2007 Ford Fusion 3.0 Duratech V6 - P0302

Also I've personally never had the spray-an-aerosol trick show me a vacuum leak.

I'm not saying it's never worked for anybody, but it's never worked for me. You may need to pony up for or build a legit smoke machine.

What are MAF readings and fuel trims doing?
I think the aerosol spray may have worked for me once or twice, so long ago I can't say for sure. I guess that's not a ringing endorsement.

Fuel trims were good! I'll go out and record them.

I wondered about the TPS as well - I should hook up the Scan Gauge to confirm the progression is steady.
 
Good question - I don't know. I did the idle relearn, and it runs a lot better now.

So many possibilities - people on a Fusion forum suggest that bad motor mounts are common around this mileage (157K km/97.5K miles).

I don't want to fire the parts cannon at it though - I'll turn it back over to my friend, and ask him to let me know if/when the CEL comes back.
Yeah motor mounts are allegedly problematic on the Focii of the era, too. I serviced an '09 that had an annoying vibe at idle. The car had about 200k miles so I replaced the motor mounts (albeit with aftermarket-- don't remember who) and it made zero difference (shrug)

The guy driving the car didn't care much and we never figured it out. It was just a minor annoyance anyway
 
Just got my wife to start the car and then shift into D, while I watched the engine compartment. The engine shifted significantly. I suspect the "dogbone" motor mount is sloppy.
 
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Hey, BITOG, it looks like the Fusion needs a "dogbone" torque strut (rear motor mount).

Which brands are good, and which should I avoid?

Thanks.
Screenshot_20240820-191210.webp
 
Hey, BITOG, it looks like the Fusion needs a "dogbone" torque strut (rear motor mount).

Which brands are good, and which should I avoid?

Thanks.
View attachment 236418
Honestly those are all junk. I wanted to believe that DEA/Marmon was decent but I don't think so.

Anchor and Westar are the same, and junk. SKP and UltraPower seem to be Dorman = all junk. Everything FVP sells is junk. Pioneer tends to be low dollar and low quality.

Truly, I wouldn't use any of those unless I had no other choice. Message a VIN to @bdcardinal and see if OEM is available (because apparently I've declared that I'm his scheduler/manager)
 
Arg, I spent the last couple of hours under the car, and discovered it's AWD. (I guess I missed the subtle decal on the trunk.)

Anyway, hoping the AWD dogbones are more reputable - too tired to check tonight.
 
It appeared (though I was running out of light and so knocked off for the day) that the bolts for the torque strut are blocked by the exhaust system. They're loose, but can't be pulled out far enough to be removed.

It would have been just as easy for them to design it with the bolts going through the other way. GRRR!

Busy tomorrow, but perhaps back at it in the evening.
 
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Honestly those are all junk. I wanted to believe that DEA/Marmon was decent but I don't think so.

Anchor and Westar are the same, and junk. SKP and UltraPower seem to be Dorman = all junk. Everything FVP sells is junk. Pioneer tends to be low dollar and low quality.

Truly, I wouldn't use any of those unless I had no other choice. Message a VIN to @bdcardinal and see if OEM is available (because apparently I've declared that I'm his scheduler/manager)
I do like pizza. OP, shoot me the VIN (whole or last 8) and I can get you part numbers.
 
@bdcardinal, thanks! At this point I'm stymied by the rusted-on exhaust system hardware, so must deal with that first. I applied more penetrating oil and freeze spray an hour or so ago, and hammered away with the impact wrench to no avail.

I really don't want to twist anything off by applying too much torque.

I'll let it sit overnight and try again tomorrow. Oh for an inductive heater!
 
I'm having a really hard time following the path of troubleshooting and repair in this thread. It started with a misfire (and misfire code) under load and we were thinking a bad coil but then it turned out that the PCM has been repaired and might be bad again. Now it idles well, but stumbles and hesitates at low RPM but smooths out under load. No apparent vacuum leak and good fuel trims, so you're replacing motor mounts...??

What about the bad coil? What about the PCM? (in the last year, I have known several Ford owners, including myself, with bad PCMs, weird) Any thoughts as to why the original problem went away (?) and you have a different problem now?
 
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I'm having a really hard time following the path of troubleshooting and repair in this thread. It started with a misfire (and misfire code) under load and we were thinking a bad coil but then it turned out that the PCM has been repaired and might be bad again. Now it idles well, but stumbles and hesitates at low RPM but smooths out under load. No apparent vacuum leak and good fuel trims, so you're replacing motor mounts...??

What about the bad coil? What about the PCM? (in the last year, I have known several Ford owners, including myself, with bad PCMs, weird) Any thoughts as to why the original problem went away (?) and you have a different problem now?
With reason - were I to give this thread a new title, it might be something like "2007 Ford Fusion 3.0 - A Study In Scope Creep" or "Down The Rabbit Hole With A 2007 Fusion".

You've pretty much got the sequence of events correct - I'll provide a bit more history. A few weeks ago a friend mentioned that his car would go dead after sitting for a few days. I offered to check the dark current and battery health.

He brought the car over, and I checked the dark current (c. 25 mA - pretty normal) and load-tested the battery (which stayed in the green, so passed fine), and told him to drive it more often or buy a trickle charger.

He mentioned there was also a CEL. I read it (P0302 - misfire on #2) and cleared it. Cylinder #2 is on the rear bank, and it's necessary to pull the IM to access the plug and coil, so I didn't check the #2 plug. I did pull #5 (middle plug on the front bank) and it looked fine. (I wanted to get a feeling for the state of the plugs.)

He put me in touch with his son who told me about a bad coil killing a diode in the ECM at some point in the past. Son said the damage was apparent once one opened the ECM. That had also caused a P0302.

My friend brought the car back, and my plan was to pull the ECM and do a visual inspection. However, the CEL had still not triggered again. My friend had mentioned that flooring it and winding up the revs a bit will trigger the CEL.

I took the car for a drive (had not driven it previously), and noticed it idled roughly and lurched and jerked badly at low speed. There was a bad lag under acceleration, but after the revs got up, it ran fine. Steady-state cruising was fine. No CEL, although I would have fully expected one based on how rough it was at low speeds.

OK, so running poorly with no CEL? Time to do some research.

The first thing I tried was an idle relearn, which I should have done, but didn't know about, after I had disconnected the -ve battery terminal for the dark current test.

The relearn brought the idle up, and the engine was now fine at idle in Park. (Thanks, Fusion forums!) However, it was still pretty rough in D, though not as bad as before the idle relearn.

The other thing that kept coming up on the forums was that if the idle was acceptable in P but poor in D, a likely cause was a worn "dog bone" torsion strut. I had my wife start the car and shift into D while I watched the engine compartment, and was a bit surprised to see the engine lurch quite a few degrees.

Today I got the exhaust pipe removed (broke an exhaust manifold flange stud, which I had to drill out) and was then able to remove the dog bone.

Poor design - they could have easily made it such that the exhaust system did not block the dog bone bolts.
 
But you still have a problem with the ECM, right? I think you need get that sorted out.

Is it a failed diode or a failed capacitor? I think that a lot of (?) Fords have problems with failed capacitors as the PCMs age. Maybe you could send the PCM to a rebuilder... I have a Ford PCM story.

My dad was a farmer. He passed away a year ago and my brothers and I were busy getting equipment ready for a giant auction. One of his trucks was a 1993 Ford F350 with the 460 gas engine. It was running poorly, so we took it to a local shop to get it running well in time for the auction.

They somehow determined the PCM was bad and they kept the truck for months without getting it repaired. I don't understand what they did to it, but they were apparently trying to get a PCM from O'Reilly and couldn't? It didn't get fixed in time for the auction, and after the shop gave up, we had it towed back to the farm, where my brothers and I turned our efforts to it.

We removed the PCM and found it had "O Reilly" written on it with a marker and a recent date. The electrolytic capacitors on the board had been obviously (sloppily) replaced. I presume this was done by a professional PCM rebuilder.

Anyway, it was determined that the PCM was turning one bank of injectors full on and the other bank full off. I guess that would explain why when we got the truck back there were about 10 inches of oil+gas mix on the dipstick. My EE brother somehow figured out that the PCM was damaged beyond repair - voltage at one part of the circuit board was out of whack. We got a presumed good one from eBay, and it worked. He updated the capacitors in this one with some good quality replacements and the truck is running pretty good now.
 
But you still have a problem with the ECM, right? I think you need get that sorted out.

Is it a failed diode or a failed capacitor? I think that a lot of (?) Fords have problems with failed capacitors as the PCMs age. Maybe you could send the PCM to a rebuilder... I have a Ford PCM story.
Good story!

I'm not convinced the Fusion has a misfire. If the CEL comes back with a related code, then I'll investigate further.
 
The owner would prefer to keep the cost down, given that this is an old car that he won't run indefinitely.

Per a local NAPA rep, they can bring in a part from elsewhere in Canada for > $150 plus $20 shipping, manufacturer unknown. 😳

I'll phone a Ford dealer tomorrow, but fear the worst.

In the meantime, here are the Rock Auto options for AWD:

Screenshot_20240825-171702~2.webp


All cross over to the Ford part number (9E5Z-6068-D) - thank you, @bdcardinal!

Based on the descriptions, I think the DEA/Marmont Ride Control part sounds the most trustworthy.

Thoughts? Thank you!

Screenshot_20240825-171702~2.webp
 
I replaced the original torque strut with a Ford part from the dealer. The idle in P is almost perfect now, and much better in gear than it was.

I suspect that the two motor mounts are worn, but will leave that decision up to my friend. If he's happy with the car as-is, great.

There's still no CEL, so I haven't pursued that any further.

The battery does go low after a few days in spite of testing as good and the dark current being acceptable (< 30 mA). I'll start a separate thread on that in the Electrical subforum.
 
My friend picked up the car, and the CEL came on as he drove home. ☹️

If it turns out to be a P0302 again, I'll pull the ECM and investigate further.
 
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