2023 Toyota Camry 2.5 oil choice

Wow, a thick vs thin debate on BITOG. Surprising.
Here is what I have not heard yet, that I am wondering about. Has been discussed some on other threads.
Generally speaking, a thicker oil gets hotter, while the thinner oil stays cooler.
So, if you live in south FL in July, but not really running a heavy load, the thinner oil will stay cooler and hold up better.
If you run 0W40, it will get hotter, all other things being equal. Right?
 
Wow, a thick vs thin debate on BITOG. Surprising.
Here is what I have not heard yet, that I am wondering about. Has been discussed some on other threads.
Generally speaking, a thicker oil gets hotter, while the thinner oil stays cooler.
So, if you live in south FL in July, but not really running a heavy load, the thinner oil will stay cooler and hold up better.
If you run 0W40, it will get hotter, all other things being equal. Right?
Thinner oil=less resistance. That is why they are using it to lower mpg. Less resistance=less heat.
But, to actually notice the difference, it has to be a considerable jump in HTHS.
That is ALL things being equal.
I had oils with higher HTHS running a bit cooler on track, and that is here in CO, where cooling the engine is MUCH harder than in South Florida.
 
Huh, had a Honda last just under 200k on 0&5w20 and have a Toyota and Subaru over 90k without *knock on wood* engine issues running strictly on 0w20.

I'd say you're unlucky.
I think that's my wife, she puts a Helmet and fire suit on for her morning commute.

I don't know what luck is; just a fairy tale like a leprechaun?
It's Just data points. We'll add yours in to the hat. No emotions; no fretting or hand wringing.

- Ken
 
Wow, a thick vs thin debate on BITOG. Surprising.
Here is what I have not heard yet, that I am wondering about. Has been discussed some on other threads.
Generally speaking, a thicker oil gets hotter, while the thinner oil stays cooler.
So, if you live in south FL in July, but not really running a heavy load, the thinner oil will stay cooler and hold up better.
If you run 0W40, it will get hotter, all other things being equal. Right?
Any substantially lower viscosity lubricant will be circulated through the engine at a higher volume. Oil is also the "coolant" for the working parts of the engine and transfers heat from pistons to the cylinder walls and also transfers heat away from exhaust port roofs in the heads. Also adding heat to oil (comparatively) is the energy transfer when physically shearing a more viscous lubricant. Heat is removed by the oil but the pan walls and bottom and also other internal block surfaces that are heat sunk by the water jacket . An oil cooler may also be employed.
As far as "holding up" is concerned, a lubricant HTHS is measured at a very high 150 deg C. temp, and that high HTHS product will maintain a greater MOFT compared to an ILSAC spec - a typically mid-low to low HTHS product.

This is a balancing act. Target? No more viscous than is necessary.

- Ken
 
Tell that to the owners out there that had vvt failures, chain/tensioner/guide failures, excessive oil consumption, .....

Like any manufacturer, Toyota isn't going to recommend an oil that is going to cause their warranty expense to be excessive. Beyond that, its all a joke from most automakers. But hey, many enjoy paying thousands for parts replacement.
That would have little to nothing to do with the recommended oil grade.
 
When I owned a Toyota, I drove a brand new Camry loaner that was using the new at the time 0W20. Car ran fantastic - though I didn't like the car overall as the interior was cramped by the massive center console. When I went in for warranty service again about nine months later (yes toyotas break and fail like everything else) I was provided the exact same loaner. The thing ran terrible. Engine was extremely noisy and the car was low on power and cylinder balance was bad. I said to myself, "what a shame."

I have had only ONE engine last to 90K on a 20 grade oil out of six vehicles. Never seen a 2.5l last on a 20.
Just my small data point to add to the larger bucket.

I would monitor the racket and step up to a no vii HPL or at least a robust 5W20 if you have ANY indication of rod, skirt or T chain racket coming to the fore. No need for 0W. NONE.

@hrv, you know why that oil grade was chosen.
My mom's Ford Five Hundred is past 185k and was run mostly on 5w20 conventional oil. And I have clean valve cover pics, too.

 
I got an idea....Why not use what Toyota recommends in the owners book....They built the car not the people on this site ...Plus you are under a warranty...and dont you get free oil changes for 2 years too???
Engineers don’t write the manual, marketing team writes the manual. Marketing is satisfying the government/epa, emissions. They don’t care about the longevity of car.
 
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