2023 Toyota Camry 2.5 oil choice

I'll have to re read that tomorrow. I looked for that statement as it has been posted here before but did not see. Is that for the CAMRY manual or another model?
That's standard lingo in most every O.M. I have read; from varied manufacturers. It is an indirect way of saying that oil was chosen for F.E. not biased towards the upper margin of safe operation - als deutsche technische Ingenieure in the past were inclined to do.

I only bulk up if the engine is saying OUCH! I am very happy to go with a light oil if everything appears copacetic.
I think it has been o.k. a couple times across our vehicles in the past two decades.
 
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Web version of the 2023 manual. If you take it to the track, you might need to bump it up.
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Thanks for posting the entire page and not just an excerpt as some have done in an attempt to defend their 0w-16 position.

I’d add emphasis to two other points on that same page: (bolded text is my edit)

Recommended viscosity: SAE OW-16

SAE OW-16 is the best choice for good fuel economy and good starting in cold weather.”
 
Thanks for posting the entire page and not just an excerpt as some have done in an attempt to defend their 0w-16 position.

I’d add emphasis to two other points on that same page: (bolded text is my edit)

Recommended viscosity: SAE OW-16

SAE OW-16 is the best choice for good fuel economy and good starting in cold weather.”
Well, I included the whole page so gregk could see the page number, and hopefully it would match his paper copy. Just trying to be helpful.

I'm not defending or arguing against his lubricant grade choice, one way or another. I do feel that Toyota has tested the 0W-16 oil in the engines they are recommending its use, and that it meets their wear and durability requirements. Toyota presently has a 6 year / 60,000 mile powertrain warranty, so its best to mindful about what is in the manual in the rare event that something goes wrong.

Now if I purchased a new Crown that was supposed to have 0W-8 in the sump, I'm not sure I could go that low!
 
I'm throw Liquimoly Special Tech AA 0W16 in the mix.

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It does get cold in Florida for 2-3 days a year if you want to benefit from that 0w16

And, every Toyota owner's manual that I've looked at all had the... use this grade if the cap's grade isn't available... and thicker oil for high loads/speeds.... but 'high' isn't defined... hint hint. The highways around here are high speed, and the typical consumer could be a heavy load.

The manual also shows a special/severe service interval of 5000 miles, instead of the 10k. But, over the years, they watered down the requirements.

Nobody is looking out for your engine anymore.
 
It does get cold in Florida for 2-3 days a year if you want to benefit from that 0w16

And, every Toyota owner's manual that I've looked at all had the... use this grade if the cap's grade isn't available... and thicker oil for high loads/speeds.... but 'high' isn't defined... hint hint. The highways around here are high speed, and the typical consumer could be a heavy load.

The manual also shows a special/severe service interval of 5000 miles, instead of the 10k. But, over the years, they watered down the requirements.

Nobody is looking out for your engine anymore.
Toyota of all manufactures isn't going to recommend an oil that is going to prematurely wear out their engines. Technology has evolved. It's possible and proven for thinner oils to protect for many hundreds of thousands of miles. If the car was being tracked then of course I'd be running something thicker, but for a daily driver I'm not worried.
 
What makes you think that daily drivers would not be categorised under severe servicing schedules?

Around here, your typical daily driver is a meth head lead foot in a rush to the next red light and with absolutely zero mechanical sympathy.
 
Toyota of all manufactures isn't going to recommend an oil that is going to prematurely wear out their engines. Technology has evolved. It's possible and proven for thinner oils to protect for many hundreds of thousands of miles. If the car was being tracked then of course I'd be running something thicker, but for a daily driver I'm not worried.
Tell that to the owners out there that had vvt failures, chain/tensioner/guide failures, excessive oil consumption, .....

Like any manufacturer, Toyota isn't going to recommend an oil that is going to cause their warranty expense to be excessive. Beyond that, its all a joke from most automakers. But hey, many enjoy paying thousands for parts replacement.
 
Toyota of all manufactures isn't going to recommend an oil that is going to prematurely wear out their engines. Technology has evolved. It's possible and proven for thinner oils to protect for many hundreds of thousands of miles. If the car was being tracked then of course I'd be running something thicker, but for a daily driver I'm not worried.
Here on BITOG, it's not possible to think this. The thin oil will ruin the engine immediately after warranty expiration. The streets are littered with <10 year old cars that used thin oils. Don't you see them every day? I mean, just ask any shop, that's all they work on...cars that used thin oil with major engine issues now. Get on board man.
 
Tell that to the owners out there that had vvt failures, chain/tensioner/guide failures, excessive oil consumption, .....

Like any manufacturer, Toyota isn't going to recommend an oil that is going to cause their warranty expense to be excessive. Beyond that, its all a joke from most automakers. But hey, many enjoy paying thousands for parts replacement.
These were the 2008-2012 engines and toyota had recalls for it
 
Toyota of all manufactures isn't going to recommend an oil that is going to prematurely wear out their engines. Technology has evolved. It's possible and proven for thinner oils to protect for many hundreds of thousands of miles. If the car was being tracked then of course I'd be running something thicker, but for a daily driver I'm not worried.
Your new 4cyl has the power density of the legendary 1986 5.0 Mustang GT V8 with fuel injection(~200hp) . When (or if) you floor it to pass, its going to 6000+ rpm. And this engine has over 4" stroke!

Interestingly it employs an electric intake VVT but hydraulic exhaust VVT. and uses Port and D.I injectors. The intake manifold has no throttle plate(!) and therefore no appreciable vacuum. And then the A25A-FKS 2.5 D-4S employs that now (in)famous ECM controlled variable pressure oil pump.

As I stated previously, I would put trust in to the factory oil grade choice - unless you start hearing a lot of obtrusive clatter when it gets hot. Then you may wish to start padding some of the 0W16 with M1EP 0W20.

link to article about this engine; I would pay no mind to the comments about predicted reliability -

https://www.motorreviewer.com/engine.php?engine_id=127
 
What makes you think that daily drivers would not be categorised under severe servicing schedules?

Around here, your typical daily driver is a meth head lead foot in a rush to the next red light and with absolutely zero mechanical sympathy.
Now that's what I'm talk'n bout 😂 Same here.
 
Waiting to see how reliable a automobile will turn out is a futile effort these days. CQI which Toyota has been using for decades ensures that changes are made all the time. This is not the 60’s anymore.
 
When I owned a Toyota, I drove a brand new Camry loaner that was using the new at the time 0W20. Car ran fantastic - though I didn't like the car overall as the interior was cramped by the massive center console. When I went in for warranty service again about nine months later (yes toyotas break and fail like everything else) I was provided the exact same loaner. The thing ran terrible. Engine was extremely noisy and the car was low on power and cylinder balance was bad. I said to myself, "what a shame."

I have had only ONE engine last to 90K on a 20 grade oil out of six vehicles. Never seen a 2.5l last on a 20.
Just my small data point to add to the larger bucket.

I would monitor the racket and step up to a no vii HPL or at least a robust 5W20 if you have ANY indication of rod, skirt or T chain racket coming to the fore. No need for 0W. NONE.

@hrv, you know why that oil grade was chosen.
Huh, had a Honda last just under 200k on 0&5w20 and have a Toyota and Subaru over 90k without *knock on wood* engine issues running strictly on 0w20.

I'd say you're unlucky.
 
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