L84 5.3 DFM GM Oil Choices

[Nuclear_42]

With all the recent threads about oil consumption of L83/ L84 engines and other issues I'm rethinking my future oil changes. My ride is 2024 Sierra 1500 5.3 with 10k miles roughly. Currently it's running old logo Castrol Edge EP 0w-20 with Fram FE. I really like the oil's spec. More like a Euro 0w-20 with a Dexos Gen3 rating. I'm not too worried about a lifter failing from a design standpoint. However I am interested in engine cleanliness and wear. The MB 229.71 is quite nice. Back to the oil consumption concerns. Several members have mentioned maintaining GM gas v8 fleets with 30 or 40 grade oils with great success as far as oil consumption. From what I've read online and a co-workers truck most owners report the consumption starting around the 60-70k mile range. No idea if it's just actual wear or build up in the rings causing this. No proof but maybe 20 wt oils contribute to this on this specific engine family in GM. Yes there's billions of vehicles running 20wt with zero issues with 200-300k miles that don't burn oil. Not here to debate 20wt itself just the effects of it in GM V8's itself. Honestly I have no idea how I feel about using not OEM Spec oil. I have enough oil from recent bulk purchases to satisfy any proof of receipts with a warranty compliant Dexos for a few years should a warranty issue arise. Well all this 30-40 weight talk got me interested in M1 0w-40 Super Car. Seems like a beefy package meant for more higher end GM V8's. Price ain't too terrible compared to some boutique oil but nonetheless a bit more than the stuff at Walmart shelves. The current Castrol fill seems a bit quieter valvetrain compared to the M1 EP during a few short OCI during break in.



Castrol Edge EP new spec sheet:

 

[slacktide_bitog]

There is 5w30 that is d1g3

There is also PP Euro L 5w30 that is dexos2, which is being replaced by dexosd and primarily meant for diesel engines, but is ok to use in gas engines too.

If you want to try a thicker oil but don't want to jump from 20 to 40, use a 30.

 

[BobsArmory]

I'd just go with a 0w-30 or 5w-30 Dexos Gen3 oil and sleep well. A little thicker than a 20wt but not so thick that you will notice a reduction in MPG.

 

[BrendanC]

for off the shelf-> Valvoline EP HM 5w-30. otherwise HPL PCEO 5w-30.

 

[Nuclear_42]

There is 5w30 that is d1g3

There is also PP Euro L 5w30 that is dexos2, which is being replaced by dexosd and primarily meant for diesel engines, but is ok to use in gas engines too.

If you want to try a thicker oil but don't want to jump from 20 to 40, use a 30.

I just checked the PP Euro L PDS and it's quite impressive. Good value for the cost. I'm not to worried about thick oil. Seems like M1 Super Car 0w-40 is barely a 40 weight at 12.9 cst.

 

[Slick3914]

for off the shelf-> Valvoline EP HM 5w-30. otherwise HPL PCEO 5w-30.

Even for a newer vehicle that does not have leaks? Been thinking about trying Valvoline EPHM in a Jeep Wranglervwith 58,000 miles.

 

[BrendanC]

Even for a newer vehicle that does not have leaks? Been thinking about trying Valvoline EPHM in a Jeep Wranglervwith 58,000 miles.

you can use a HM oil from new. it won’t hurt anything.

 

[Glenda W.]

First let me give credit where credit is due. Nice job taking care of this before it’s a problem!!

First step is definitely going to a 30 grade minimum. The company I retired from had a massive fleet of GM trucks and the fleet manager learned quickly the 20 grade wasn’t cutting it.

For the oil you have a few choices. The Wally option is M1 fs 0w40, M1 5w30 EP, M1 ESP 0w30 or something like Valvoline R&P 5w30 which should keep those rings free. Then there’s the boutique option like HPL or Amsoil SS. These should also keep those pistons clean!!

 

[FoxProTwisty]

I'd put a catch can on it first, see how much it collects in the winter. Then go up to a 30 grade.

 

[BobsArmory]

I'd put a catch can on it first, see how much it collects in the winter. Then go up to a 30 grade.

Be very careful with catch cans especially in cold climates. They can freeze and cause engine damage followed by warranty denial.


3.0 Duramax Warranty BLOCKED - CATCH CAN FAILURE

 

[JavierH19]

I've been running 0/5w-40 in my 6.2 2021 since the 14k mark and i'm still under factory warranty today. Low oil level message has never turned on since. Burns about half of what it did and never have had to add oil again during the interval. The valvetrain is silent at hot idle to where I can hear the gdi pump when I couldn't before. No way I'm running 20 grade ever again. But I wouldn't have an issue running a Euro 30 since they're close enough. My mpg fell by 0.1 maybe 0.2 but that's tank average and there's a lot of margin of error so maybe it's less than 0.1. Definetly no way thicker oil can increase economy only reduce but not by much. I saw an older castrol ep pds showing the 0 and 5w-20 having just 2.6 hths while the 5w-30 had 2.9 so pretty low. New ones omit that but I doubt they've raised the hths by more than 0.1. And I know there's something about Castrol that makes engines run quiet. I've always had the best experience running Castrol in terms of reducing noise.

 

[Nuclear_42]

First let me give credit where credit is due. Nice job taking care of this before it’s a problem!!

First step is definitely going to a 30 grade minimum. The company I retired from had a massive fleet of GM trucks and the fleet manager learned quickly the 20 grade wasn’t cutting it.

For the oil you have a few choices. The Wally option is M1 fs 0w40, M1 5w30 EP, M1 ESP 0w30 or something like Valvoline R&P 5w30 which should keep those rings free. Then there’s the boutique option like HPL or Amsoil SS. These should also keep those pistons clean!!

Any experience with M1 Super Car? Seems like a very light weight 40 wt with excellent cold pour ratings.

 

[Glenda W.]

Any experience with M1 Super Car? Seems like a very light weight 40 wt with excellent cold pour ratings.

I believe it’s the old fs 0w40 formula with ester per LSJR voa. Should be good stuff

 

[Nuclear_42]

I've been running 0/5w-40 in my 6.2 2021 since the 14k mark and i'm still under factory warranty today. Low oil level message has never turned on since. Burns about half of what it did and never have had to add oil again during the interval. The valvetrain is silent at hot idle to where I can hear the gdi pump when I couldn't before. No way I'm running 20 grade ever again. But I wouldn't have an issue running a Euro 30 since they're close enough. My mpg fell by 0.1 maybe 0.2 but that's tank average and there's a lot of margin of error so maybe it's less than 0.1. Definetly no way thicker oil can increase economy only reduce but not by much. I saw an older castrol ep pds showing the 0 and 5w-20 having just 2.6 hths while the 5w-30 had 2.9 so pretty low. New ones omit that but I doubt they've raised the hths by more than 0.1. And I know there's something about Castrol that makes engines run quiet. I've always had the best experience running Castrol in terms of reducing noise.

So was your truck burning oil the first 14k miles?

 

[JavierH19]

So was your truck burning oil the first 14k miles?

Yes though it didn't burn enough for me to know about it until 12k miles which is when I added two quarts of oil since it triggered the message and it had about 3-4k during that time so a quart every 2k miles or so. I changed it in another 2k miles and went straight to 40 grade and haven't had that happen again. Before then I assumed the engine didn't burn anything because no new engine should burn more than a tenth of a quart per thousand as that's pcv allowance. My 341k 6.0 yukon with all original internals burned only 3/4 of a quart in 5700 miles in the last interval I did on Saturday. And I still haven't bothered to do the pcv valve cover update either, I have never run any engine flush or cleaner of any kind in it, and still did intervals as far as 13-14k miles at worst (with some top up) using whatever cheap conventional diesel oil. The 6.2 still burns but at half or just under what it did with 0w-20 so a big improvement. No way the oil control rings got clogged within the first 12k miles if it got 3 oil changes in that time. Unfortunately the platform won't allow for an LQ to be easily swapped in if the l87 were to blow. I'd love to have an LQ in the escalade. Only "issue" that engine has ever given me is just the exhaust manifold leak and a broken plastic gear in the cheap throttle body but neither of those are the engines fault and only happened after 200k.

 

[Nuclear_42]

Well I changed my mind and ended up buying some Amsoil 0w40. It’s Dexos R rated so it should be more the enough for a simple L84 engine.

 

[Nuclear_42]

UPDATE

I went ahead and changed my oil today. From Castrol Edge EP 0w-20 with 2.8k miles to Amosil SS 0W-40. All I can say WOW! You can barely even hear the engine running unless you open the hood or stick your head in the wheel well. I know a lot of people say it's a phycological illusion. However all the valvetrain squeaking/ clatter is gone even at cold idle. If you own a GM AFM/ DFM V8 you know exactly what I'm talking about. I'm not sure if it's the viscosity or the Amsoil add pack but the oil sure seems tacky/ oily rubbing it on your finger tips compared to the used oil. It's a thick 40 wt but Amsoil says it meets DEXOS R spec. I'm very pleased! Maybe I'll try it next on the 2021 Subaru Outback too.

 

[Patman]

I can definitely believe that you would hear a quieter and smoother engine when going from a 0w20 to a 0w40, that thicker oil will cushion the sound.

It’s when people switch from one brand to the next (or mix oils) and they are identical viscosity, and then claim that it runs quieter and smoother, that’s when I think it’s all in their heads.

 

[redhat]

I tried M1 0W-40 in mine but felt the DFM didn’t function right, so I went back to a 20wt. But I want something more. I have since installed a Range so not too concerned about DFM anymore.

I see M1 ESP 0W-30 has been mentioned a bit. Might try that.

 

[scip5.3L]

UPDATE

I went ahead and changed my oil today. From Castrol Edge EP 0w-20 with 2.8k miles to Amosil SS 0W-40. All I can say WOW! You can barely even hear the engine running unless you open the hood or stick your head in the wheel well. I know a lot of people say it's a phycological illusion. However all the valvetrain squeaking/ clatter is gone even at cold idle. If you own a GM AFM/ DFM V8 you know exactly what I'm talking about. I'm not sure if it's the viscosity or the Amsoil add pack but the oil sure seems tacky/ oily rubbing it on your finger tips compared to the used oil. It's a thick 40 wt but Amsoil says it meets DEXOS R spec. I'm very pleased! Maybe I'll try it next on the 2021 Subaru Outback too.



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Add pack probably has alot to do with it, on my L84 I notice a HUGE difference between 0w-20 M1 the dealer puts in(louder idle) vs 0w-20 Valvoline R&P...the R&P is WAY quieter