What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
'21 Polaris Ranger: new front outer CV boots both sides, oil change, air filter. Working on getting new plugs but parts are always difficult with SxSs. This is a SOHC and uses a less-common Autolite 5684 or NGK LKAR6AIX-11. It's an M12 thread with 9/16" hex. Hopefully plugs show up tomorrow.
I also don't understand why CV boots from '21 would fail so quickly. The OEM replacements are stamped as TPE, so presumably factory was, too.
I also don't understand why CV boots from '21 would fail so quickly. The OEM replacements are stamped as TPE, so presumably factory was, too.
- Joined
- May 9, 2023
- Messages
- 113
2015 Forester: oil change-- managed to get old oil running down my leg and all over me. "Nothing to see here folks, I'm an expert."
And replaced a taillight bulb in same vehicle. Very exciting.
This young girl recognizes the value of a dollar and says she wants to keep the vehicle going as long as possible with regular maintenance. She actually pays attention to everything about the vehicle, including tire pressure, odd noises, etc
Maybe there is hope for mankind yet??
And replaced a taillight bulb in same vehicle. Very exciting.
This young girl recognizes the value of a dollar and says she wants to keep the vehicle going as long as possible with regular maintenance. She actually pays attention to everything about the vehicle, including tire pressure, odd noises, etc
Maybe there is hope for mankind yet??
That engine is going to rock once installed. It's even bringing its own supply.
Finally got a chance to do a cursory check of the Lexus; the wife encountered a curb returning home from dinner with the chicken heads. No, she wasn't under the influence. TBH, I don't really care about the circumstances that lead up to this. It happened and no one got hurt.
Also, what is it with me and wheels, lately?
From the looks of it, she scrubbed the curb and didn't roll over it. Hit kind of hard as evidenced by the brake dust.
Checked the air pressure; was 4psi under my set point. All other tires measured the same -4psi. After adjusting all tire pressures back to 32psi (ambient temp as ~50F), I took it for a test drive, in town and on the interstate.
No weird vibes and the car tracked straight. The steering wheel had a very slight turn to the right (I don't know if it was like this before or not; one tends not to notice these things until something like this happens. I need to take it in next week to have the alignment and the tire checked for separation (I doubt there's any).
In the mean time, I'll get out the dial indicator and check the wheel TIR.
The wheel also has a nasty scar. The wheel on the spare tire is factory new. I'll just have the alignment shop swap the wheels while I'm there.
Also, what is it with me and wheels, lately?
From the looks of it, she scrubbed the curb and didn't roll over it. Hit kind of hard as evidenced by the brake dust.
Checked the air pressure; was 4psi under my set point. All other tires measured the same -4psi. After adjusting all tire pressures back to 32psi (ambient temp as ~50F), I took it for a test drive, in town and on the interstate.
No weird vibes and the car tracked straight. The steering wheel had a very slight turn to the right (I don't know if it was like this before or not; one tends not to notice these things until something like this happens. I need to take it in next week to have the alignment and the tire checked for separation (I doubt there's any).
In the mean time, I'll get out the dial indicator and check the wheel TIR.
The wheel also has a nasty scar. The wheel on the spare tire is factory new. I'll just have the alignment shop swap the wheels while I'm there.
Burning the midnight oil.
Would you buy this, or a 2012 Scion xB?
Would you buy this, or a 2012 Scion xB?
Stripped everything out getting ready for vinyl. This is the easy part... splitting up the queen bed and building twins will the be hard part of this revamp.
We're supposed to maybe finally get some substantial snow so I decided to chain up the tractor.
Everyone is seemingly panicked about a snow forecast. In Colorado. In January. I just don't understand people's penchant for unnecessary fear and anxiety.
I feel like it snows every winter here, but maybe I'm just remembering my entire life incorrectly.....
Everyone is seemingly panicked about a snow forecast. In Colorado. In January. I just don't understand people's penchant for unnecessary fear and anxiety.
I feel like it snows every winter here, but maybe I'm just remembering my entire life incorrectly.....
No photos from today, hauled one of our Hereford cows over to a vet about 40 miles away. She hadn’t been wanting to put weight on her left rear foot for a couple days. They put her in the squeeze and laid her over to find a large corn between the two halves of the hoof. They numbed the hoof and removed the mass. I’ll remove the bandage Monday and see how it’s healing but for now she’s back with the rest of the herd. She’ll be back to normal in a few days as long as we can keep the wound healing up.
Had my 28th birthday dinner tonight.
Had my 28th birthday dinner tonight.
Wrapping up this on-going job with my co-workers 2008 F150 RCSB 4.6L V8. All new brakes, intake manifold rear coolant barb properly plugged and an oil+filter change at ~170,000mi.
Old rear rotors.
Pads about ready to go. I recommended a rear brake job after doing the fronts couple months ago and noted the thin rear pads after doing a brake fluid replacement. Getting the piston boot to retract properly was a PITA. A tip I read was to use the angled part of a pick tool and get it under the lip of the boot while pushing the piston in to remove the trapped air under the boot.
Looks gnarly to reuse the rotor. I've always done rotor replacements, not worth the time to shave or go over em with an emery cloth.
New Centric rotors and Akebono pads/abutment clips installed, along with new rubber boots. One boot was torn so it was a trip to the parts store sigh. Since the kit came with 4 new boots now I'm obligated to change 3 still good boots and the torn one.
Slide pins greased with Permatex 'Orange' Xtreme Silicone grease.
Also adjusted the drum in hat parking brake shoes. Adjusted it to give it a 'touch' of drag when turning the rotor one revolution. Gives it a reaffirming parking brake pedal without worrying about bottoming out.
Also replaced the rubber cap with a silicone cap on the back of the Dorman replacement intake manifold. There is a 3/4" barb for the heater hose connection in certain applications. Dorman's implementation is to cap the barb with a rubber cap and a wire clamp. Replaced the wire clamp with a hose clamp prior to installing the manifold. Four months later my coworker told me it was rapidly losing coolant and I suspected it was the cap. My experience with rubber caps in h/c bypasses is they shortly fail. Hopefully the silicone cap is a good long-term solution.
Then finished the day with an oil change.
Later in the day, I remember he also told me that the windshield washer pump wasn't working and one of the washer nozzles was clogged., He was on his way to grab his truck and just remembered I should've grabbed a pump this morning, best I could do is backfeed compressed air through the hoses and nozzles to clear any blockages. Since the pump is easily accessible from the engine bay, I told him that autozone has one in stock and can be easily swapped.
Old rear rotors.
Pads about ready to go. I recommended a rear brake job after doing the fronts couple months ago and noted the thin rear pads after doing a brake fluid replacement. Getting the piston boot to retract properly was a PITA. A tip I read was to use the angled part of a pick tool and get it under the lip of the boot while pushing the piston in to remove the trapped air under the boot.
Looks gnarly to reuse the rotor. I've always done rotor replacements, not worth the time to shave or go over em with an emery cloth.
New Centric rotors and Akebono pads/abutment clips installed, along with new rubber boots. One boot was torn so it was a trip to the parts store sigh. Since the kit came with 4 new boots now I'm obligated to change 3 still good boots and the torn one.
Slide pins greased with Permatex 'Orange' Xtreme Silicone grease.
Also adjusted the drum in hat parking brake shoes. Adjusted it to give it a 'touch' of drag when turning the rotor one revolution. Gives it a reaffirming parking brake pedal without worrying about bottoming out.
Also replaced the rubber cap with a silicone cap on the back of the Dorman replacement intake manifold. There is a 3/4" barb for the heater hose connection in certain applications. Dorman's implementation is to cap the barb with a rubber cap and a wire clamp. Replaced the wire clamp with a hose clamp prior to installing the manifold. Four months later my coworker told me it was rapidly losing coolant and I suspected it was the cap. My experience with rubber caps in h/c bypasses is they shortly fail. Hopefully the silicone cap is a good long-term solution.
Then finished the day with an oil change.
Later in the day, I remember he also told me that the windshield washer pump wasn't working and one of the washer nozzles was clogged., He was on his way to grab his truck and just remembered I should've grabbed a pump this morning, best I could do is backfeed compressed air through the hoses and nozzles to clear any blockages. Since the pump is easily accessible from the engine bay, I told him that autozone has one in stock and can be easily swapped.
Last edited:
Installed a rebuilt Honda starter in my 2005 CR-V. New Honda PCV valve and intake manifold gaskets. Replaced thermostat and housing, along with lower rad hose. New Napa Asian blue coolant.
Next job is front sway bar links
310,900km
Next job is front sway bar links
310,900km
FIL 2008 Camry V6.
First A/T pan drop and filter replacement at 153K. Not sure if it was worth the expense or the hassle - magnets had minimal debris. The paper filter was also in good condition. I also performed a fluid exchange, used almost 9 qt total.
A/T was previously flushed by me at 60K and around 90K.
First A/T pan drop and filter replacement at 153K. Not sure if it was worth the expense or the hassle - magnets had minimal debris. The paper filter was also in good condition. I also performed a fluid exchange, used almost 9 qt total.
A/T was previously flushed by me at 60K and around 90K.
Cousin’s 03 Accord 2.4, part two of its 120K service.
Brake Fluid Exchange, 12V Battery and transmission drain and refill.
Filters and wiper inserts were marginal but declined.
Pass Front Door Lock Actuator are on the list too.
Brake Fluid Exchange, 12V Battery and transmission drain and refill.
Filters and wiper inserts were marginal but declined.
Pass Front Door Lock Actuator are on the list too.
My project Mini progresses.
I removed the front bumper cover and am on the last leg of removing the front structure of bumper, radiator support, etc. Next is the AC condenser and radiator. I need to carefully put the condenser aside, drain the coolant and remove the radiator. Once that’s out, I can gain access to the turbocharger assembly and remove it. Then the head can be removed.
I’m replacing the head with a reman for not a tiny amount of cash, but it is required after inspection. Light scoring on the cam journal in a couple of area, and likely needs new valve stem seals. The scratches condemned this head to a core going back to the seller of my reman head.
Which means I’m removing the oil pan to check it for any chain guide material or anything else. So this timing chain check snowballed into a head replacement and all that goes with it. I’m putting a new oil pan on as the existing one is nicked and rusted. And since I have access I’m changing the starter as it had a couple of hiccups when it was last running.
Tomorrow I’ll have the new head and I’ll have the old one off and packed for shipping.
I removed the front bumper cover and am on the last leg of removing the front structure of bumper, radiator support, etc. Next is the AC condenser and radiator. I need to carefully put the condenser aside, drain the coolant and remove the radiator. Once that’s out, I can gain access to the turbocharger assembly and remove it. Then the head can be removed.
I’m replacing the head with a reman for not a tiny amount of cash, but it is required after inspection. Light scoring on the cam journal in a couple of area, and likely needs new valve stem seals. The scratches condemned this head to a core going back to the seller of my reman head.
Which means I’m removing the oil pan to check it for any chain guide material or anything else. So this timing chain check snowballed into a head replacement and all that goes with it. I’m putting a new oil pan on as the existing one is nicked and rusted. And since I have access I’m changing the starter as it had a couple of hiccups when it was last running.
Tomorrow I’ll have the new head and I’ll have the old one off and packed for shipping.
Finished up the 6.0L build yesterday.
New LS2/LS3 timing cover, New Balancer, Plugged the AFM relief valve in the oil pan, New oil pick-up tube, Rocker trunnion upgrade installed.
Checked lifter preload & it's at .062", New updated GM valve covers, Delco spark plugs, ARP exhaust manifold bolts & some ceramic coated manifolds that I traded some junky headers for.
On the fence about installing the manifold heat shields.
New LS2/LS3 timing cover, New Balancer, Plugged the AFM relief valve in the oil pan, New oil pick-up tube, Rocker trunnion upgrade installed.
Checked lifter preload & it's at .062", New updated GM valve covers, Delco spark plugs, ARP exhaust manifold bolts & some ceramic coated manifolds that I traded some junky headers for.
On the fence about installing the manifold heat shields.
Last edited:
