I'd like to try the Valvoline R&P but can't get my wallet to agree to $30 / 5 qt oil for multiple oil changes. Repairs on this Taurus has caused a moth to hand me a iou when it flew out of my wallet. If money was no option , everything I service would have HPL products in it.
01Taurus 3.0 Vulcan valvetrain @ 238k miles.
- Thread starter JN94
- Start date
It's going to be the cheapest way by far to reduce or eliminate the varnish.
Seems like it. These engines aren't known for oil issues are they ? This is my first Ford. And what's the recommended oci for this engine ? I've been doing 4- 5k intervals.
I've got a 2000 Taurus with the DOHC. What year is yours? WRT transmission issues the sequential shift AX4S is less reliable on the 4 speed than the nonsequential shift A4XN. All DOHC come with the A4XN and towards the later model years all Taurus came with the A4XN.
The varnish is not an issue.
2001. It has the A4XN.
I know. Just ocd kicking in.
That's the one you want!
The AX4S goes through all the gears sequentially which seem to wear them prematurely. My extended family have had 4 Taurus with AX4S and they all make it about 100k. We got an additional 80k from a rebuild on our 1993 Sable.
With care, the cars are built like tanks. We just changed the front LCA due to bushing failure at 175k. The Vulcan is more reliable and maintenance friendly compared to the DOHC.
I owned a 1991 Ford Ranger with the 3.0 Vulcan engine that had 354K when I sold it for $900. All oil changes were with M1 10-30 at 10K, and the engine remained very clean until it was sold.
Idk if my driving conditions would allow for a 10k oci. And any benefits using 10w30 over 5w30 ?
I doubt it. That was many years ago and 10-30 was a very popular wt. but it worked well for me then.
Not if changing the fluid didn’t affect it.
But the timing covers like to leak, and you’re already there.
Sia electronics out of Tilden Illinois can rebuild the ecu.
Cargo coils from ‘99 back can fix the rear sag.
Rear disc cars use the same proportioning valve, so that’s a bolt on down to the e-brake cable.
But at 6’2” I could never see out of my ‘03.
Those don't usually blow head gaskets. The heads crack instead. I recommend you at least get them crack tested.
The heads are surprisingly fine. The gasket was rotting out. The engine wasn't allowed to overheat. The cooling jackets in the heads and block looked like mud due to rust.
So far it doesn't have issues with sagging. And it's rear drum. So far it doesn't even have as much as a check engine light on while running. Now it might when I put it back together. The transmission did have a slight delay on a cold 1-2 shift but new fluid and filter mostly resolved it.
ST Advanced syn is only $20/jug
Some name brands can go on sale and be even cheaper than that after a rebate
I can usually never find it stock in a 5w30. Only 0w20 and 5w20. Every few months my local Napa has Valvoline SB for $16.50 / 5qt.ST Advanced syn is only $20/jug
Some name brands can go on sale and be even cheaper than that after a rebate
Yeah it's popular
I'm usually lucky enough to find the HM 5w30 syn. If you're really lucky, you can even find HM Advanced syn 5w30!
Haven't seen the hm version of the advanced syn , just the regular. You are referring to the 20k version right ?Yeah it's popular
I'm usually lucky enough to find the HM 5w30 syn. If you're really lucky, you can even find HM Advanced syn 5w30!
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