’t spec the 0w16 or 0w8 oil viscosity? 
Over the years it was always flow=lubrication. So Toyota doesn’t want better lubrication in this case I guess.
Over the years it was always flow=lubrication. So Toyota doesn’t want better lubrication in this case I guess.
Flow never lubricated an engine.And nobody wants to ask why this vehicle doesn’t spec the 0w16 or 0w8 oil viscosity?
Over the years it was always flow=lubrication. So Toyota doesn’t want better lubrication in this case I guess.
My guess is that because your vehicle is the hybrid variant the engine itself isn't often running at idle. Doesn't the hybrid system engage the crank to build oil pressure before it fires off?
I don’t visit the oil section often, but if most people understand this now, that’s good to see.
Flow=lubrication was definitely a popular concept for a long time in the past.
Most engines do not have an oil pressure sensor like that, only a switch. Even my Tiguan with a variable pressure pump only has a "high/low" switch.
Which according to the OBD logs is starting to fail and defaulting the pump to high mode.
Engineers determine the minimum viscosity that allows the proper film thickness to keep parts separated. Viscosity first, then additives. But it gets more complicated than that. Both play a crucial role. In theory you could have a well formulated high additized 0w20 that outperforms an average to below average 5w30 grade. You also have to consider engine design, conditions, climate, CAFE, ....whether your "grade" is on the low end or high end of the grade range etc. The general guideline is fine. Use the grade called for in your manual, but going up a grade is ok too within reason. You eventually reach a point where there are diminishing returns, or no returns at all and it's working against the ideal viscosity for the engine.
I could never find it and I'm not sure how it holds up today, but about 20 some years ago I read an article (on here) that showed a GM engineer stating that viscosity isn't that important. Obviously, it is, but his point was most engines could run on a wide range of viscosities and that's exactly what we see in global owner's manuals.
I could never find it and I'm not sure how it holds up today, but about 20 some years ago I read an article (on here) that showed a GM engineer stating that viscosity isn't that important. Obviously, it is, but his point was most engines could run on a wide range of viscosities and that's exactly what we see in global owner's manuals.
Good question and I will research. I will say that the on/off is tolerable, much more so than others I have experienced. What is interesting is the 'engine braking' on coasting which I assume is regenerative braking. The owner's manual is 650+ pages...not thru it yet by a long shot.
I know you didn't really ask, but I'd use Mobil 1 ESP 0w-30 in that vehicle regardless of whether you're driving across the outback or just using it "normally" here in the US.
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