Do that on any Audi Audi RS or R8 and I guarantee you will have brake judder.
You are oversimplifying in this case. The lug nuts staying on isn't the only measure of success. Even distribution of clamping force is also considered when torqueing.It proves that some things aren't as complicated as people make themselves believe they are. People stress about precisely torqueing lug nuts too much. Just hand tighten it well or use your impact gun on a lower torque setting. I use my old half inch snap on at 2/5 first then 4/5 which is tight enough if I'm short on time or just injured in some way. But i prefer to hand tighten if i can.
Yeah i know. First i snug them on by hand then use a lower amount of torque like 2/5 on my gun in a cross pattern. Then i do it again but with more force equivalent to the 4/5 setting on my gun while crossing. Then i finish off with just a hand check with my tire iron.You are oversimplifying in this case. The lug nuts staying on isn't the only measure of success. Even distribution of clamping force is also considered when torqueing.
Impact to spec?Yeah i know. First i snug them on by hand then use a lower amount of torque like 2/5 on my gun in a cross pattern. Then i do it again but with more force equivalent to the 4/5 setting on my gun while crossing. Then i finish off with just a hand check with my tire iron.
I have an old snap on that i got for free since it had an issue which i easily fixed and put back together and it just refuses to die so I'll keep trying. But 4/5 on it with my compressor psi is equal to properly tightened or just not overtightened to where it can't be removed by hand on the side of the road but it depends on the gun, hose diameter, and tank psi so always try out a combo then check by hand to see what works. When i do eventually get a new 1/2" ill have to cycle through the torque dial and see what's what.Impact to spec?
I’ll probably get flamed for saying this, but my Milwaukee 2962 on setting #1 will consistently get Honda/Toyota lug nuts very close to the 80 ft-lb setting. When I follow up with a torque wrench it only requires ~1/16th of a turn. I suspect that setting #2 would probably get them safely past 80 ft lbs.
Consistency of torque is the most critical component of lug nut torque, not the torque value itself. Unfortunately that is where most impacts fail. After using my Milwaukee on setting #1, I will often find that 3 lug nuts require a 1/16th turn with my torque wrench to reach 80 ft lbs while the other 2 need 1/8th of a turn.I have an old snap on that i got for free since it had an issue which i easily fixed and put back together and it just refuses to die so I'll keep trying. But 4/5 on it with my compressor psi is equal to properly tightened or just not overtightened to where it can't be removed by hand on the side of the road but it depends on the gun, hose diameter, and tank psi so always try out a combo then check by hand to see what works. When i do eventually get a new 1/2" ill have to cycle through the torque dial and see what's what.
True. That's why i hand check each one at the end with my tire iron. Never had one loosen but neither have i had one not been able to be loosened on the side of the road unless it was impact tightened at the tire shop. Those never come off by hand unless you got a fat guy with a cheater pipe. Which is what it literally took to get them off one time in 2007 near Laredo tx. A Fat guy with a cheater pipe. Gave the guy a twenty and a ten for being kind enough to help a stranded stranger he had no inclination to help.Consistency of torque is the most critical component of lug nut torque, not the torque value itself. Unfortunately that is where most impacts fail. I will often find that 3 lug nuts would require a 1/16th turn with my torque wrench to reach 80 ft lbs while the other 2 need 1/8th of a turn.
Would the wheels have fallen off? No, but the inconsistency is what causes rotor runout to develop (in theory).
I do something similar. I torque the lug nuts in 2 stages: 1st to 50#, then to 85#. No anti-seize.I use a 80# torque stick and just run down the lugs softly. Finish with my Bonney torque wrench. Love that thing...
It's my understanding that using an anti-seize paste on the lugs bolts will "allow" the bolts to be over-tightened, even with a torque wrench.
Kinda not sorta - not the way to think about it.It's my understanding that using an anti-seize paste on the lugs bolts will "allow" the bolts to be over-tightened, even with a torque wrench.