Strange misfire (P0302) on my new Scion

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Regulars here may know that I bought a 2012 Scion xB with 80k miles for $3000. The reason for the great price is that it has the defective super white paint and it has completely peeled off the roof and is now coming off the body panels in big sheets. This car was used as a security vehicle in a fancy golf resort HOA so it spent almost its entire life going 10-15 mph down residential streets. When I bought it the gauges showed an average MPG of 12.1 and an average speed of 7 mph LOL.

Anyway, it drove fine on the test drive but now 100 miles later it is having a big issue. It started with a little shuddering on acceleration but on the way home I was driving up a hill at 57mph with the cruise control set and it suddenly freaked out. The CEL and Trac off light started flashing, the engine speed dropped then revved hard, and the wheels/transmission started shuddering hard. I braked, kicked it into neutral and pulled over, but after just a few seconds it was gone and the lights went off. I pulled out again and as I approached 50 mph it started shuddering but not as hard. The code reader showed a P0302 (cylinder 2 misfire detected) code. I replaced all of the spark plugs and tried driving the same route again. The slight shuddering was gone but the same big problem happened again at the exact same place under load coming up the same hill, and this time the CEL light stayed on. Same code.

I bought a new Denso coil and replaced #2 today and it immediately made the issue much worse. There was a noticeable misfire at idle that wasn't there before. Putting the original coil back in resolved the idle issue. Thinking it might be a defective replacement I went to Autozone and bought another one, but it had the same issue and also threw the same code at idle, which it didn't even do before.

How does installing a new coil make the problem worse? What should I do next?

I'm really stating to be reminded of why I always preferred buying new cars LOL. My other Scion decided to do strange stuff last week as well. I'm now 1 for 3 with used Scions, and I sold the good one :(
 
Bummer. :(

New oem coil or something else? might not non oem.

Wonder if a lifetime of easy driving has rings stuck, deposits, other ills.
 
Bummer. :(

New oem coil or something else? might not non oem.

Wonder if a lifetime of easy driving has rings stuck, deposits, other ills.
Denso is the OEM for this car.

It probably does have issues from all the idling (the plugs were crusty) but that doesn't explain how swapping the coil with two new ones makes it worse. I'm perplexed.
 
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Did you change the spark plug?
New plugs in all four cylinders. It would be a heck of a coincidence if I replaced a bad plug with a bad plug. Changing the plugs definitely helped but didn’t fix the problem when it missed under a heavy load.

Clearly I’m in over my head here.
 
New plugs in all four cylinders. It would be a heck of a coincidence if I replaced a bad plug with a bad plug. Changing the plugs definitely helped but didn’t fix the problem when it missed under a heavy load.

Clearly I’m in over my head here.
Missing under heavy load is a perfect trait of a plug. I would either change that one again, or swap cylinders if its easy. Bad plugs happen - its rare but not unheard of. It could have a hairline crack or been damaged on install.

Clean the connector. The fact that supposed "good" coils actually change things at all makes me suspect this.

Log your long term fuel trims - under load. There are lots of cheap tools that will do that - torque pro or 4-stroke both do. If it leans out under load it will show up in the trims. If so, then its likely a sticky injector on that cylinder.

Your not over your head if you got this far.
 
I experienced something very similar while driving a friend's Honda Odyssey several years ago. After much trial and error testing, I determined it was a partially broken wire in the connector plug's pigtail for that coil. I spliced in a replacement connector sourced from the salvage yard and the Honda still runs perfect today, more than 100,000 miles later.
 
Swap plugs between cylinders and see if it changes.

This is NOT helping me as I try to figure out my next vehicle purchase, lol. Driving our 20 year old CRV today I was listening to some random popping sound going down the road…
 
Swap plugs between cylinders and see if it changes.

This is NOT helping me as I try to figure out my next vehicle purchase, lol. Driving our 20 year old CRV today I was listening to some random popping sound going down the road…
I swapped coils and got the same result. I’m going to try another new plug next after cleaning the MAF.

The fact that swapping the coils gave me the same result on the same cylinder makes me suspect the connector as well. I’ll try cleaning it and see if that helps.
 
I swapped coils and got the same result. I’m going to try another new plug next after cleaning the MAF.

The fact that swapping the coils gave me the same result on the same cylinder makes me suspect the connector as well. I’ll try cleaning it and see if that helps.
Do you suspect a misfire on any other cylinders. I would not clean the MAF sensor unless you suspect issues with more than one misfire. At minimum check your Long term fuel trims first. If they happen to be decent, its likely not the MAF.

One variable at a time - starting with most likely variables. Don't introduce new variables.

You can clean your MAF sensor later - once the misfire is fixed.
 
Regulars here may know that I bought a 2012 Scion xB with 80k miles for $3000. The reason for the great price is that it has the defective super white paint and it has completely peeled off the roof and is now coming off the body panels in big sheets. This car was used as a security vehicle in a fancy golf resort HOA so it spent almost its entire life going 10-15 mph down residential streets. When I bought it the gauges showed an average MPG of 12.1 and an average speed of 7 mph LOL.

Anyway, it drove fine on the test drive but now 100 miles later it is having a big issue. It started with a little shuddering on acceleration but on the way home I was driving up a hill at 57mph with the cruise control set and it suddenly freaked out. The CEL and Trac off light started flashing, the engine speed dropped then revved hard, and the wheels/transmission started shuddering hard. I braked, kicked it into neutral and pulled over, but after just a few seconds it was gone and the lights went off. I pulled out again and as I approached 50 mph it started shuddering but not as hard. The code reader showed a P0302 (cylinder 2 misfire detected) code. I replaced all of the spark plugs and tried driving the same route again. The slight shuddering was gone but the same big problem happened again at the exact same place under load coming up the same hill, and this time the CEL light stayed on. Same code.

I bought a new Denso coil and replaced #2 today and it immediately made the issue much worse. There was a noticeable misfire at idle that wasn't there before. Putting the original coil back in resolved the idle issue. Thinking it might be a defective replacement I went to Autozone and bought another one, but it had the same issue and also threw the same code at idle, which it didn't even do before.

How does installing a new coil make the problem worse? What should I do next?

I'm really stating to be reminded of why I always preferred buying new cars LOL. My other Scion decided to do strange stuff last week as well. I'm now 1 for 3 with used Scions, and I sold the good one :(

move that suspect coil to another cylinder first
 
...
I bought a new Denso coil and replaced #2 today and it immediately made the issue much worse. There was a noticeable misfire at idle that wasn't there before. Putting the original coil back in resolved the idle issue. Thinking it might be a defective replacement I went to Autozone and bought another one, but it had the same issue and also threw the same code at idle, which it didn't even do before.

How does installing a new coil make the problem worse? What should I do next?

I swapped coils and got the same result. I’m going to try another new plug next after cleaning the MAF.

The fact that swapping the coils gave me the same result on the same cylinder makes me suspect the connector as well. I’ll try cleaning it and see if that helps.
These are the key clues that point to the connector plug and/or associated wiring pigtail. You have tried two new coils without resolving the misfire. Odds are extremely low that you now have three bad coils. The only other variable that was touched is the connector and associated wiring harness. When it comes to mechanical and electrical issues like car repair, I always default to the cause and effect principle (i.e., if the problem appears/conditions change after I work on it, something I touched caused it). There is a lot of validity to Occam's Razor.
 
I suggest you do a compression test.

Me too do a careful compression check, maybe even a differential comp check and listen to where any leaks are. Also check coolant/head gasket. Some of those have a tendency to blow head gaskets
 
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What's the fuel trim situation?
You went over the air intake hose/clean the MAF?
Time for studying live data 📊
Short term fuel trim hovered around 0. Long term between 3.8 and 7. This is on a drive into town and back, so under a normal driving load.

Unfortunately I don’t know if those are good or bad results.
 
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