Sure you could use anti-seize on your studs, but???

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For everyone that thinks using anti-seize on wheel studs is a great idea, you might want to think about it more. Sure it will torque up and clamp the living do-do up really tight, but at the same time it is also can stretch the stud beyond the yield point to the point they could just snap. Yes sometimes a stud could use a touch of like WD-40 to free us a rusty stud, otherwise there is too much friction, and then the clamping force of the wheel can be to low. Dry, clean wheels studs, and a good torque wrench is the correct way.
Here are a couple of pages from my training manual, which has examples of the what the effect of putting lube on the studs, which can DOUBLE the clamping force, which turn into tons of force. Proper clamping force is the key to keeping the wheels attached to your vehicle.
Also, excessive clamping forces will probably distort, and damage the lug nut seats on the wheel, and brake rotor. And who knows what damage there is to the actual threads on the nut/stud.


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I used to work in concrete testing, inspecting labs to make sure they were operating consistently. One of the inspection items was making sure the lab wasn't using grease on the spherical seat of the compression test machine's head. Oil will squeeze out of the joint under static load and the metal to metal contact will lock the head in place. Grease in the joint will never fully squeeze out, and the test specimen can kick violently out to the side when it starts to fail.

Any time I'm counting on friction to hold a joint together, I don't want anything in the middle that could allow the connection to move.
 
I use a tiny bit of anti seize to avoid galling the threads. On spark plugs as well.
Of course I do clean the threads.

I understand there are reasons against this; this is just what I do.
 
Right, this has been posted here about 180 times.

I still use a very small amount of boeshield-t9 on the threads none on the seat/head.. much better than replacing studs or spindles(lug bolts) in salt country.
 
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I posted in the other thread about Walmart doing this based on it being, apparently, their "corporate policy". If that's the case, you can be certain that they had a team of lawyers investigate this from a liability standpoint (no, I don't mean the lawyers got into mechanical calculations, etc, etc - they hire folks who deal with this stuff). If putting anti-seize on lug nuts is going to cause them to fall off and a wheel fall off, Walmart isn't going to go this route.
 
I don't think it's a 100% increase. I thought lubed threads got 15-20% less torque than dry?

100% seems like fasteners would be getting stipped like crazy, especially larger suspension fasteners that you almost have to anti sieze in the rustbelt and are likely to gun back on without a torque wrench.
 
Wheel studs are part of our business. We have actually run controlled studies trying to duplicate the damage seen in the field. Antiseize on the threads will not elongate and neck threads. We have seen damaged studs when people get happy with the antiseize and slather it on the nut mounting face as well as the threads, then torque to specification.

I also found automotive wheel studs don't neck until applied torque is around 4X specification.

For truck studs we specify two drops of oil on the threads before torquing to specification.
 
Originally Posted by Rand
Right, this has been posted here about 180 times.

LOL, probably more! I'm concerned about the effects of lube on torque as much as anybody else here with OCD. There is no consensus. How does Permatex get away with stating this on their anti seize tech sheet: "Reassemble parts using normal torque values." https://441py33rout1ptjxn2lupv31-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/tech_docs/tds/80208.pdf

I use it as others above do, knowledgeable of the possible effects if used incorrectly. Also, engineering sites state that torque wrench use has a +/- 30% error range and that fasteners are designed for this.
 
You have to take into account that the manufacturer may have published the spec with lubed threads. Most Euro car that use wheel bolts should have the threads and shoulder lubed (many U.S. owners manuals omit this for liability issues when some monkey lathers them up, anyone that has owned one in the salt belt that was installed dry knows why). There is no problem with a thin coat of never seize on lugs either, the wheel will not loosen and fall off, aluminum wheels should be retorqued after 100km always. From a FSM..

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The thread title said "Sure you could use anti-seize". But everyone still seems to totally ignore the effect on wheel clamping force, which is going to over-stretch the wheel stud no matter how you justify it when using lube. If it make the nut easier to turn, it is going to turn much further before it comes up to the specified torque with the stud getting longer. How can that be the best practice, especially on cars that have quality plated studs, and lug nuts that still look new for years. Rusty, poorly maintained fasteners, all bets are off. Then it's always more of just a guess when using lube. I've torqued well over 50,000 lug nuts in the last 17 years, and have seen plenty of issues, and depending on the condition of the fastener, sometimes like on a German wheel bolt a little anti-seize is needed, but not every car needs it. It's mostly common sense.
 
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You've stated your belief. Leave it at that and move on. 98% of folks are going to keep doing what they've been doing - "I've been doing it for 42 years with no issues". If you convince the other 2%, be happy.
 
Originally Posted by hallstevenson
You've stated your belief. Leave it at that and move on. 98% of folks are going to keep doing what they've been doing - "I've been doing it for 42 years with no issues". If you convince the other 2%, be happy.

Did you even read the charts at the top of the page? Maybe not an issue, but that still doesn't always make it right.
 
Originally Posted by doitmyself
Originally Posted by Rand
Right, this has been posted here about 180 times.

LOL, probably more!

With all there is in this world to worry about, this ranks at the bottom of the list.
 
Living in the rust belt, If I didn't apply some sort of AS to my hubs and wheel studs, I'd never get a tire changed at the side of the road with OEM tools.
 
Originally Posted by Traction
The thread title said "Sure you could use anti-seize". But everyone still seems to totally ignore the effect on wheel clamping force, which is going to over-stretch the wheel stud no matter how you justify it when using lube. If it make the nut easier to turn, it is going to turn much further before it comes up to the specified torque with the stud getting longer. How can that be the best practice, especially on cars that have quality plated studs, and lug nuts that still look new for years. Rusty, poorly maintained fasteners, all bets are off. Then it's always more of just a guess when using lube. I've torqued well over 50,000 lug nuts in the last 17 years, and have seen plenty of issues, and depending on the condition of the fastener, sometimes like on a German wheel bolt a little anti-seize is needed, but not every car needs it. It's mostly common sense.

That you post some data that shows what "can" happen and then proceed in a knee-jerk reaction seems like the wrong way to get your point across.

You seem to contradict yourself. First you state that "everyone" is totally ignoring the effects of antiseize and it will over stretch the wheel studs "no matter how you justify it". Then, you state that you have seen plenty of issues, "depending on the condition of the fastener" and "sometimes....a little anti-seize is needed". And, " Rusty, poorly maintained fasteners, all bets are off. Then it's always more of just a guess when using lube." ????????? Which is it? Absolutely no anti seize or o.k. with careful use?

It seems that you are saying be mindful of your wheel fasteners and use "common sense". Clean, dacomet treated studs with covered lug nuts are probably o.k. as is, and rusty imperfect studs need some attention one way or another. I think most of us can agree on this.


Now, I am going to follow billt460's advice. I'm starting a campaign that all mechanics follow the FSM by using a torque wrench on every fastener. The current practice might work, but it just isn't right
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Originally Posted by billt460
Originally Posted by doitmyself
Originally Posted by Rand
Right, this has been posted here about 180 times.

LOL, probably more!

With all there is in this world to worry about, this ranks at the bottom of the list.


If we start being concerned only with topics that matter in this world, then there will be no need for the BITOG website.
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