I have to wonder why the plugs were difficult to remove; it seems odd it was the anti seize. By the way, NGK says to follow vehicle manufacturer's recommendations, not necessarily to install dry.
Anti Seize- Not good to use?
- Thread starter willbur
- Start date
Thanks
Honda is the only one, that I know of, that mentions using it in FSM. That's why I used it. I think the dried anti seize "wedges" itself between the plug threads and the head threads. I have done many sp R&R and this is the first time I had anything like this. I'm careful to either torque to spec or 1/4 to 1/2 turn after finger tight or whatever the sp maker recommends. Dunno, but this makes the most sense to me.
I think it's likely that the plugs were over-torqued, and the threads were deformed, causing the difficult removal.
Ah, Did you read my post above? I thought of this as a strong possibility but I typically under tighten fasteners. So perhaps but not likely. And, another guy in this thread mentioned the same difficulty w anti seize and sp in his Accord.
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Yup anti sneeze turns into loctite after it heats up and drys out on spark plug threads a few years or so out. I have always had problems with it in Al heads. Now if your R and R ing them every week then it maybe okay. This would be a good thing for the Farm guy to do a test on, all the different brands of anti seize, though to do a real test will take years. 
Maybe when you do it, not with me. Anti seize always makes it very difficult to remove them, years down the road.
Thanks for that sharing that. I was a proponent of AZ on sp threads but my experience on plugs years out now convinces to not use it again.Yup anti sneeze turns into loctite after it heats up and drys out on spark plug threads a few years or so out. I have always had problems with it in Al heads. Now if your R and R ing them every week then it maybe okay. This would be a good thing for the Farm guy to do a test on, all the different brands of anti seize, though to do a real test will take years.
Most spark plug sockets have a 3/8” drive. Using a 3/8” ratchet makes it spooky when applying torque by hand. I use a 3/8 by 1/2 inch cross-over and a 1/2 inch ratchet, then give it some tough love.
I have never used Anti-seize on spark plug threads and I've been changing plugs for over 40 years. I've only had a couple of plugs that were hard to come out and one actually broke but this was on an aluminum head 2.2L Chevrolet engine that had been overheated once. The first time I had changed plugs in this car, the plugs came out with no issues and there was not any anti-seize on the threads.
I learned early on that anything I have put on the threads gets washed out since the threads are on the fuel side of the gasket.
So the plugs were a bit difficult to remove and made noises, so now antiseize turns to "locktite"?
I used a small amount of anti-seize on the NGK iridium plugs I put in my ‘03 Corolla when I replaced the factory plugs at 100K. They came out just fine when I replaced them at 200K. God willing, I’ll do the same at 300K.
I hate it when that happens!So the plugs were a bit difficult to remove and made noises, so now antiseize turns to "locktite"?
When I changed the factory spark plugs on the Honda at 100,000 miles, they came out with no trouble at all. Honda does not recommend anti-seize, so I put in the OEM NGK Iridiums without anti-seize. If I still have the Pilot in another 85,000 miles, we'll see how those come out.
My Accord FSM specifies AZ and to tighten to 13 Ft-lbs.
A dab of Moly grease.
Ducati996
Ducati996
Thanks- I was thinking that or maybe a dab of graphite
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