THEY are conspiring against me ... help !Come on Ken....
You never met an engine you didn't blow up...![]()
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THEY are conspiring against me ... help !Come on Ken....
You never met an engine you didn't blow up...![]()
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If people went by owners manual, we wouldn't be here lolI got an idea....Why not use what Toyota recommends in the owners book....They built the car not the people on this site ...Plus you are under a warranty...and dont you get free oil changes for 2 years too???
Hey, you just got here - and it appears you are going by the owners manualIf people went by owners manual, we wouldn't be here lol
Reminds me when Ford for years recommend 5w-20 for most of their vehicles across the line and then through years of seeing the carnage on the HD trucks said uhh let's go 5w-30... That was in the manual too.Hey, you just got here - and it appears you are going by the owners manual![]()
Lmao got me! I'm out here trying to learn about cars and listen in on what others are doingHey, you just got here - and it appears you are going by the owners manual![]()
Reminds me when Ford for years recommend 5w-20 for most of their vehicles across the line and then through years of seeing the carnage on the HD trucks said uhh let's go 5w-30... That was in the manual too.
because it is a Ford....That was likely not the fault of the oil.
because it is a Ford....![]()
And members of the BITOG know more and designed the engine and components?No engine is sensitive like that.
And Car Care Nut doesn’t know what he’s talking about in that video. It’s been posted and discussed here a few times.
It "allows" for 0w20 as a temporary measure, in case 0w-16 isn't available. But it also says to use 0w16 at the next oil change.The difference between 0w16 and 0w20 is negligible. It only matters in cold start emissions, that's why they use it. I put 5w20 Castrol EP in that motor for years, ran great. More important is 5k oil changes. I would supplement toyota care with an extra oil change. The manual "allows" for 0w20.
No, another misunderstanding that just keeps on going. The output of the pump will be just fine.And members of the BITOG know more and designed the engine and components?
The Car Care Nut is correct here. Thicker oil will give an increase the oil pressure (that’s a basic) but the ECU will sense that and reduce the oil pump output.
… but the usual argument is “other markets allows up to 40 weight oil”.
Just like the BMW 0w-12 oil thread. BITOG knows more than BMW
It’s a natural BITOG phase. Join the crowd hating on something until they finally accept it, like Fram’s paper end caps until the Tear-o-laters occurred. But of course, BITOG has been right the whole time. Again the intro of 20-weight oil…. 20 weight oil will cause the engine to grenade. Use 30 or 40 weight oil instead. Now BITOG accepts 20 weight oil
Yes and we should all know by now why the owners manual is worded that way. It has nothing to do with a technical requirement. Zero.It "allows" for 0w20 as a temporary measure, in case 0w-16 isn't available. But it also says to use 0w16 at the next oil change.
Just like in 0w20 applications, it "allows" 5w20 until the next oil change.
TGMO 0w-16 has a stout additive package with a healthy dose of Moly and Boron, that other mainstream oils cannot meet. You have to go into boutique oils to meet the additive package, such as HPL's oil.
I can't even find Kendall GT-1 Max 0W16 on https://www.kendallmotoroils.com/ - their official US distributor website.
I haven’t followed it since he said it, good to know.No engine is sensitive like that.
And Car Care Nut doesn’t know what he’s talking about in that video. It’s been posted and discussed here a few times.
No kidding.Come on Ken....
You never met an engine you didn't blow up...![]()
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Something about your experiences you share just don’t add up.When I owned a Toyota, I drove a brand new Camry loaner that was using the new at the time 0W20. Car ran fantastic - though I didn't like the car overall as the interior was cramped by the massive center console. When I went in for warranty service again about nine months later (yes toyotas break and fail like everything else) I was provided the exact same loaner. The thing ran terrible. Engine was extremely noisy and the car was low on power and cylinder balance was bad. I said to myself, "what a shame."
I have had only ONE engine last to 90K on a 20 grade oil out of six vehicles. Never seen a 2.5l last on a 20.
Just my small data point to add to the larger bucket.
I would monitor the racket and step up to a no vii HPL or at least a robust 5W20 if you have ANY indication of rod, skirt or T chain racket coming to the fore. No need for 0W. NONE.
@hrv, you know why that oil grade was chosen.