Won't be doing an analysis on My Toyota Truck

[Christopher R. Wise]

Hey Al, just in case you might want to know.

LC Engineering.com has a Double Chain Conversion Kit for the 22RE, a little pricey but may be worth it . About $500

CRW

 

[Pablo]

Bummer - I sold my Toyota truck at 110K - chain was fine as far as I knew. Usually the chains last a fair bit. Just goes to show you - when are cars "detonate" it probably won't have anything to do with the oil.

 

[wulimaster]

quote:

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Originally posted by wulimaster:

Go for the metal guides from LE Engineering in Lake Havasu, Arizona.

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Make that LC Engineering.

And I even picked up my timing chain and metal guides in person a few weeks back when I was in Havasu so you would think I would get it right.

 

[wulimaster]

quote:

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Originally posted by Toy4x4:
I know of one chain that went 400K before it was changed.

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Was this an earlier 22R with the double chain and metal guides? All RE's have plastic guides and a single chain.

 

[TooSlick]

Al,

A coworker with a 1994 toyota PU and 22RE engine had his timing chain break in the first 50,000 miles. He was running synthetic the entire time.

Never heard what caused the problem.

Ted

 

[drm7]

I did a lot of reading on the 22re engines before I bought my Mazda B4000. I planned to get a 95 toy 4x4 but my wife took a new job and it paid well so we upgraded to a new B4000. If you read the toy boards you will definitely want the metal guides. I never read where the timing chain went because of the guides but it is common for the guide to wear a hole in the water jacket and leak coolant into your oil. I think DOA racing/engineering out of Charlotte, NC also has the metal guides. After buying my B4000 I found out that these Ford 4.0l V6s have 2 timing chains, one in front of the engine and one on the back??? Each runs one bank of cylinders. There is no posted service interval and it seems they do last a long time. But, a friend had the front one replaced by a dip**** and he started it and crashed the valves as these are interference engines. The mechanic is in the middle of a bankruptcy so my friend doesn't think he'll be able to collect a new engine from this guy. Lesson learned, don't fool around with timing chains/belts. Get them done right and on time.

 

[Arved]

quote:

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Originally posted by Garry:
Ask your mechanic about aftermarket t-chain guides that are made of metal. You may want to replace the following while you are having this work done: timing chain tensioner, water pump, thermostat. Whatever you do, do not anything other than Toyota OEM coolant. It would take too long to explain, but trust me on this one. Also, ask to have the 180 degree thermostat installed. In Japan this is the thermostat that was used. In NA they went to 190 or 195, but this engine has better longevity with the 180 t-stat.

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Great information! Thanks. I have ~130 miles on my truck - 115K by previous owner. I am my own mechanic - where do I find these metal chain guides? Is this worth doing as a preventative measure, or should/could I wait until the chain fails.

I'd love to hear about the Toyota coolant. Previous owner had Prestone Green crappola. I went to Texaco Havoline extended life (after a thorough flush). Replaced water pump, thermostat, and radiator last year due to chronic overheating (radiator was the culprit). Going to change thermostat on your recommendation.

If the stuff on the coolant is too long to post, or there isn't a handy web page to refer to, please e-mail me at [email protected] - thanks!

- Arved
1994 Toyota 2WD Pickup

 

[Arved]

quote:

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Originally posted by Drew99GT:
The Toyota Red coolent is supposed to be the best out there. Many non-Toyota owners use it.

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That's kind of funny. When I had my 83 Supra, it came with the red coolant. I'd never seen it before. When I went to the dealer to ask about replacing it (I was going to do it myself, so I went to the parts counter), they just recommended Prestone green-crapola. I guess they wanted me back for the $140 water pumps (and that was the price for a remanufactured pump).

quote:

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It says on the bottle it is an extended life coolent, but still recomends replacing every 2 years.

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Extended drain or not, I just can't leave coolant in the engine more than a year.

quote:

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It is a silicate free coolent that WILL NOT gum up cooling systems.[/qg]

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The Texaco Havoline coolant is also silicate free. Then again, list time I checked a bottle of Prestone green, they claimed silicate and phosphate free, too.

Since I already took the trouble to switch to Havoline Dexcool, is there really an advantage to go with Toyota coolant?

I'm actually more concerned about my motorcycle. I switched that to Dexcool, too. Seeing as how replacing the water pump on that bike requires pulling the engine from the frame, it's something where I'm willing to do just about anything as far as preventative maintenance in order to avoid unscheduled maintenance.

quote:

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[qb] Main thing is to use distilled water.

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LOL... I've been doing that since my days using Prestone green. At 50-cents a gallon, locally, it's a no-brainer.

I have been a bit concerned, though, with contaminating the cooling system using the back-flush kits. Tap water is very hard here. I get this nagging sensation that I really should fill-and-drain a couple times with distilled water to flush out the minerals left by the tap water used in the back-flush.

Have we created enough thread drift

?

- Arved

 

[Toy4x4]

wuli,
I don't know what chain it was, sorry.

Al,
Check your PM.

 

[Garry]

Toyota coolant is not only silicate free but phosphate free as well. If mixed woth distilled water, this coolant does not gell like some of their competitors. Whatever you do, do not mox green with red collant as the two are not compatible. Other coolanits such as Dexcool (Deathtool) are also red, but they are considerably inderior to the product Toyota puts out both in terms of protection and compatibility with aluminum components.

This board has some additional information:
http://www.t4x4pickup.com/dgroup/

 

[Al]

Thank you all for your replies and helpful. I'll discuss these items with the dealer. Probably the metal guides may not be an option as I am having the Dealer do the job. They have it torn apart as we speak. I'll consider changing the coolant and going to another stat. I probably will do those myself in spring to save the cash. I have DexCool (Dexbrick) in right now. I have had very good success with this product. I believe that it is a decent coolant.

Once again-thanks all.

 

[Drew99GT]

The Toyota Red coolent is supposed to be the best out there. Many non-Toyota owners use it. It says on the bottle it is an extended life coolent, but still recomends replacing every 2 years. It is a silicate free coolent that WILL NOT gum up cooling systems. My 94 Corolla has had it since birth and already had 3 flushes, and the cooling system is SPOTLESS. I've also seen pictures of radiators in really old Corollas with over 400K that have only used Toyota Red, and they too are spotless; not even one trace of mineral deposits/accumulation. Main thing is to use distilled water.