WM TLE still uses anti-seize on lug studs?!?!

It proves that some things aren't as complicated as people make themselves believe they are. People stress about precisely torqueing lug nuts too much. Just hand tighten it well or use your impact gun on a lower torque setting. I use my old half inch snap on at 2/5 first then 4/5 which is tight enough if I'm short on time or just injured in some way. But i prefer to hand tighten if i can.
You are oversimplifying in this case. The lug nuts staying on isn't the only measure of success. Even distribution of clamping force is also considered when torqueing.
 
You are oversimplifying in this case. The lug nuts staying on isn't the only measure of success. Even distribution of clamping force is also considered when torqueing.
Yeah i know. First i snug them on by hand then use a lower amount of torque like 2/5 on my gun in a cross pattern. Then i do it again but with more force equivalent to the 4/5 setting on my gun while crossing. Then i finish off with just a hand check with my tire iron.
 
Yeah i know. First i snug them on by hand then use a lower amount of torque like 2/5 on my gun in a cross pattern. Then i do it again but with more force equivalent to the 4/5 setting on my gun while crossing. Then i finish off with just a hand check with my tire iron.
Impact to spec?

I’ll probably get flamed for saying this, but my Milwaukee 2962 on setting #1 will consistently get Honda/Toyota lug nuts very close to the 80 ft-lb setting. When I follow up with a torque wrench it only requires ~1/16th of a turn. I suspect that setting #2 would probably get them safely past 80 ft lbs.
 
I've always greased my nuts! Every time my wheels are off I'll clean them with some brake clean and a wire brush (if necessary but rarely if they've been greased) and apply a pea sized amount of anti-seize in the threads. I'll usually run them in and out of the hub before I install the wheel just to spread the grease evenly. Always use a torque wrench too, I'd worry too much that I hadn't done them tight enough or done them too tight if I didn't :ROFLMAO:
 
Impact to spec?

I’ll probably get flamed for saying this, but my Milwaukee 2962 on setting #1 will consistently get Honda/Toyota lug nuts very close to the 80 ft-lb setting. When I follow up with a torque wrench it only requires ~1/16th of a turn. I suspect that setting #2 would probably get them safely past 80 ft lbs.
I have an old snap on that i got for free since it had an issue which i easily fixed and put back together and it just refuses to die so I'll keep trying. But 4/5 on it with my compressor psi is equal to properly tightened or just not overtightened to where it can't be removed by hand on the side of the road but it depends on the gun, hose diameter, and tank psi so always try out a combo then check by hand to see what works. When i do eventually get a new 1/2" ill have to cycle through the torque dial and see what's what.
 
I have an old snap on that i got for free since it had an issue which i easily fixed and put back together and it just refuses to die so I'll keep trying. But 4/5 on it with my compressor psi is equal to properly tightened or just not overtightened to where it can't be removed by hand on the side of the road but it depends on the gun, hose diameter, and tank psi so always try out a combo then check by hand to see what works. When i do eventually get a new 1/2" ill have to cycle through the torque dial and see what's what.
Consistency of torque is the most critical component of lug nut torque, not the torque value itself. Unfortunately that is where most impacts fail. After using my Milwaukee on setting #1, I will often find that 3 lug nuts require a 1/16th turn with my torque wrench to reach 80 ft lbs while the other 2 need 1/8th of a turn.

Would the wheels have fallen off? No, but the inconsistency is what causes rotor runout to develop (in theory).
 
Consistency of torque is the most critical component of lug nut torque, not the torque value itself. Unfortunately that is where most impacts fail. I will often find that 3 lug nuts would require a 1/16th turn with my torque wrench to reach 80 ft lbs while the other 2 need 1/8th of a turn.

Would the wheels have fallen off? No, but the inconsistency is what causes rotor runout to develop (in theory).
True. That's why i hand check each one at the end with my tire iron. Never had one loosen but neither have i had one not been able to be loosened on the side of the road unless it was impact tightened at the tire shop. Those never come off by hand unless you got a fat guy with a cheater pipe. Which is what it literally took to get them off one time in 2007 near Laredo tx. A Fat guy with a cheater pipe. Gave the guy a twenty and a ten for being kind enough to help a stranded stranger he had no inclination to help.
 
It's my understanding that using an anti-seize paste on the lugs bolts will "allow" the bolts to be over-tightened, even with a torque wrench.
 
It's my understanding that using an anti-seize paste on the lugs bolts will "allow" the bolts to be over-tightened, even with a torque wrench.

The torque that is applied, is applied by the person using the wrench.... Not the anti seize. You have to reduce torque on any lubricated thread. Usually on lug nuts it's around 10 to 15 percent. It's not that critical.
 
It's my understanding that using an anti-seize paste on the lugs bolts will "allow" the bolts to be over-tightened, even with a torque wrench.
Kinda not sorta - not the way to think about it.

The wrench isn't the factor as billt460 says. Simple way to think about is. As nut gets tighter, friction increases.......lube or even loctit or anti-grand mal juice will decrease that friction so nut will "keep going" stretching the stud.......with less force. Just come up on the recommended torque and not go over it and you will be fine.
 
In the trucking industry, it is specified to put two drops of oil on a stud before installing and torqueing the nut.

I've studied the Dacromet coating on stud bolts. It is almost exactly the same as antiseize. The only difference is the the carrier is paint instead of oil. Otherwise, both just a layer of 30-micron sized zinc and aluminum flakes.

Some time ago we studied the effect of antiseize on lug nut torqueing. We found you can break the stud bolt at specified torque if you slather on the antiseize and include the nut mount surface. It is the nut mount surface that had the greatest effect on clamp load at specified torque.

On another study of automotive stud bolts, I found it took 400 ft-lbs to start necking the stud. So a little bit of overtorque won't ruin the studs.
 
Just replaced tires on friends trailer. Mavis put the old ones on 5 years ago and I don't think they were off since then. It doesn't see a lot of miles. I used my high torque Milwaukee 2767 on bolt removal mode (It does hard impact then slows to 750 rpm when free). That thing went hard impact for a lot then free, then impact, then free multiple times on each lug nut which were warm when they came off. I can't say with confidence that the 4 way lug wrench would have removed them roadside without bending wrench or breaking stud.

I wire brushed the lugs and studs good, put a small amount of copper anti-seize at end threads toward base of studs where lug tightens. Lugs nuts screwed on decent by hand, rest of way with wrench easy. Torqued to with reqular torque wrench to 100 ft/lbs. I'll recheck on some miles when I use this week. Rest of exposed stud threads sprayed with fluid film after.

On my cars I use the copper anti-seize at hub bore contact spots, possibly a very slight amount on threads of studs. I run winter tires/rims so they are off at least 2x per year maybe more depending other rotation/maintenance. I haven't had issues as long as I did them even being in rust belt.
 
On every used car I buy I remove and retorque every lug on the car, so I have no surprises when I get a flat on the road.

On one car, all lugs were torqued to over 200 ft-lbs. I had to jump on the breaker bar to loosen them.

On another car I broke two stud bolts because the nuts wouldn't come off.

Better to solve these problems on your driveway than on the road.

I also test out the tire jack, to make sure it works and to train myself.
 
In CA we absolutely were not allowed to use anti seize on heavy truck or school bus lug nuts. CHP would fail us at inspection time. Engine oil was a no go also. I would always use whatever spray penatrating oil we had around. Budd nuts or the flat face metric jobs with the captive washer.
 
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